Mule Team question...

So here it is all rough shaped, sanded to 220 grit... All flats have been well contoured, and everything is flush to the tang.

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The after about 2 hours of sanding at 400 grit it is starting to look like something.

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This is after dark, so some pretty poor indoor lighting. I will take it to 1000 grit next and apply Tru Oil. I think this will turn out OK.

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Oh - in case you are wondering... This Maxamet is a real bastid to hand sand. This tang still has a lot of scratches from lower grits that would long since have been gone on another steel. It wears out my sandpaper about 4X faster and is not polishing up too well. Not for the faint of heart!
 
Very impressive result. Congrats.

The new contour/shape of the finger groove guard looks perfect.

Looking forward to the finished photos.
 
Oh - in case you are wondering... This Maxamet is a real bastid to hand sand. This tang still has a lot of scratches from lower grits that would long since have been gone on another steel. It wears out my sandpaper about 4X faster and is not polishing up too well. Not for the faint of heart!
Which type of abrasives are you using? I'm sure it will wear out any of them fast. Just curious.
 
Inexpensive, home depot paper paper. I could spring for better stuff. It is what I use on all my handles and it is perfectly suitable for most stuff... this is just noticeably more of a challenge. No big deal, paper is cheap.
 
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That is a great looking mule,can`t believe it took so long for somebody to do this.
I might be next.
 
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It's been done quite a bit. The DIY handle crowd was one of the reasons for the MT line. My take with sculpted handles and mosaic pins is a life custom, but you'll see plenty of good exames to go by if you Google them.

D
I say go for it if you have a life skill and can out a little time into it.
 
I just googled Spyderco Mule images and all the finished mules seemed to have that little
finger guard left on.
That is the what I like about your knife.
The ironwood and mosaic pins are really nicely done,well done.
 
For every purpose except cutting on a board the guard is fine. On a cutting board when you want to bring it all the way down, you just cant. I don't use my Mule for camping food prep for exactly that reason. I did, however, buy a SpydieChef for this purpose instead. It's perfect for the job.
 
So how's this for amazing customer service?!

When I was grinding off the guard I dinged the blade pretty good against my sander and put about a 3/8" flat spot in the otherwise pristine factory edge. Doh!

I took the knife into the spyderco factory store today, looking for a sheath. I showed them the damage and explained what I did and how I did it grinding off the guard. They said they'd sharpen it up for me anyway. No problem. "We see pretty beat up knives all the time, this is nothing."

I was quite surprised.
 
I finally finished up the handle on this Maxamet Mule Team, and yesterday I picked it up from the Spyderco shop after they kindly put a factory fresh edge back on it. Outstanding bunch of folks there at the mother ship. Really appreciate their customer care. Here are some glam shots. The ironwood on this really messes with the light sensor thingamajig on my camera (Samsung galaxy s6 - a great camera). The orange in the ironwood positively glows.

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Happy thanksgiving everyone.
 
Elegant! I wondered about the little extension on my Mule in CPM-20CV, but decided to leave it, just for safety. Don't want my hand slipping onto that scalpel edge.
 
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