"Moran Edge"

T

tejas7

Joined
Sep 14, 1999
Messages
92
I produce my blades on a Wilton Square Wheel Grinder. Generally I use a flat V grind utilizing the platen and work rest. My question is this: How do you grind a blade with a convex or "Moran Edge". I am guessing that it would have to be done using the "slack portion" of the belt. I read that this provides a superior dege geometry for many cutting task. Does anyone use this technique. Any comments on how this grind would perform over a flat grind all other things being equal???
 
I use a wilton also. I took the rollers off the flat platen and made a holder that puts the
rollers about 5.5 inches apart. I grind like I flat grind and get a convex from spine to
edge. I use a tight slack belt .Be careful useing this set up after H/T ‘cause your grinder has a high belt speed and will burn your edge1

Hope I am of some use!
Doug
 
I use the convex grind on all of my moose hunters because dressing a moose is very rough on a knife with all the prying and twisting that goes on. I just don't want to give up edge strength in such a heavy duty application.

You can do a convex grind on the contact wheel by rocking the blade while grinding, it really does not take much practice.



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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
You'll end up with a convex grind if you screw up a flatgrind. I've done it a few times. If you want a GOOD convex grind, grind the bevels by pulling the blade vertically down the contact wheel, rotating slightly each pass, you'll get the general profile, then slack grind to dress it up. Careful with the slack grinding, though. There isn't much you can do with a grinder that's more dangerous unless you're trying to do your nails.

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Oz

"When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."
- Henry J. Kaiser

[This message has been edited by Osbourn (edited 16 September 1999).]
 
i've done convex grinding buy mistake, just a few months ago i found out it was good! i hated the platen so i tookit off to grind. only thing is it's harder to finish, and imposible to get a nice finish on a convex grind using the grinder. i'm now doing flat grinds, i think they look cooler. i have two bowies appox. the same length, and i'm giving one away to a friend who is a hunter(if you call shooting squarrels off your roof hunting) i'll see how they perfore and get back to you.
 
I also use a square wheel for grinding. Heres what I have done. First I took 2" off the bottom of the flat platen. And since the belt does not track well to the left (so that you can get a good plunge cut) I created different "bolt on" platens out of 440C. I simply drilled and tapped two 10-24 holes at the top of a 1/4 X 2" wide piece of 440, and used socket head screws to hold it on the origonal platen from the back. Bevel the top and bottom for smooth belt transition, harden, and off you go. By making different length platens you can create a 2" gap for slack belt grinding between the bottom of the platen and the lower (3") wheel. By adjusting belt tension, and applied pressure, you have the flexibility to create whatever degree of convex you desire.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey

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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"


 
I like Ed's way, I wish I had thought of it. To solve the left side tracking problem, I Milled away a porsion of the left side of the platen so about 2 " of it are only 2 " wide. Now I can plunge from both sides. I may copy Ed's idea. I aways say, "If you are going to steal an idea, steal a good one!"

Doug
 
the question is about the MORAN EDGE...not about convex grinds...but the edge....yes, just use a slack belt...you can sharpen your knife on the slack portion above the rubber wheel and not go to all the trouble described above...what it really does is make an appleseed shaped edge which is thicker right behind the edge and therefore stronger....especially for heavy duty tasks..
if you do it edge into the belt...you get a lot less of a burr...but i think the burr is good/ so i have the edge towards me when i give it this type of edge.......polish it off with a felt wheel first and then a hard sewn with green chrome
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http://www.mayoknives.com




[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 17 September 1999).]
 
Now that you have talked about convex grind...
I like to put it on large blades but have never been able to really control what I was doing. the problems I found were
1) the belt starts grinding the to of the blade, leaving the middle untouched.
2) the edge gets too thin and if I change the blade position to get it doesn´t get that continuous convex line to the edge.
I thogh it could be my grinder but I just bough a neuw one (kalamazoo 2x48) and it keeps happening.
Does anyone have any ideas on what is happening and how can I correct it?

Ivan Campos
 
I would use an appleseed edge also. The morans I have seen have a semi flat into a heavy appleseed edge. The grind is not a convex grind . Its more of a saber grind..
This can be done with a very tight belt for the flat them a loose belt for the edge..
Im sure there are many ways to skin this cat..

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Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!




 
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