mortising tangs

Joe Cabaup

Joe Cabaup

Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
216
I have a couple of questions for those that mortise hidden tangs in wood.

Is there any benefit to mortising one half the thickness of the tang in each slab?

Is there any benefit to mortising the whole thickness of the tang in a thick slab and then covering the other side with a thin slab?

I am thinking that if I mortise the entire thickness of the tang (1/8") in the thick side (1/4") and then cover it with the thin slab (1/8") then I am much more precise in the placement of the tang in the handle design and might have a strength benefit on not having the joint of the wood inline with the tang.
 
Jason Magruder said:
It'll look funny.
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If you can see it at all. If the wood grain cooperates and you do a really good job of fitting and finishing the join will be virtually invisible.

I don't think I'm that good, but I've definitely seen work with invisible seams.
 
Except for the seam there is another reason you might not want to mortise it all in one side only.It leaves no strength in the thin slab except the glue joint.If there are several pins,this is controlled.If there is only one (or no) pin ,then the scale could shear off or split partially.This is probably only a minor risk,but it is something to consider.A totally invisible joint is very hard to get perfect in most woods.It is impossible in solid colored materials -ivory,micarta,etc.It is only a few extra minutes to inlet both sides.With the exception of tanto (with a Japanese grind) sheaths,I always do both sides.The Swedish method often uses three pieces,with a sawn out center "U".and two side scales.This is super simple and leaves symmetrical glue lines.It also allows for a contrasting center piece.
SA
 
One thing is the joint won't be centered over the tang.
If you use figured wood you will see the seam. Thats ok as long as there are no gaps. Just shows good workmanship.
TJ
 
bladsmth said:
The Swedish method often uses three pieces,with a sawn out center "U".and two side scales.This is super simple and leaves symmetrical glue lines.It also allows for a contrasting center piece.
SA
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I do like that idea. I might try that instead.

I have been trying to mortise each side but I get frustrated when things don't work out. Then I get mad once I scrap the wood. :mad: I don't know why as I have a full box of cutoff rosewood and maple that I'll probably never use all of.

Is there a good tutorial on how to mortise wood using hand chisels?
 
I find handles easier to put on if I don't cut them in half. I just draw the tang outline on the out side and using a drill about 1/64" bigger than the thickness of the tang I drill out a cavety to slide the tang in. I notch the outside edges of the tang and put industrial metal filled epoxy in the cavety then clamp the blade in place. Once the epoxy hardens the only way the handle is coming off is with a large hammer. Done this way there is really no need for pins but I always put them in for appearence. This method leaves a very clean appearence to the whole handle with no joints to be found. Try it you'll like it.
Good luck
 
Joe, Terry Primos has a great tutorial on his website. For the mortising, I use a dremel moto tool with a cylendrical bit that has teeth on the flat bottom. I have a nifty little dremel accessory that holds the dremel vertically and has a little table that moves up and down to bring your work into contact with the bit. I think they cost about 40-50 bucks. Its not a milling maching, but it works great for morticing tangs. Takes about 5 minutes and no chiseling. :D
Ed
 
happycat said:
Joe, Terry Primos has a great tutorial on his website. For the mortising, I use a dremel moto tool with a cylendrical bit that has teeth on the flat bottom. I have a nifty little dremel accessory that holds the dremel vertically and has a little table that moves up and down to bring your work into contact with the bit. I think they cost about 40-50 bucks. Its not a milling maching, but it works great for morticing tangs. Takes about 5 minutes and no chiseling. :D
Ed
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Do you have a pic showing the base your talking about. I need to get one of those! Do they have them at Sears?
 
blgoode said:
Do you have a pic showing the base your talking about. I need to get one of those! Do they have them at Sears?
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As I remember, they call them the "router base". I picked up mine at home depot.
 
Just went downstairs and looked at it. its called the dremel moto tool drill press modle 210. Took a pic, but that was the last of my battery. sorry.
Ed
 
Inletting both sides is a much cleaner look and what a lot of people will look for,if the seam isnt straight with the tang or crooked (read as handle set at a slight angle) the customer will usually say something.
Doing it with the three pieces of wood is like doing a framed handle with a steel or nickel silver or what ever center sandwiched by two scales.When pinned for strength and not just looks a framed handle is just as strong as any other kind of handle(in my opinion)
You can use any of the Dremel drill press stands that let the head move into the work piece to do this or even your Drill press.A few years ago Roger Green did a tutorial in Blade Magazine,Sorry but the date of it slips my mind and all my back copies are put in storage so I can't look it up.
I have sen 2 different kinds of wood used to make a 3 piece framed style wood handle,and it looked really cool.
Bruce
 
First off Terry should be applauded for taking the time to prepare such an excellent tutorial. I would have been over the moon to have seen something like it in the early days of making. I hope the newbies who come across it in the future appreciate the time and stress Terry has just saved you.

If you don't have a mill you can use your drill press and vice and a 1/4'' router bit to mill out your half mortice. Use your drill press vice to clamp your timber level with your table. Lift you table so that the router bit tip will cut the desired depth. Hold your vice and manually move it around to cut out your desired shape using your drills highest speed. ( yes it is a little scarey ) A side and bottom cutting burr can be used instead of the router bit with the advantage of having a little better controll.

Which ever tool you use dont be tempted to cut your mortice in one go, readjust your table and make a second pass. Hope this helps as well.
 
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