- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Ryan asked me about mortised handles, and I dug up these shots/text from about 4 years ago. While my shop tools have improved, the process is still the same.
Hope this helps Ryan
Back and forth, back and forth between those last few steps, until I get this-
Using a facing mill to mill the micarta slabs flat-
After I get them milled, I like to do some hand-planing on the granite plate to make sure there will be a nearly invisible seam in the handle-
Drawing the tang profile onto the inside of the micarta slab-
Starting to mill out the slot for the tang. I use the mic and check the exact tang thickness. It's 0.190" thick, so I set the mill to take off 0.095"
I get it close with the mill... but like most things in my shop, it comes back to hand-work to get it the way I really want it. Filing that last little bit out-
Checking the fit. BTW- If you're wondering why that hole is in the tang, it's for hanging the blade down into my molten salt bath as part of the heat-treat process. Normally it's only a 1/8" hole, but this one is a bit bigger-
After milling/filing both halves, now I clamp them together loosely with a couple spring clamps to check the fit of the slabs as one piece-
And this notion is taken directly from our local friend Terry Primos. Holding the handle by the end over the concrete floor. This is a tricky spot to find. If the tang slot is too tight of fit it will do this easily, but there will be a seem later as the halves aren't making contact with each other all the way around. Get it too loose, and quite obviously, it wouldn't hold the blade-
Hope this helps Ryan
Back and forth, back and forth between those last few steps, until I get this-
Using a facing mill to mill the micarta slabs flat-
After I get them milled, I like to do some hand-planing on the granite plate to make sure there will be a nearly invisible seam in the handle-
Drawing the tang profile onto the inside of the micarta slab-
Starting to mill out the slot for the tang. I use the mic and check the exact tang thickness. It's 0.190" thick, so I set the mill to take off 0.095"
I get it close with the mill... but like most things in my shop, it comes back to hand-work to get it the way I really want it. Filing that last little bit out-
Checking the fit. BTW- If you're wondering why that hole is in the tang, it's for hanging the blade down into my molten salt bath as part of the heat-treat process. Normally it's only a 1/8" hole, but this one is a bit bigger-
After milling/filing both halves, now I clamp them together loosely with a couple spring clamps to check the fit of the slabs as one piece-
And this notion is taken directly from our local friend Terry Primos. Holding the handle by the end over the concrete floor. This is a tricky spot to find. If the tang slot is too tight of fit it will do this easily, but there will be a seem later as the halves aren't making contact with each other all the way around. Get it too loose, and quite obviously, it wouldn't hold the blade-
..i've always wanted to just whack into something with it....it has a great feeling to the handle...the countours on it are perfect.....it reminds me alot of my john fitch hunter...now that guy can make a serious handle....it has a beautiful paul long sheath it resides in too....ryan
