Like I've posted before I'm a complete noob to busse. I was wondering what you Busse experts would recommend for a busse knife designed for primarily fighting/combat. I would like a knife that is great at cutting and thrusting. Preferrably the blade to be around 5-8 inches. Thanks. I've seen some pics and checked the name threads but I'm still a little confused on what each one was originally designed for. Thanks.
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Most likely been done before but....
- Thread starter TechMicro
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JohnTheTexican
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I don't know nothin' 'bout nothin', but this sure looks like it was designed with a fight in mind:
ST-56. If you posted a "wanted to buy" ad, I'll bet you'd get one or two responses.
ETA: I don't have an ST-56, but that sure looks like my Barrett that it's resting on. Except mine doesn't look that well used.
ST-56. If you posted a "wanted to buy" ad, I'll bet you'd get one or two responses.
ETA: I don't have an ST-56, but that sure looks like my Barrett that it's resting on. Except mine doesn't look that well used.
mymindisamob
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I wouldn't call myself an expert, but, from your description of desire, I would suggest the Satin Jack TAC.
Gravelface
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I would say a BIBB(Bolo Inspired Battle Blade)
Walking Man
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Purebred fighters, BARF, would also fit the bill.
A Zero Tolerance Satin Jack would also be a dang fine knife for combat.
(ZTSJ)
DON'T FORGET ABOUT THE UPCOMING RECURVE FIGHTER!
A Zero Tolerance Satin Jack would also be a dang fine knife for combat.
(ZTSJ)
DON'T FORGET ABOUT THE UPCOMING RECURVE FIGHTER!
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I suddenly find myself a big fan of the Public Defender. 
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keep in mind that the public defender, while very good at maintaining blade stability under extremely abusive situations, will not slice through heavy material as well as the thinner blades.
by thinner i dont necessarily mean thinner then 3/16" thick, i mean in overal geometry. the pub defender has a ton of steel right behind the edge, and it gets to 3/16" thick pretty fast. its the same thing for all of the pure bred fighters.
if you intend to do a lot of heavy stabbing they're good, though i'm pretty sure the pub defender would have a hard time with stabbing heavy or thick materials as well (leather specifically).
but, if sharpened to 20 degree's per side or lower, they start to be as proficient at initiateing a cut as anything else. if your willing to grind for a few days with a sharpening stone and take the pub defender down to 10 degree's per side it would be excellent. however, if you intend to do that your going to end up completely overtaking the forward grind on the tanto. (meaning your sharpened bevel will be from the cutting edge all the way to the the 3/16" thick spine, puuko style)
that and i dont really like the 3rd gen style handles.... a lot of people love them, i just always felt that the index groove was to deep and left the blade feeling like it was slipping back in in the hand all the time. ymmv.
pesonally, i cant think of any busse i've handled thats better then my cut down thin NICK. i'm hoping the customs i have on order will be even better. it doesnt have a choil to snag on, i its just at that length where you start to lose indexing ability with the tip (so i can pick it up and know where the edge is, but if i need to make really delicate cuts blind, i have to put the side of the tip on the item first, or choke up and grip the blade itself).
if i had to chose a stock busse, i'd personally go with the standard satin jack tac. the blade is long enough that you dont have to worry to much about the choil (though i still do (i hate choils if you havent noticed)), and the handle is very secure. its contoured differently enough on both sides that you can index what orientation the blade is blind. its 3/16" thick, but it has a nice balance of geometry thickness.
its stuck between the two worlds for me, thick prybar and thin slicer, so i've never had any desire to actually carry it, but every time i pick it up it feels better then any other knife i've held.
also, the comments above are about a "fighting" knife - wich by my definition means a knife that is meant to be used in hand to hand combat, meant to injure the human body.
if you mean a combat knife, as in something that will be used in the feild of war - wich by my definition means a heavy general use/abuse, then the comments do not necessarily apply. for a combat blade i'd still pick the standard satin jack tac
for a combat knife, i also really liked papa thuds comments on the badger attack-e, having an extremely secure handle that will never slip from your hand (as long as you can actually grip it).
by thinner i dont necessarily mean thinner then 3/16" thick, i mean in overal geometry. the pub defender has a ton of steel right behind the edge, and it gets to 3/16" thick pretty fast. its the same thing for all of the pure bred fighters.
if you intend to do a lot of heavy stabbing they're good, though i'm pretty sure the pub defender would have a hard time with stabbing heavy or thick materials as well (leather specifically).
but, if sharpened to 20 degree's per side or lower, they start to be as proficient at initiateing a cut as anything else. if your willing to grind for a few days with a sharpening stone and take the pub defender down to 10 degree's per side it would be excellent. however, if you intend to do that your going to end up completely overtaking the forward grind on the tanto. (meaning your sharpened bevel will be from the cutting edge all the way to the the 3/16" thick spine, puuko style)
that and i dont really like the 3rd gen style handles.... a lot of people love them, i just always felt that the index groove was to deep and left the blade feeling like it was slipping back in in the hand all the time. ymmv.
pesonally, i cant think of any busse i've handled thats better then my cut down thin NICK. i'm hoping the customs i have on order will be even better. it doesnt have a choil to snag on, i its just at that length where you start to lose indexing ability with the tip (so i can pick it up and know where the edge is, but if i need to make really delicate cuts blind, i have to put the side of the tip on the item first, or choke up and grip the blade itself).
if i had to chose a stock busse, i'd personally go with the standard satin jack tac. the blade is long enough that you dont have to worry to much about the choil (though i still do (i hate choils if you havent noticed)), and the handle is very secure. its contoured differently enough on both sides that you can index what orientation the blade is blind. its 3/16" thick, but it has a nice balance of geometry thickness.
its stuck between the two worlds for me, thick prybar and thin slicer, so i've never had any desire to actually carry it, but every time i pick it up it feels better then any other knife i've held.
also, the comments above are about a "fighting" knife - wich by my definition means a knife that is meant to be used in hand to hand combat, meant to injure the human body.
if you mean a combat knife, as in something that will be used in the feild of war - wich by my definition means a heavy general use/abuse, then the comments do not necessarily apply. for a combat blade i'd still pick the standard satin jack tac
for a combat knife, i also really liked papa thuds comments on the badger attack-e, having an extremely secure handle that will never slip from your hand (as long as you can actually grip it).
Gravelface
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Mother Of All Skeleton Keys?
JurT
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Purebred fighter all the way.... they came in a 6" and 8" blade option.
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well if your gonna allow the moask - then i'd probably go for the magnum version as well...
Eric Isaacson
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I'd probably pick one of these
Or if I needed it to be more easily carried I'd probably pick one of these
Or if I needed it to be more easily carried I'd probably pick one of these
Gravelface
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That is one sweet group Eric!!!!
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Assuming you mean the BARF, it is a Mr. Mofo (Mefo?).