troutfisher13111
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2006
- Messages
- 2,469
North, good stuff! I enjoy hearing about Mors and his methods.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Mors Kochanski Rifle?
- Thread starter BASIC
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2007
- Messages
- 1,236
Wow, really interesting read in this thread! Thanks a lot, always interesting to hear his thoughts on survival.
man thanks for sharing widsdom
My father is grown up in Bosnia mountains with bitter winters down to -30 celsius wearing wool socks and self made pig skin sandals so im familiar with concept.
What amaze me most about Mors is his knife philosophy and there is allso lots of similarities with Bosnia highlanders.
I have copy of "Buschcraft" and read lot of articles and posts about his knife skills but can you ,please, gave us some insights maybe pics or video about splitting logs,fellig trees or some thing like that?
Its rare oportunity for me to learn about Morss insane knifing chores.
My father is grown up in Bosnia mountains with bitter winters down to -30 celsius wearing wool socks and self made pig skin sandals so im familiar with concept.
What amaze me most about Mors is his knife philosophy and there is allso lots of similarities with Bosnia highlanders.
I have copy of "Buschcraft" and read lot of articles and posts about his knife skills but can you ,please, gave us some insights maybe pics or video about splitting logs,fellig trees or some thing like that?
Its rare oportunity for me to learn about Morss insane knifing chores.
Thanks all. I have no video or pictures I am afraid description will have to do. I do have some Mors DVD's but don't want to mess with his copyright.
A) To split logs with a knife you need a good baton and a scandi edged knife works the best for the chore.
Step 1.... Placing the knife about 1/8" in from the edge of the log cut a wedge about 2-3" wide and 6-10" long.
Step 2... Take your wedges and find a crack or check in the log... put the knife away and using the wedges and the baton break open the log. 3 Wedges will usually do it.
Step 3... Repeat quartering the log as many times as you would like.
NOTE..if the log is crack free use your knife and the baton to make one.
Practice using your 10.00 Mora and when you have it mastered use your good knife or knives.
B. Cutting down trees with a knife.
Method 1... If the tree is wrist size or less. Grab it and bend it near the base...when you have a good angle cut down into the base, you will be angling into the grain and the knife will cut deep and the tension will open it up. With a sharp scandi edge this reall works.
Method 2.. For trees up to 6" or so. Take a baton and drive your knife point first into a tree at a bit of an angle. When it is in a couple of inches pry it back towards you sheering the fibers with the knife edge. Think can opener action. Keep repeating working around the tree. Fantastic...you can have a 4-6" tree down in the time your buddy is looking for his axe. Try to look innocent and don't share the trick. People will think you have some kind of crazy ninja skills!
I truthfully seldom travel without a good axe but it's nice to know that with just a knife I am able to build about any shelter that I could want short of a log cabin.
One more note about knives... one of the favourite pastimes of returning Kochanski students is to watch first timers bring out their knife hardware. We start doing a knife skills component making things out of sticks. It might take a minute or an hour but eventually the 300.00-600.00 super wackers are put away away and the students pick up a mora to do the bulk of their work.
I haven't had my Camp Tramp out of the sheath for many years now.
A) To split logs with a knife you need a good baton and a scandi edged knife works the best for the chore.
Step 1.... Placing the knife about 1/8" in from the edge of the log cut a wedge about 2-3" wide and 6-10" long.
Step 2... Take your wedges and find a crack or check in the log... put the knife away and using the wedges and the baton break open the log. 3 Wedges will usually do it.
Step 3... Repeat quartering the log as many times as you would like.
NOTE..if the log is crack free use your knife and the baton to make one.
Practice using your 10.00 Mora and when you have it mastered use your good knife or knives.
B. Cutting down trees with a knife.
Method 1... If the tree is wrist size or less. Grab it and bend it near the base...when you have a good angle cut down into the base, you will be angling into the grain and the knife will cut deep and the tension will open it up. With a sharp scandi edge this reall works.
Method 2.. For trees up to 6" or so. Take a baton and drive your knife point first into a tree at a bit of an angle. When it is in a couple of inches pry it back towards you sheering the fibers with the knife edge. Think can opener action. Keep repeating working around the tree. Fantastic...you can have a 4-6" tree down in the time your buddy is looking for his axe. Try to look innocent and don't share the trick. People will think you have some kind of crazy ninja skills!
I truthfully seldom travel without a good axe but it's nice to know that with just a knife I am able to build about any shelter that I could want short of a log cabin.
One more note about knives... one of the favourite pastimes of returning Kochanski students is to watch first timers bring out their knife hardware. We start doing a knife skills component making things out of sticks. It might take a minute or an hour but eventually the 300.00-600.00 super wackers are put away away and the students pick up a mora to do the bulk of their work.
I haven't had my Camp Tramp out of the sheath for many years now.
Here is a Kochanski inspired kit I carry with a few changes. I now cary some parachute cloth and have replaced the cord with genuine prachute cord. The cord, poly, parachute cloth and space blankets make a super shelter or help with the finishing touches on a snow shelter. At times I substitute a sil nylon tarp for the low techstuff. I also pack two nesting swedish cups that can work as cups or bowls.
The oxo and tea aren't really neccessary but in one bad skidoo stuck in the slush incident with my then two year old daughter I found a bit of food and comfort helped her morale while I got us unstuck.
The most important element might be the pot. In the winter a 6-9 cup pot can keep you and the group hydrated. Smaller pots aren't much fun to melt snow in.
I also carry extra clothing and a bivy bag with mosquito netting or a bug net(s) in the summer. The bugs up here could clearly kill you!
Around my neck is a Garcia Skookum Bush Tool scandi knife and a metal match.
If I have proper clothing and am uninjured I should be ok. On a long trip I take good camping gear and it makes things a lot easier. My 8" down sleeping bag with dryloft cover is a lot more comfortable than a down coat and wool pants!
The oxo and tea aren't really neccessary but in one bad skidoo stuck in the slush incident with my then two year old daughter I found a bit of food and comfort helped her morale while I got us unstuck.
The most important element might be the pot. In the winter a 6-9 cup pot can keep you and the group hydrated. Smaller pots aren't much fun to melt snow in.
I also carry extra clothing and a bivy bag with mosquito netting or a bug net(s) in the summer. The bugs up here could clearly kill you!
Around my neck is a Garcia Skookum Bush Tool scandi knife and a metal match.
If I have proper clothing and am uninjured I should be ok. On a long trip I take good camping gear and it makes things a lot easier. My 8" down sleeping bag with dryloft cover is a lot more comfortable than a down coat and wool pants!
Cody Lundin,in one of his interviews,admited then Mors wear him down physicaly,he couldnt keep step wit him and Mors was in his fifties(and Cody look tuff to me).
Only Mors video I saw is" making survival bow" on youtube and you can see age when he walk but when work with knife and lecturing he look kinda hyperactive.
And North61 you just giving us a great christmas present.
Only Mors video I saw is" making survival bow" on youtube and you can see age when he walk but when work with knife and lecturing he look kinda hyperactive.
And North61 you just giving us a great christmas present.
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2007
- Messages
- 695
Very good post, lots of info. Thank you for sharing!
Since we're talking about clothing, what kind of shell layer would be recommanded for that kind of environnment? I hear wind breaker cotton is OK for dry cold.
Well at the price of being redundant Mors is not a big gear hound.
The question he asks is...will your clothing allow you to survive for four days without a fire in the environment you will be in?
In -18C and lower the outer layer must pass water vapour as frost will accumulate in the clothing. In this case breathability is more important than water resistance. Mors seems to favour military poly/nylon/ cotton blends at these temps because they do the trick and are cheap.
Mors suggests an insulating layer of 3cm in still air and 4cm in wind when active. 8-10cm will be needed when inactive at cold weather which is where the double stuffed down jacket comes in.
After 4 days the accumulation of moisture from sweat will be so great that you will need a means of making a fire to dry out your clothing.
At over -18 frost in the clothing is less of an issue and a more water proofed outer shell can be useful in case of damp snow or freezing rain. Mors seems to favour real raingear and take it off when not needed as opposed to fancy membrane technology. Doubt if he has spent more than 50.00 for an outdoors garment in his life!
In my own humble opinion (This is not from Mors) cotton is great for a cold weather shell for short trips or when hot tent camping or using campfires for warming. In a non-fire environment like North or Over the treeline or travelling fast over the days cotton will slowly get iced up as it soaks in vapour and become less effective over time. I prefer a synthetic or synthetic cotton blend for this reason. Just watch out for spark holes!
The question he asks is...will your clothing allow you to survive for four days without a fire in the environment you will be in?
In -18C and lower the outer layer must pass water vapour as frost will accumulate in the clothing. In this case breathability is more important than water resistance. Mors seems to favour military poly/nylon/ cotton blends at these temps because they do the trick and are cheap.
Mors suggests an insulating layer of 3cm in still air and 4cm in wind when active. 8-10cm will be needed when inactive at cold weather which is where the double stuffed down jacket comes in.
After 4 days the accumulation of moisture from sweat will be so great that you will need a means of making a fire to dry out your clothing.
At over -18 frost in the clothing is less of an issue and a more water proofed outer shell can be useful in case of damp snow or freezing rain. Mors seems to favour real raingear and take it off when not needed as opposed to fancy membrane technology. Doubt if he has spent more than 50.00 for an outdoors garment in his life!
In my own humble opinion (This is not from Mors) cotton is great for a cold weather shell for short trips or when hot tent camping or using campfires for warming. In a non-fire environment like North or Over the treeline or travelling fast over the days cotton will slowly get iced up as it soaks in vapour and become less effective over time. I prefer a synthetic or synthetic cotton blend for this reason. Just watch out for spark holes!
Look here for more
http://www.karamat.com/PDF Files/dressing001.pdf
I don't think Mors likes blending his wind and wet layer. This is from observation not anything he wrote. Wind protection is a tightly woven cloth that allows for excellent vapour transmission.
Wet protection is water proof period. You wear it when it's raining and take it off when it isn't.
http://www.karamat.com/PDF Files/dressing001.pdf
I don't think Mors likes blending his wind and wet layer. This is from observation not anything he wrote. Wind protection is a tightly woven cloth that allows for excellent vapour transmission.
Wet protection is water proof period. You wear it when it's raining and take it off when it isn't.