Most Durable Folding Knife?

I gotta say that the Rick Hinderer XM-18 IS one of THE toughest knives out there, at least in my opinion.
 
Talonite and tough in the same sentence?:rolleyes:

H1 steel would be a better option.

As regards a lock, a well designed lockback like on the Spyderco Manix is better than a frame lock strength wise. The weak point on most frame lock is the cut out relief used to allow the frame lock to bend. It will normally fail here first. Chain and weakest link etc.

Though I do like frame locks a lot.

Ease of one handed closing (when you want to close the knife, not accidental unlocking) and lint trapping are really the only complaints against lock backs I hear a lot.
 
Corrosion resistance- Satin finished stainless is more prone to corrosion that a coated blade. So I would look more towards a coated blade. (Except for Talonite, which I am really do not know much about)
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Corrosion resistance also has to deal with the exact metallurgy of the blade. Victorinox knives, for example, resist rust very well despite not being coated. The same with the Spyderco Salt series.
 
I was just inquiring to see if the statement made that his T-1000V is 80RC. Thats all, didn't mean to bring back a big discussion.
 
whitey529 said:
I was just inquiring to see if the statement made that his T-1000V is 80RC. Thats all, didn't mean to bring back a big discussion.
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Howdy,
To answer your question:

80 RC is unlikely for the blade.

The Farid T-1000 series blades are made from T-1 steel. That is a high speed steel which can go to the mid 60's RC. It has a very high tungsten carbide content.

The original poster may have been confused by the Tungsten DLC coating offered on the original T-1000. That does have a hardness that, if stated in RC numbers, would be around 80.

Best regards,
Knarf
 
Hey, thanks for answering my question. I assumed he was talking about the coating but just wanted some verification. That would be way too brittle
 
Ha, I've got you all beat!

Maxam folders are the most durable. They're so hideously bad that you'll never use them, but will throw them in a drawer. Twenty years from now they'll still be there. Now that's durability!

Actually, in all seriousness, trying to keep a knife blade beautiful and unused is kind of defeating the purpose. Just about every coating will wear. I still like coated blades.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
why drag an ancient dead thread up to the top and make an off-topic post?
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whitey529 said:
I was just inquiring to see if the statement made that his T-1000V is 80RC. Thats all, didn't mean to bring back a big discussion.
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Necromancy is not something to fool around with... :D

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Down here in the righteous realm of mediocrity, I'll take my $65 Cabela's-only Buck 110 'Alaskan Guide' in Al-Ti-N coated S30V as my 'best' approximation. Of course, a Spydie S30V Native, at $40 from Wallie Woild, is both easy to find and fund. Paint the blade in your choice of nail polish, of course (Goth black?). Turbulence passed, you may return your tray to the down position.

Stainz
 
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