Multi Platen Questions

[JoshRG]

Up until now I have done the majority of my handle shaping on a 1x42, utilizing the relatively large area of slack belt for contours and such. I now have a 2x72 and would like to keep my belt purchases dedicated to mainly this machine as keeping inventory for numerous belt sizes has become somewhat tiresome. Therefore my goal is to build/purchase a slack belt attachment for my 2x72. I had initially planned to buy the slack platen from kmg or a similar product. However, I would like to make each attachment as versatile as possible and am contemplating the multiplaten from Polar Bear Forge. My reasoning for this is the possibility of adding different sized contact wheels, allowing greater efficiency in grinding curves of varying radii.

My question is essentially what is required to put together this type of attachment, i.e. taps, drills, hardware, etc. What size contact wheels can be used, i have a 10 inch wheel and would like to have the platen set up with a 2 and 4 inch wheel on either end (unless others have recommendations on more versatile wheel sizes). And finally would it be possible to make such an attachment pivot so as to have one side set up with a flat platen and the other run as slack. Also if anyone has any recommendations on where to source wheels at relatively inexpensive prices that would be greatly appreciated. I have looked mainly at usaknifemaker for wheels but am not sure if there are other sources that will fit my needs. I am hoping to keep the build below $150 but I really have no idea if that is possible or not.

Here is a pic I sourced from Google showing basically what I am going for:


Thank you in advance for the help!

 

[Bob Ohlemann]

I have two GIB grinders from Polar Bear Forge and I really like them. I have both a regular platen and a multi-platen attachment. I do not think the multi-platen will give you enough clearance behind the belt, especially with the contact wheel sizes you are wanting to run. Honestly, my multi-platen just sits on the shelf. For slack belt operations, I remove the platen from the standard attachment. With a 2" and 4" wheel, I think you would be better off to get the standard platen attachment. It is made to tilt 45° forward and back but, you could also remove the bolt that adjusts the tilt and go further if needed.

On contact wheels, you get what you pay for. I have one of the cheaper poly wheels (6") from USA Knifemaker and it does not run true and smooth like the Beaumont wheels which I believe are made by Contact Rubber Corp.

Bob

 

[JoshRG]

Hmmm I see. Well although that is a bit of a letdown I'm sure it will save me plenty of heartache in the end. Thank you very much for the advice Bob. It is most appreciated.
Blessings,
Joshua

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I ask people how hard is it to change arms. A dedicated arm and wheel or platen is far sturdier and more accessible than a arm with several wheels on it. There may be situations where it would work, but having multiple arms is the most professional way.

On wheels, I totally echo Bob's advice .... you get what you pay for.