Most grit resistant lock

The Deacon said:
Framelocks, whether Reeve style or Spyderco Compression as on the ATR, have to be the most grit resistant. No springs to get clogged with crud. The lockbar will tend to sweep any crud on the engagement surface out of its way. No space between a liner and scale for crud to make closing impossible. No other nooks and crannies for crud to clog. Any lock which relies on springs to keep it engaged will be less reliable under adverse conditions. The smaller and weaker the springs, the less I'd trust it.

I were going to carry a knife at the beach, I'd opt for a fixed blade. If I absolutely had to carry a folder there, in spite its of being "wrong handed" for me, I'd carry my RIL Sage.

Paul
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Agreed.
 
Josh K said:
Pyromancer said:
And flatground H1 if the grinding is feasible

D
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Very. :D
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Only if you mean via someone like Tom Krein. Sal has repeatedly stated that putting a full flat grind on H-1 is NOT feasible on a production basis.

5.56 said:
I agree with Lycosa who agrees with Paul. :D

except I would never use a RIL Sage, especially around water, dirt, grime, because it's smooth handles would be dangerously slippery
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Am somewhat surprised I've haven't seen any pictures of any of them with "carved", "drilled", or otherwise roughened handles yet except for the ones Gull Wing posted where he'd jimped the handle behind the ramp and added a ridged backstrap to at least one RIL Sage. But, even without mods, the RIL Sage's handle shape stills gives what I consider a secure grip under adverse conditions. Certainly better than the rather block shaped handle of a plain jane Sebenza would offer under those same conditions. Granted, either version of the ATR would offer even better grip straight out of the box but, for me at least, the fugly factor rules that one out. :o

RIL titanium Military is due out later this year, but of course that won't offer any better grip than the RIL Sage.

Paul
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My Personal Website - - - - - - A Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting - - - - - - Kiwimania
Dead horses beaten, sacred cows tipped, chimeras hunted when time permits.
Spyderco Collector # 043 - - WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
It's easy to grin when your ship comes in and good fortune and fame are your lot, but the man worthwhile is the man who can smile with his shorts twsited up in a knot. - Morey Amsterdam
 
shunsui said:
There's a good use for a spare Mule.

H1 would be nice.
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Yes it would, and I'm sure there are a number of folks who, at least in theory, would love an H-1 Mule. Sal commented HERE that Tom Krein would be willing to grind them for him, but seemed to be questioning whether enough people would be willing to pay the resultant price to make the run worthwhile. And, since the Mule Team was conceived as a "one design" series where nothing changes but the steel, I'm guessing the hollow grind necessary on a factory ground H-1 blade is not an option in his mind.

Paul
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My Personal Website - - - - - - A Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting - - - - - - Kiwimania
Dead horses beaten, sacred cows tipped, chimeras hunted when time permits.
Spyderco Collector # 043 - - WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
It's easy to grin when your ship comes in and good fortune and fame are your lot, but the man worthwhile is the man who can smile with his shorts twsited up in a knot. - Morey Amsterdam
 
Josh K said:
Back locks, liner locks, and compression locks are all very reliable in the presence of grim, dirt, and other gunk.
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Most of my favorite folders are lockbacks, but I've had one's lock channel fill with lint and not engage. Liner locks (including frame) and compression locks followed by axis and ball-bearing locks would be the ones I find to be dirt-proof and lint-proof.
 
Josh K said:
Yes, there are in the making plans for a full H1 military, yellow G-10 handles, and fully stainless hardwear!



I am just going to TTT this in hopes 'somebody' out there will open their eyes and SEE.
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Yellow G10 ? I guess the full flat grind is problematic though. How about a Pacific Salt with a titanium frame lock and a pointy tip ?
 
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Josh K said:
Considering the MUDD folder uses a HAWK lock, and I was talking about all four in my posts, I wasn't sure which you were talking about.

The purpose (not basis) for my bold letters were to draw attention to an obviously sarcastic statement. Considering the large print and bold, you're basically shouting on a forum. Pipe down a bit and back up your opinion (please). Really shouldn't have to ask twice when you try to shed attention by analyzing my replies and previous posts instead of just explaining yourself.
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Again, do you see the HAWK lock mentionedmin the quoatation.

Follow your own advice as to "shouting".
 
orthogonal1 said:
Again, do you see the HAWK lock mentionedmin the quoatation.

Follow your own advice as to "shouting".
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Took you three days to reply? :rolleyes: Just drop it, it's dead. You still haven't backed up your opinion, which means it was based on nothing and is worthless.
 
Josh K said:
Took you three days to reply? :rolleyes: Just drop it, it's dead. You still haven't backed up your opinion, which means it was based on nothing and is worthless.
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What can I say - work gets in the way.:rolleyes:

I've had lockbacks fill with crud, liner-locks and framelocks fails due to silt-like debrie at the lock interface, Axis-locks fail due to sandy debri in the bar openings and on the tang, Ball-locks fail due to silt-like debrie in the piston-spring area and on the tang, a CBL fail due to a single piece of silt-like debrie on the tang, etc. Stuff happens,

All worked fine after swishing about in some water and/or blowing out with compressed air.

The lesson is simple - keep your knife clean, like you would any mechanical mechanism with moving parts.

Since the topic is debrie in the loc, what does springs have to do with it? Never had an omega spring break, though.

Stll haven't tried a MUDD - but is there an opening inside the blade channel? Debrie has a way of getting into any opening.
 
orthogonal1 said:
What can I say - work gets in the way.:rolleyes:

I've had lockbacks fill with crud, liner-locks and framelocks fails due to silt-like debrie at the lock interface, Axis-locks fail due to sandy debri in the bar openings and on the tang, Ball-locks fail due to silt-like debrie in the piston-spring area and on the tang, a CBL fail due to a single piece of silt-like debrie on the tang, etc. Stuff happens,

All worked fine after swishing about in some water and/or blowing out with compressed air.

The lesson is simple - keep your knife clean, like you would any mechanical mechanism with moving parts.

Since the topic is debrie in the loc, what does springs have to do with it? Never had an omega spring break, though.

Stll haven't tried a MUDD - but is there an opening inside the blade channel? Debrie has a way of getting into any opening.
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Yes, but you tried to say the Axis lock was more reliable then a back lock / liner lock / frame lock. Of course dirt and grime can cause the lock to fail, that's not the point. The point is which is the most reliable under those circumstances, and the answer would be liner / frame lock.

The Axis lock is great when clean. The plethora of moving parts in that lock prohibit safe reliable action under dirty conditions.
 
Personally, I would carry an Aqua Salt or fixed blade as a fishing knife. At least if you're doing that activity nobody can give you any strange looks. Just don't tuck it into your waistband or you might run into "concealed weapon" problems.

Sage 2 or any RIL style design.

Followed by a flow-through liner lock like the Tenacious or Military.

Followed by the rest. Points given for things easy to disassemble. Extra points given to cheap knives like the Tenacious you can beat into the ground and buy another.

I would have responded in bold size 42 font text but since I had points and perspective I didn't feel it necessary.

PS: Have more than 1 knife is a must. Designating one knife as your fishing knife will make sure that in other cases (office work, self defense, breaking down boxes, etc) there is no silt or fish scales messing with your lock. I don't think the average fisherman needs a MBC rated line cutter. Just treat the lock like a slip joint with a safety built in.
 
orthogonal1 said:
All worked fine after swishing about in some water and/or blowing out with compressed air.

The lesson is simple - keep your knife clean, like you would any mechanical mechanism with moving parts.

Since the topic is debrie in the loc, what does springs have to do with it? Never had an omega spring break, though.
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I tried the rinsing in saltwater part with the axis, didn't work, still had to wiggle the blade in and out several times to hear it click. There was no air compresser on the beach.
The big holes in which the omega springs sit can fill with sand, and prevent the buttons from sliding. The omega springs can break, but theoretically one broken spring doesn't hinder the lock from functioning.
I'm thinking the lock with the fewer "mechanical mechanisms" might be the best bet for folders. And yes, I'm aware of fixed blades, and friction folders etc.

Snagblade said:
don't think the average fisherman needs a MBC rated line cutter. Just treat the lock like a slip joint with a safety built in.
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I'm not worried about a fish slapping the back of the blade and overcoming the 100lb/inch or whatever MBC rating the lock is rated for. It's dark outside, I'm covered in sand, seaweed. I'm just looking to hear that reassuring *click*

Thanks
D
 
At the beach awhile back, I had my Pacific Salt. It got pretty gritty from all the sand, but it was easy as pie to wash out with water. Later back home, I simply used dish soap and ran the faucet over it and it was good as new. And no worries about the inner workings fouling up with rust. So no, it's not a grit-proof locking system, but it's possibly the most care-free type of folding knife to just rinse and wipe off.
Jim
 
Josh K said:
Yes, but you tried to say the Axis lock was more reliable then a back lock / liner lock / frame lock. Of course dirt and grime can cause the lock to fail, that's not the point. The point is which is the most reliable under those circumstances, and the answer would be liner / frame lock.

The Axis lock is great when clean. The plethora of moving parts in that lock prohibit safe reliable action under dirty conditions.
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What part of "No more reliable than the Axis-lock" states more reliability?

The answer would not be liner / frame lock are more reliable. They may be easier to keep clear of debrie, but that's about it.

If one is checking for debrie as one should, it makes no difference since they all can accummulate debrie.


I tried the rinsing in saltwater part with the axis, didn't work, still had to wiggle the blade in and out several times to hear it click. There was no air compresser on the beach.
The big holes in which the omega springs sit can fill with sand, and prevent the buttons from sliding. The omega springs can break, but theoretically one broken spring doesn't hinder the lock from functioning.
I'm thinking the lock with the fewer "mechanical mechanisms" might be the best bet for folders. And yes, I'm aware of fixed blades, and friction folders etc.
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Worst I've done was an 806 in creek silt - fine sand powder - and it didn't get so clogged. Don't see how you did it, but stuff happens.

Try out one of them supposedly sealed HAWK locks and let us know how it works out since anyone that clog any knife so much will invarably cause linerlocks and such to fail.
 
orthogonal1 said:
What part of "No more reliable than the Axis-lock" states more reliability?

The answer would not be liner / frame lock are more reliable. They may be easier to keep clear of debrie, but that's about it.
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They are more reliable then the Axis lock. :rolleyes:
 
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