Mortissed vs. Block

[brokenspearpoint]

I'm getting ready to put together the handle on my latest rasp knife and was going to use a mortissed handle type construction since I have some really nice pieces of Yellow Box wood that I want to use. I don't have a particularlly good block to use for the typical hidden tang construction right now and would prefer to use what I have. The rasp "grooves" should produce a very good platform for the epoxy to grip into to prevent shear slippage. Is there any drawback, either in construction or in aesthetics to this type of handle? I would rather not do it if this is viewed as inferior to the full block handle.

 

[galadduin]

A couple minutes ago I've made another mortised tang reed knife. The knives I do have no guards or bolsters. You need to be sure that inside of two slabs have little scratches or drill holes that the bond will be very strong. Also You need at least one pin to hold everything in place, preferably a peened pin or a rivet like a corby or loveless type...

If you flatten the inside parts real good there is a chance that it will be impossible to see the glued pieces, use some of the fine dust of handle material to mix into epoxy you'll use.
Here is a sample of mine reed knives:

As you can see there is no visible glue line...

Emre

 

[R.C.Reichert]

There was a thread on here a while back....I think the general opinion was that a mortised tang was every bit as good as a once-piece wood handle....providing the two slabs were glued and pinned well. I guess even traditional Japanese swords were of the mortised tang type.

 

[Mike Quesenberry]

I dovetail the inside of my mortised handles. When the epoxy sets up it creates a mechanical bond holding the slabs together, just a little something extra that helps me sleep at night.

 

[brokenspearpoint]

Thanks guys for the input and your expertise. Gives me more confidence in producing a product that will be long-lasting.