Mora questions

[Chris Larrikin]

Hello all!

I have recently started whittling as a way of relaxing at night while the kids sleep. I started out just using a Mora Classic #2 but have just decided to upgrade so bought a couple laminated steel wood carving knives and a Classic Original #1. These are my first laminated Moras and I have a couple of questions:

I have read that Mora's laminated steel chips/micro-chips easily. I have previously used a micro-bevel to prevent chipping on other knives. In your experience does this work with laminated Moras?

Also, in your experience does adding a micro-bevel to a scandi noticeably detract from cutting performance? If so, how much difference has it made for you?

Finally, do you have any other tips or advice about these excellent little knives?

As an aside, I also bought a 511. Now I understand why people like it so much

Cheers

 

[calvinw]

I don't have answers to your questions, but I have a recommendation. I've whittled with a Classic before. Although the handle is comfortable, the knife is just too long for whittling. It gets too tiring trying to bear down after a while.

Mora makes whittling-specific knives with short blades, like the Mora 120. You should try one of those. (They do use laminated steel.)


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[Chris Larrikin]

I don't have answers to your questions, but I have a recommendation. I've whittled with a Classic before. Although the handle is comfortable, the knife is just too long for whittling. It gets too tiring trying to bear down after a while.

Mora makes whittling-specific knives with short blades, like the Mora 120. You should try one of those. (They do use laminated steel.)


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My new Mora 120 and 122 arrived yesterday
You're absolutely right; the classic was just a bit long and it was especially awkward for some cuts. That may also be due to my lack of competence the new scar on my thumb supports that last theory...

 

[Chris Larrikin]

So a few days in and my appreciation of Moras has grown even more. I have been blown away by how effective the 120 and 122 are. It's so easy to make precise clean cuts in wood with these. They have started micro chipping just a touch. Now to decide whether a zero Scandi sharpen or a micro bevel are better. As always, information and advice are appreciated (but I also realise this is almost a dead thread lol)

 

[Dangerously]

Now to decide whether a zero Scandi sharpen or a micro bevel are better.

Clearly, you must try both and tell us the result. You can see if you can detect a performance difference or a retention difference.

For science!

My prediction: with informal testing procedures, no substantial difference will be detectable consistently. Therefore, you can use whichever grind you prefer maintaining. Personally, I find a microbevel easier to maintain because I touch up knives far too often, and I wouldn't want to be grinding the whole scandi bevel each time.

 

[Chris Larrikin]

Clearly, you must try both and tell us the result. You can see if you can detect a performance difference or a retention difference.

For science!

My prediction: with informal testing procedures, no substantial difference will be detectable consistently. Therefore, you can use whichever grind you prefer maintaining. Personally, I find a microbevel easier to maintain because I touch up knives far too often, and I wouldn't want to be grinding the whole scandi bevel each time.

While I respect a spirit of scientific exploration, I suspect that given my inexperience with carving etc I probably won't notice a great difference to performance, but I am hesitant to do it if it won't solve the problem.

Having said that, I think I am probably second-guessing my own knowledge (ie that a microbevel reinforces the edge and will prevent chipping) and will probably microbevel.