Much difference in CF Sebenza vs full Ti?

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Mrgauth

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Mar 12, 2016
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I am going to buy one or the other in the next 24 hours and curious advantages one way or other. Besides weight I figure the CF will hold up better to wear and not show it as quick. Anyone have or tried both types?

And resale, does one fair better than another typically in case I don't like it and decide to shed it?

Thanks for any thoughts.
 
I'm working from hearsay here so take what I'm about to say with a grain of salt: I have heard that because one slab is CF and the other is titanium, the natural difference in tension between the two frames on the CF model will cause the blade centering to "creep" over time. I personally couldn't testify as all my CRKs are "plain jane."
 
Mrgauth said:
I am going to buy one or the other in the next 24 hours and curious advantages one way or other. Besides weight I figure the CF will hold up better to wear and not show it as quick. Anyone have or tried both types?

And resale, does one fair better than another typically in case I don't like it and decide to shed it?

Thanks for any thoughts.
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I've had 5 CF Sebenzas over the years. Three large 21s, one small 21, and one 25. On all but maybe one of them there was a very slight centering issue, having to do with the CF scale not "pushing" back as hard as the standard TI scale does. That being said, I've had several full TI Sebenzas with similar minor centering issues. It just happens occasionally.

The weight difference is definitely noticeable, so if you're looking for lighter, that's the way to go. The large 21 comes in at 3.7 oz, which feels just soo different from the standard which is just under 5 oz.

And it is true that the CF won't show snail trails like the plain TI slabs. But they are also given a light blasting to match the texture on the TI scales, so they do get snail trails as well. They are much harder to see than the ones on the TI scales, but they will get them over time, typically only visible in specific lighting from specific angles.

I do occasionally miss having a CF model in the collection. If I got a new one it would probably have to be an Insingo Inkosi. That'd be pretty sweet.
 
Thx guys. Appreciate it. Never thought about it possibly causing centering issues. Hmmm

As for looks I go back and forth. Both look good for different reasons to me.

One other question, does the polished handles you see on some of the inlay models, does it hold up as well as the regular sandblasted slabs?
 
Mrgauth said:
Thx guys. Appreciate it. Never thought about it possibly causing centering issues. Hmmm

As for looks I go back and forth. Both look good for different reasons to me.

One other question, does the polished handles you see on some of the inlay models, does it hold up as well as the regular sandblasted slabs?
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I'd say the polished flats on wood and CF inlay models don't take snail trails as readily as blasted scales, but they do scratch up. And I think they tend to be more noticeable when they do since they stand our more on the shiny satin finish.

Also, just get good pics of the centering in either case. You may be able to get one that is just fine. Over time, with wear any knife's centering can migrate slightly, not just the CF models.
 
Ugh... this jabs at my wound. I just missed a killer deal on a CF Sebenza Insingo yesterday on another forum. I was #2 = 1st loser :(

Now it's in my head. Retail price is looking better and better... although the seller did say the blade was not as smooth open/closing as his Ti models, for whatever that's worth.

Polished = you can repolish yourself easily to remove light scratches. Polished will not show scratches as easily as blasted, but it will scratch just as easily. Bead blasted looks great when new, but unless you've got the equipment to re-blast you've got to send it in for spa treatment (or polish it).

Good to know about blade centering due to differing materials. Interesting.
 
The polished portion on knives with in-lays, once scratched, will be difficult to remove. With the full ti handles (no in-lays), CRK will re-blast for free and unless the scratches are very deep, the ti handles basically look brand new after reblasting.
 
Yeah, I am not going inlays. Either cf or flat ti. I just read the Seb is not ambidextrous. That is disappointing and may push me to the Inkosi, but not a fan of that thick blade. Sucks to not be the Publisher Clearinghouse winner. : )
 
I have a large regular in Moon Song that CRK did an awesome job of removing the scratches on the
front scale. I didn't have them do anything with the back scale, I like the worn/used look that this knife has.
 
Mrgauth said:
Yeah, I am not going inlays. Either cf or flat ti. I just read the Seb is not ambidextrous. That is disappointing and may push me to the Inkosi, but not a fan of that thick blade. Sucks to not be the Publisher Clearinghouse winner. : )
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Ambidextrous as in you want double thumb studs? Or do you want a specificly lefty knife? Cuz you can get left handed versions of most CRKs.
 
I have a CF large 21 I bought it because I like CF and I like the weight savings. I've carried it everyday since February and have no regrets.
 
Mrgauth said:
Like to be able to use both hands and not be forced one way or the other.
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Gotcha. Inkosi is a good way to go. Or get a 21 with double studs. Or send it to CRK and they'll add them for pretty cheap. I forget how much.
 
My CF Small 21 is probably my favorite knife. Hands down. It's as smooth as any other CRK and has no centering issues.

Buy what you want and trust your own hand. If you buy a CRK and don't like it, at least you can resell quick with minimal loss.

Try not to over-think knife purchases...I think you might be in this case.

Also, you should ask a Mod to move this to the CRK forum; you'll get more feedback there.
 
halden.doerge said:
Gotcha. Inkosi is a good way to go. Or get a 21 with double studs. Or send it to CRK and they'll add them for pretty cheap. I forget how much.
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$35 plus return shipping. Count on around $50 total when you add in the shipping cost of you sending them the knife.
 
If u want ambitexturous then Inkosi/25 is the way to go. The 21 with double studs is not as comfortable for that. The inkosi/25 has a champfered lockbar so its easier to deploy.
 
Mrgauth said:
I am going to buy one or the other in the next 24 hours and curious advantages one way or other. Besides weight I figure the CF will hold up better to wear and not show it as quick. Anyone have or tried both types?

And resale, does one fair better than another typically in case I don't like it and decide to shed it?

Thanks for any thoughts.
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The only drawback to carbon fiber is if it's dropped and chips. With full Ti, you'll have a ding.
At times, the carbon fiber moves faster and gets a better return than a plain jane. That's because the carbon fiber is an exclusive for one dealer and they are done in batches. Of course if they're in stock, it will be harder to move unless you give it away.
 
IMO the Ti will hold up better to wear if you're going to use it. The CF may mask wear so it doesnt look worn, but full Ti will last literally forever.
 
You can always go in-between and get a CF-inlaid Sebenza. While it won't have a reduced weight, you will have a raised portion of CF providing what I would assert to be an improved feel in hand and also a buffer against damage to the Ti.

chris-reeve-large-sebenza-21-black-carbon-fiber-folder-large.jpg
 
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