More Cardboard Wheel Advice Please

[armilite]

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies to my earlier post. I got a 6" buffer at Harbor Freight today. It work great with a speed control that I have. Go from 3600 rpm to a dead stop with it. Just have to order my wheels now. Steve Bottorff is pushing a kit from Razor Edge, Or Razor Sharp, Something like that. Anybody know anything about this company? I think their 6' wheel kit is about 35.00 or 40.00 dollars.

Now for the hard part.
Anybody here want to tell me how I should go about using this method so I will have some what of a success at it or maybe point me in the direction where I can get the knowledge

I know there will be a learning curve but I hope it isn't great.

Thanks in Advance,
armilite

 

[SteelSlaver]

You could have kept the thread together.

I have the 8" wheels from Grizzly. I use them like this.

First you use the gritted wheel. I wear an optivisor (magnifying lense on head band) and have a light positioned over the wheel. Before I start the wheel I hold the blade against the front of the wheel edge down. I am looking from above and look for the angle that will but the edge on the wheel to achieve near a 20 degree edge. Then I start the grinder and hit briefly with a piece of wax provided with the kit. I am not sure what this does, but, the system works so go with it. Then I carefully place the blade against the wheel starting where the edge begins near the handle and at the previously determined angle and smoothly move towards the point, holding the angle even and following any curve, I remove the point from the wheel when it is half way across, just llike when i grind. You may want to practice this before you actually turn the wheel on. If the blade is very dull or I am establishing the actual edge I may make up to 4 passes on the side before turning the knife around and doing the otherd side. Keep the side s even no matter. Once you start to get near a real edge you will notice a fine feathery piece of metal on the edge of the portions of the blade. Keep working the knife untill you have that on the complete edge. If the knife has some blade length and one portion sharpens before the rest I will consentrate on the "dull" portions but, continue to make passes into the sharp areas to keep the edge profile uniform. Once the fine fine feather appears on the entire edge I will move to the rouge wheel. On mine it is slotted and I hit it with some of the white rouge that came with the wheels. Then holding the edge down at the same angle used on the other wheel I will make the same passes untill the feather is gone and the bevels from the other wheel are polished. This shold give you a very sharp edge. It should take the hair right off your arm. It will not be as good as I can do with my Lansky jig and stones as I will not have as perfectly flat uniform bevels. If I did a decent job with the wheels I can make short work of trueing it up with the Lansky and going all the way to the super fine stone before I use my strop.

The gritted wheel--Mine can be regritted by smoothing the wheel and then uniformily coating with elmers wood glue. Then with a piece of paper under the whell sprinkle the grit on the wheel as you slowly turn by hand untill the wheel is completely covered . The grit that falls on the paper is reclaimed for the next regrit, then let dry for 24 hours and after dry run a flat piece of scrap on it for a few second to smooth up and remove high spots.