Moving a hardness tester

J

jeness

Joined
Jan 20, 2010
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45
Hello Gents!

It looks like I will be able to get a used hardness tester for a good price. The only drawback is that I will have to pick it up myself, but I never moved something that heavy. Don't know exactly how heavy it is, but I guess around 200-300 pounds.

How do you move something like that? I would like to pick it up with my 2006 civic, but will I be able to put it into the trunk and get it out after somehow? How will I lift that on a table? Are there budget friendly tools to help lifting it with the help of one extra person?

Thanks a lot for any help, I want to solve this issue without getting hurt or ruining the machine :)
 
two strong people manage to lift it, I moved mine with my Mazda 6. For small movements you can use a two-wheeled cart that you buy in all the brico center for 50 € - $, it can usually carry up to 200 kg....However, when you move it blocks or better remove the internal counterweights (I do not know what model you have), otherwise in the movement could break internal parts.
The real problem is when you have to move loads from 200 kg to go up, in this case the cranes used in the workshops for removing the engines from the cars are very useful (capacity up to 2000 kg).
 
I'm not overly familiar with the bench top models but don't they have removable weights in the back that just hang on a rod? I'm thinking about 100-150lbs work for the loading? If so, you can probably just remove a back cover and move the weights separately. You may want to do that anyways so they don't bang around.
 
Not sure what kind of tester you are looking at, but 200-300 pounds seems pretty high. I think the bench top 150A's are around 90 lbs. But they are awkward as hell to lift and move. Just be sure you get it strapped and secure, they are top heavy. Mine fell over in transit and it took me months to figure out how to get it calibrated properly again.
 
Yep, be sure to check the model of the hardness tester you're looking at. While they say "150 KG load", they don't actually have 150 kg of weights, but a MUCH lower weight that uses leverage to get the 150 KG load applied. As said above, the 150A clone weights around 90 lb. Be sure to stabilize/block the weights before transporting the tester to prevent the weights from banging around.
 
Get the MFGs name and the model/part number off the tester. Go on line and search for the MFG. Their site might have instructions available for preparing for shipment. If nothing else they should have the specifications (weight) and dimensions available. If instructions are not available online, You can also call them and see if they will email them to you.
Jim A.
 
I have a Grizzly G9645 tester, the net weight is specified at 195lbs. I think you can remove the weights, just take a photo or notes of where each weight goes, the back panel is easy to remove. Some of the parts are delicate and are sensitive to movement or possibly bending, I just say this because of the way it was packaged and several pieces of plastic blocking that have to be removed during setup....most of these blocks were around the internal parts of the tester. At any rate, you should get some test blocks (hopefully they are included) and you will likely have to re-calibrate the tester.
 
This is a vintage hardness tester, we will see how heavy it will be. I just wanted to make sure I am prepared for everything. My friend will come with me, apparently he knows what and how to disassemble so nothing gets damaged.
 
Also, make sure it has the proper diamond indenter. I bought a used AMES for a deal only to find out it had a ball indenter for Rockwell B scale and diamond were a few hundred dollars for that unit. I was able to modify a cheap Chinese diamond though and its very accurate. If you have a test block or at least a hardened piece of steel and know the approximate hardness you can test it.
 
I moved mine several times and from CA to AZ.
I just take the weights off, put it in the backseat floor and insulate it with padding, cardboard etc.
and always use 2 people to move it.

BeUDFt1.jpg
 
Spalted said:
You want to be sure its measures C scale
Click to expand...

Looks like it measures in C scale fortunately, they said I can even take a few measurements, everything is still set up for it. We will use a 60hrc test block and see how accurate it is
 
Carterwhopkins said:
I have a Grizzly G9645 tester, the net weight is specified at 195lbs.
Click to expand...
I see on grizzly website they do give a net weight of 195 lb. Not sure where they get that, I've got one of those and it's more like 95 lb. I can move it and I'm nowhere strong enough to lift 195 in my old age.
 
That may be shipping weight. A pallet and crating , plus the accessory box, can easily add up to 100 more pounds.
Be sure to either drain the dash pot or move it vertical (best method) so you don't get oil everywhere in your car.
Use two guys to move it. Even though one strong chap can lift it, it is not a good idea. It is a bulky and unbalanced dead weight.
 
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I bought my Grizzly earlier this year and it is heavy and a bit unwieldy as Stacy mentions....I think mine is close to the 195lb, crating was some 1x4 and 1/8 plywood. Anyway, it is not like moving an anvil, that if you drop it, it doesn't really matter...this is a "precision" instrument and should be handled as such. I generally manhandle things like this, but regarding this tester, I was happy I had a friend help me put it on the bench.

One other piece of advice I can offer, I thought the hardness tester would be a slam bam nuts on indicator of hardness...I have learned that they are subjective and require a lot of attention to the condition of the material being tested and a bunch of experience. Cliff Notes version: make sure the steel is sanded/polished to 120/240 grit +, make sure the blade is really resting in a flat and secure manner on the anvil. I have tested blades at 60 grit and 240 grit finishes and have gotten 20-30 point differences in hardness...also take several readings. Again, I thought one test and bingo, I had the magic number...it took me 2 days working with the tester before I learned how to get consistent believable results.
 
Do yourself a favor and go rent a Uhaul van.

You can easily damage it trying to get it moved around.
 
Thank you very much for your great advices! I feel much more comfortable now that I know what we have to do. Looks like 2 people will be enough, but we will have to be extremely careful when taking it apart and than with the transportation too.
 
Import ones are usually a lot heavier, often mostly cast iron. Lots of the nicer ones have lighter bodies. I've moved mine a half dozen times by myself (and yes, it weighs around 200lbs), they're usually pretty bottom heavy, so usually with a car, slide the passenger seat back as far as it will go and if you have room, put it on the floor there, otherwise, put it in the seat, and strap it in with a ratchet strap around the seat.

You shouldn't have to worry about damaging much, as long as it doesn't get knocked over, or banged around. You'll have to calibrate it no matter what, even if you had a half dozen angels carry it by hand to your shop.


You *need* a certified calibration block (preferably multiples, I like having two from different sources (to verify the calibration) at around 60 RC, and it's nice to have one in the 40 range for things like springs, etc), close to your target hardness. 60 RC, 62 RC, something. They all require calibrating, and the reading will be more accurate, the closer to the hardness of the block you calibrate to. Once setup on a heavy, stable, level surface, and calibrated, my import one always reads exactly 0.5 point high, within 5 points or so of my calibration point; usually calibrated at 62. I could adjust it again to be dead on, but mine is a little "fiddly" with the adjustment screw, and so I just leave it, until I move it again. I verify against 2 different non-import, certified calibration blocks, and any variation in results, are usually the steel. This will be apparent to anyone once you get i calibrated, hit exactly the same verification time and again with good technique, then witness seeing that repeat no matter how many times you test, with steel that gives extremely consistent results, I always assumed it was just variation in the readings, until I tested 5 blanks in a batch heat treated together, that I couldn't get a different reading from, of XHP recently. I was so amazed, that I verified my tester against, yet another certified block. Next thing I made from another steel, and I got the usual 1 point variation from spot to spot.
 
Can't say how thankful I am for all the info! :) We will pick up the tester tomorrow, I will report back with pictures once it is here and put back together.
 
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