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Mosaic Pins + Steel Bolster
- Thread starter c.joe
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2005
- Messages
- 326
To pin a bolster on correctly, you would but a small chamfer in the bolster and then pound the pin to form a rivet. I can't picture a way of doing that without ruining the look of the mosaic pin. If the bolster was epoxied or soldered on, then the mosaic pin could help with shear force but not holding-it-together-force. If it was epoxied on, the mosaic pin could make the construction stronger, especially if you cut grooves in the pin for epoxy to fill, but not as strong as riveting a pin. If you're going to solder it on, you'd have to epoxy the pin in afterwards because soldering temps would melt the epoxy that makes up the (usually) black insides of the mosaic pin.
I'm sure it would work, but it's up to you to decide if it's tough enough. People consider it strong enough for scales so I don't see why not. I think most people don't rivet their pins anyway and if they do, they grind off the head when shaping the handle. It's an interesting idea. I've done it on jewelry but that doesn't need to stand up to any forces at all.
I'm sure it would work, but it's up to you to decide if it's tough enough. People consider it strong enough for scales so I don't see why not. I think most people don't rivet their pins anyway and if they do, they grind off the head when shaping the handle. It's an interesting idea. I've done it on jewelry but that doesn't need to stand up to any forces at all.
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2013
- Messages
- 1,574
Do normal tapered hole pins alongside the mosaic pin. They should blend in enough that you wouldn't see them.
[ o O o ] = where the big one is the mosaic pin
o
O
o
Horizontal or vertical, whatever would work for the bolster.
[ o O o ] = where the big one is the mosaic pin
o
O
o
Horizontal or vertical, whatever would work for the bolster.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2013
- Messages
- 1,180
If I felt the need to put a mosaic pin in the middle of a stainless bolster, I would set my peened pins wide enough to not interfere with the mosaic pin and peen them into their normal tapered holes. I would then drill and probably ream a hole in the bolster that I could epoxy a mosaic pin into. I might even try skipping the epoxy and see if I could secure the pin by staking around the perimeter and then grinding smooth. If you are really patient and slightly skilled, you could probably make the staking look like a decorative element of the knife.
Bob
Bob
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2013
- Messages
- 1,574
Maybe make the tang hole for the mosaic pin larger than necessary and file a corresponding groove in the mosaic pin where it would be going through the tang. Epoxy will fill the gaps and help lock it in. That would be another way to go without staking (which might be a cool look in and of itself)
I should have recommended reaming the bolster to correct diameter as well.
Also (just brainstorming) you could mechanically lock in the mosaic pin by cutting a slot through the tang where you could slide a pin into a hole that would go into the side of the mosaic pin. That way you would have a mechanical lock to keep it from sliding out.
Then you put your other scales on and Bob's your uncle!
I should have recommended reaming the bolster to correct diameter as well.
Also (just brainstorming) you could mechanically lock in the mosaic pin by cutting a slot through the tang where you could slide a pin into a hole that would go into the side of the mosaic pin. That way you would have a mechanical lock to keep it from sliding out.
Then you put your other scales on and Bob's your uncle!