Mule questions

M

MJF

Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
484
So how difficult would it be to finish a mule without much in the way of tools? I ask because I'm currently deployed, but would like to complete an S90V Mule while I'm here, but I have literally no access to power tools. So what's the verdict? Can it be done semi-efficiently with hand tools, and if so, what hand tools would be the most useful? Also, where do you guys get your scale materials, pins, screws etc?

Thanks guys.

Oh, also, keeping in mind the above parameters, what would you suggest for scales? I'd like to use Micarta but don't know much about working with it. I'm new to all of this but think it might be a nice memento from my time over here.
 
It can be done with a hand drill, a couple of bits, a coping saw and some sandpaper if you have time on your hands. I made a horseshoe ring out of a nylock nut with a set of jeweler's files while I was on submarine patrol. I would think the hardest part would be getting the Micarta.
 
That would depend entirely on you and what you would find comfortable. I've been using my Mules with a simple paracord wrap and find them reasonable for thickness. I'd go with 3/16" myself, but a lot of the pictures I've seen seem to be 3/8" or more.
 
I started with wood scales 1 3/4 X 5 X 3/8 inches.
A soft wood is easy to cut,carve and sand so make them and they will serve as templates later if you don`t like them.
 
ice-pic said:
I started with wood scales 1 3/4 X 5 X 3/8 inches.
A soft wood is easy to cut,carve and sand so make them and they will serve as templates later if you don`t like them.
Click to expand...

Agree on those dimenstions. If you start .375" thick you will be removing a fair bit of material but unless you like skinny scales or have a small hand you'll want to have some of that left for the center of the grips.
 
What material would be best for someone new to the hobby to work with? Also, where are some good places to buy supplies?

Thanks for the help guys!
 
Stabilized wood would probably be the safest to work with. G-10 dust is hazardous (either the glass fibers, the bonding agent or both). Micarta doesn't use fiberglass, but I don't know about the phenolic resin, it could be hazardous as dust. Carbon fiber is probably about like G-10 on the hazard scale.

I've heard good things about an outfit called Texas Knifemaker's Supply (texasknife.com) but I've never bought anything from them.
 
Agree on stabilized wood. Have been told carbon fiber is worse than G10 from a dust point of view. I have ordered supplies from knifekits.com and have had good experiences. They have stabilized wood, Dymondwood and various other things, as well as the correct size screws.
 
I just bought some attractive wood thru Ebay for under $10. There are pins and stuff on there too.

If you have a friend in the motor-pool, he might lend you a Dremmel tool to speed things along too.
 
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