More Sharpmaker questions

Yno

Yno

Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
22
I have run a couple of blades over my new Sharpmaker, and using the magic marker technique, I find I am not quite getting the right angle. So I ordered a set of diamond triangles. My main questions concern the use of this set. I have knives of 420, D2, and S30V. Given the fact that these are out of the box knives with no use yet, how long will it take on the diamond triangles to get to the 30 degree angle I am looking for? I guess I am re-profiling the blade, although I don't think it is a major amount of metal removal. Is the technique the same as for the rods that come with the Sharpmaker, ie. alternating strokes on the corners and then on the flats?

Secondly, assuming I get to a satisfactory 30 degree sharpness, and assuming light but normal usage of the knives, should I leave the blade at this angle, or put on a secondary bevel on the 40 degree setting? I certainly don't mind spending time touching up the blades, but I don't want to have an edge that is so delicate that I have to "start from scratch" every time I pull it out of the sheath.

Thanks for the assistance to a newbie to the field.
 
I would use the wider angle if you want a knife that is OK for day to day use and the thinner angle for scalpel sharpness. The working edge will last longer at a slightly less sharp edge but will still be fine for utility tasks. As far as time goes it depends on pressure of your draw and other factors but in regards to the steel they should sharpen in this order (fastes sharpen first) 420, D2, S30V. The 420 is regarded as a lower end steel and the others have more wear resistance thus hold an edge longer and take longer to sharpen.
Hope this helps- with this forum you won't be a newbie for long!!!
 
Use a benchstone to set the back bevel, the use the S/M for the primary edge. The S/M diamonds will not cut like you are needing, and the normal S/M stones are not intended for that level of cutting.

I use a DMT DiaSharp coarse, followed by an Arkansas Hard and create a 20-25 degree back bevel, then I use the 30 degree setting on the S/M (medium, fine, and ultra-fine rods) for the primary micro bevel, followed by a strop loaded with CrO.

Regardless of the steel, the S/M rods are simply not intended for significant steel removal, but they do a fabulous job of putting that primary edge (micro bevel) on a blade.
 
I'm a big Edge Pro fan for the simple reason that you have almost infinite angles to work with. That being said, I do own a Sharpmaker as well and just recently purchased the Diamond Rods to go with it.

My thought would be to reprofile your knives to the 30 degree setting using the diamond rods. I would NOT alternate strokes as you need to develop a burr edge to know that you have gotten to the edge. I would start with 10 strops on one side and check for a burr. I would then do 10 strops on the other side and check for a burr, You may need to do 40 or 50 until you get that burr or "wire edge".

At that point, I would then move to the 40 degree setting and start with the dark rods to cut a primary edge. I do not think that you will need the diamond rods as you are removing so little metal from the new edge. Alternate strokes on the dark rods and make sure that you are removing the burr. Work your way through the white fine or even the UF stones if you have them.

You now have a polished 40 degree (inclusive) edge with built in relief that can simply be touched up occassionally on the whites set at 40 degrees.

You could also do the same as above but keeping everything at 30 degrees. Technically a "sharper" edge but probably a little more fragile.
 
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