More K390, please

JD Spydo said:
Ashamed to say that I haven't gotten a Spyder with K390 as of yet. But it's high on my list to get done very soon. I'm trying to land another set of the C-60 Ayoob Sprint Run with CRUWEAR which was just released. Spyderco just continues to spoil us and it's like I'm a kid in a Russell Stover candy store. I can't wait to try K390 and CRUWEAR side by side.

There is one past Spyderco model that I think would be perfect with K390 from all I've heard about this premium blade steel. I'm speaking of the C-54 big Calypso model ( the original first model of the Calypso models). As good as that knife performs in VG-10 I am extremely anxious to see what the C-54 Calypso would be like with K390.

Another older model that would be great with that steel would be the old, disco'd ROOKIE model. Two Spyderco models that I would like to see with newer/better blade steel.
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The Police 4 has changed my outlook on knives, I would highly recommend that knife, serrated K390.
What made me love the steel was my K390 Dragonfly Wharncliffe, it's just awesome, and easy to touch up.
 
I'll cast another vote for the Native line.

(Multiple) Native 5 lightweights have punched their way into my top-three most used, loved and carried knives over the past year and change now, so that iteration in particular would see another multi-purchase from me in K390, especially.

The upcoming Chief lightweight would be my vote-worthy runner-up, as well.
 
sharp_edge said:
Military in K390 please. And plain (satin) would be perfectly fine with me, actually preferred. Peel ply CF handle would be great but plain G10 should be fine too.
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With G-10 or preferably the canvas Micarta grip panels.
 
Hashishiin said:
The Police 4 has changed my outlook on knives, I would highly recommend that knife, serrated K390.
What made me love the steel was my K390 Dragonfly Wharncliffe, it's just awesome, and easy to touch up.
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A question - how do you sharpen the serrated part. For serrated kitchen knifes, I sharpen them like plain blades, but how do you get the inside of the serrations sharp again? I have a nice steel to sharpen them one at a time, but I have hand tremors and can't keep a steady angle, that's why I changed to a Spyderco Tri-Angle sharpener; if I do my part even remotely well, I end up with a sharp blade.

Ideas, gadgets, etc.?
 
Somehow I lost my K390 Endura, the first Spyderco knife I'd bought. That was months ago, and I'm still upset about it. My other K390 blade, a Dragonfly, is a brilliant knife (I'd have been better off with a Delica due to the hand tremors I've described. Still, I don't care for the lightweight FRN scales except for tiny knives, I'd much rather have something like the G-10 or canvas micarta I mentioned in an earlier post. A Military, with four positions for clips, and a canvas micarta set of scales? Sign me up for the first one! I'd even take a Police Model with the same stipulations. I don't mind a heavy knife, I already carry a fairly heavy pistol.
 
Thorgrim said:
A question - how do you sharpen the serrated part. For serrated kitchen knifes, I sharpen them like plain blades, but how do you get the inside of the serrations sharp again? I have a nice steel to sharpen them one at a time, but I have hand tremors and can't keep a steady angle, that's why I changed to a Spyderco Tri-Angle sharpener; if I do my part even remotely well, I end up with a sharp blade.

Ideas, gadgets, etc.?
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Use just the corners of the triangle SharpMaker stones with very light pressure. Try to go more down than across the rod, and the corner will move in and out of the scallops. I alternate heel to tip with tip to heel strokes to ensure I get both sides of each scallop. Another often overlooked factor is that serrations are ground parallel. They do not follow the curve of the blade. When you start, raise or lower the tip of the blade until the corner of the stone fits exactly into a small scallop, then hold that front to back alignment (the pitch of pitch, roll and yaw) throughout each stroke.

Serrations are pretty much the only thing I use my SharpMaker for. I do ten to twenty passes on the front side and tilt the blade flat against the stone for a couple of passes on the back side to knock off any burr.
 
Personally I would love to see the Lil’ Native in K390 steel. I am very happy with the blade shape and size on the Lil’ Native so please don’t change that. Perhaps we can get g-10 scales in some color other than black, blue or purple would look good. A dark Burgundy red color would look great. How about creating a sprint run of the upcoming lightweight model using the dark blue FRN handle? I could really get behind that! I know the Compression lock version has been getting all of the attention but the back-lock version is one great and solidly built knife.
 
yablanowitz said:
Use just the corners of the triangle SharpMaker stones with very light pressure. Try to go more down than across the rod, and the corner will move in and out of the scallops. I alternate heel to tip with tip to heel strokes to ensure I get both sides of each scallop. Another often overlooked factor is that serrations are ground parallel. They do not follow the curve of the blade. When you start, raise or lower the tip of the blade until the corner of the stone fits exactly into a small scallop, then hold that front to back alignment (the pitch of pitch, roll and yaw) throughout each stroke.

Serrations are pretty much the only thing I use my SharpMaker for. I do ten to twenty passes on the front side and tilt the blade flat against the stone for a couple of passes on the back side to knock off any burr.
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Thank you for your help! I already bought a DMT tapered diamond steel before I found this forum, now I know how to use it. I'm kind of invested in my Spyderco Tri-Angle sharpener, as I've bought the diamond steels and the ultrafine sticks, which works with my essential tremors. I wonder how well a Sharpmaker would work for someone like me with shaky hands (some days, the tremors vary from hour to hour, day to day). Right now the Tri-Angle sharpener helps me keep a consistent angle, will the Sharpmaker do that, too?

Edit: I should mention that the only serrated blade I carry is a Matriarch only if I encounter one of those pesky "No Guns" signs. I've had enough bad things happen to me (if you include being carjacked and abducted, having to defend my home and being stalked remotely by some inmate of the Florida prison system that I don't know as being "bad things"). I'm always armed whether I'm out or at home unless there are restrictions. The Matriarch is a comfort when I can't carry a handgun, as I have some training in knife-fighting, enough to make me dread the idea of it. When you go at each other with rigid (blunt) "blades" with chalked edges, you inevitably find that you've been "cut" more than once that you didn't notice. I dread the thought of that situation with real blades, about the best you can do beyond training is to be make certain your knife is sharp.

I'd be open to buying one of the Yojimbo models in K390 or S90V ... maybe even Cruwear if that's the first to be offered. I've been happy with the latter, but I like the first two more.
 
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