mosaic pins in handle scales.

sjvincent

sjvincent

Joined
May 28, 2006
Messages
51
Greetings all,

I've very new to making knives. I am on my third one and trying to improve with each effort.

All have been fixed blades. The first one had wooden handles, epoxied with wooden dowels for pins. The second had G-10 scales and brass pins epoxied and peened.

For my third I would like to use mosaic pins with micarta scales and this brings me to my question.

Are mosaic pins only installed with epoxy or are they also peened and sanded down?

Thanks!
Scott
 
Epoxy, file, then hand sand. I install after the scales are shaped and 99% finish sanded. Do this my drilling the holes and installing temp pins for alignment when clamping down, remove them prior to the epoxy curing. Then drill the holes out again after curing. Remember to align the mosaics so they are symmetrical (same orientation) before the epoxy cures.
 
Erik, I'm curious as to why you install the mosaics after the handle is all but finished and after the epoxy set? Just curious. I've always set the pins while epoxying slab handles on, and then shape from there, same as regular pins. I do take care to align the mosaic with the flow of the blade.

--nathan
 
Basically I do it this for mosaics only just because I want to insure that the symmetry of the two (or more) pins is as close to perfect as possible. If the handle is near completion, I can see how the mosaic design flows into the curves better. Mind you, the pins are within probably 1/32" on either side jutting out so there is very little filing / sanding needed to flush them to the scales. I just found this works better and you don't have to feel rushed when mounting them in if you're not fiddling with the scales, clamps, wiping away the excess epoxy, etc. Regular pins I slap in with everything else.
 
Ah.... Makes sense with more than one mosaic.

Something I've done is to temporarily pin the blocked scales on the blade and sand the profile down to just 1/32 or so shy of the tang. Then I'll pin the scales together and shape the front of the scales. That way, when I'm shaping the front of the handles, I can get a real feel for how it's going to look. Also, when I'm gluing up the handles, I can see the actual handle profile and just set mosaic at that time (I use 30 minute set epoxy and some needle nose to twist 'em into orientation). Of course, mostly I just use one mosaic. Thanks for sharing your reasoning!

--nathan
 
I actually really like your use of the single near the front and the thong in the back. It's a very unique look and honestly more than enough strength. Plus it leaves a nice clean slate for some of the wonderful handle materials out there!
 
A note to new users of mosaics.
The ones with stainless components will get hot when sanded on a grinder. They can burn the wood around them quickly. saw/file the excess to be flush with the wood before grinding, and use fresh belts and slow speed. This problem is very troublesome on materials. that scorch easily, like curly maple, koa,white micarta, and ivory. I try and use the nickle and brass mosaics on such materials.
Stacy
 
Good point, Stacy. I cut the pins flush prior to sanding, and go slowly, using quick, short passes, and fresh belts. The majority of my shaping is done on 36 grit belts for even less heat build up, and only the very initial beveling of the handle is done on the platen. The slack belt will build heat for you less quickly.

--nathan
 
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