Murray Carter neck knife comments

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Apr 19, 2010
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13
Nice looking blade. I need to stray elsewhere for the trade forum is going to overload my senses. Really. Nice looking knife.
 
Murray's White Steel isn't bad but I do prefer the Blue Super Steel.
 
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I wouldn't use Murray's White Steel on a bet. His new Blue Super Steel is OK and that is all I would use.

I don't know what you're basing this on. I have both the White Steel and the Blue Super, I find that the White Steel is by far easier to put a wicked scary sharp edge on, it cuts perfectly fine, it's edge retention is great, so... what you going on about? Did you search just to bad mouth Murray Carter on all of the threads about him? Or is this ACTUALLY based on something related to his knives? And even then, with all the transactions and correspondents I've had with his company, I find this hard to believe... Sorry.
 
I removed these posts from a sales thread, Murray Carter neck knife. They are off-topic and could have gotten you all infractions for interfering with the sale. Please read the FAQ and the Exchange forum rules and avoid comments in Exchange threads unless you are actually discussing buying or trading for the item.
 
i really like my kitchen knives made with hitachi white core sandwiched between 2 layers of an unnamed s.s. alloy.murry states that although the blue is tougher his preferred alloy for many of his knives is the hitachi white. i think he sends it out about 63r.r.
 
I've had about a dozen MC knives and used white steel exclusively for the first couple years and then gravitated to the Blue Super Steel. I think it does everything White can but it's a little tougher when it comes to whacking on bones.
 
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No, thanks though. I find that my Murray Carter neck knife is perfect for everything that I need it to do. I couldn't be happier with it, in fact I'll be getting a custom made Murray Carter neck knife shortly, it'll have some sort of burl handles (still looking) with blue liners and wharncliffe profile. If you find that his knives aren't for you, that's great, I'm happy if you found a knife (or prybar) that works for you.:cool::thumbup:

I don't know about you, but I just spent some time whittling hair with my necker, there's a certain satisfaction when your knife has that potential especially since that edge has lasted close to three weeks.

You can't receive PMs either.
 
I'll fix my settings. Don't apply too much forward pressure on that warncliff (like pressing it into wood) the tip will bend. The good thing is Murray does a super job straightening them.
 
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I'll fix my settings. Don't apply too much forward pressure on that warncliff (like pressing it into wood) the tip will bend. The good thing is Murray does a super job straightening them.

Things like this do not make sense to me simply because I have done this, I do this all the time and the tip is perfectly fine. Like I said, sorry you had a bad experience with your knives, the things you mention I've never experienced with mine, so... I don't know what you want to draw from that. Maybe you need an axe and a prybar more than you need an knife in your line of work.

You need to be basic member or higher to get PMs, too.
 
I believe white steel is the steel that Murray uses in his own neck knife that he carries daily. I've used mine for years, and it is the best cutter of any of the knives I own. I have never directly compared it to the blue steel, but Murray himself said that blue steel is the master of edge retention, but white steel excels at obtaining a very fine edge. My knife holds up just fine to anything I've put it through to this point. Most knives are designed to do one thing primarily... which is CUT. When it comes to cutting, my Murray Carter outpaces any other knife I own. It does a very good job at what a knife is supposed to do.
 
Murray's knives are the easiest to sharpen and given his rockwell of 60 or 61 you would think otherwise but stropping the blade with 2000 then 6000 grit yields great results. I've gingerly used his knives to pry sheet metal and had no blade damage (blue steel). I haven't been able to ruin any of his stuff.
 
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the white hitachi sandwiched between 2 layers of some s.s. has been used in my kitchen for 7 years. i think it is 64 or 65 rr great cutter but not a knife you would use to chop up a chicken. these are slicers not hackers.
dennis
 
Hey Somber,
I'm still fixated on Murray's neck knives, and the more my collection shifts to fixed blades the closer I get to pulling the trigger on one. I'm at the stage where I'm just trying to decide between his white and blue super steel. My question is how you'd compare those steels to some more common ones (both stainless and carbon) in terms of ability to take a fine edge, edge retention, wear resistance, etc. Thanks.
 
Hey Somber,
I'm still fixated on Murray's neck knives, and the more my collection shifts to fixed blades the closer I get to pulling the trigger on one. I'm at the stage where I'm just trying to decide between his white and blue super steel. My question is how you'd compare those steels to some more common ones (both stainless and carbon) in terms of ability to take a fine edge, edge retention, wear resistance, etc. Thanks.

Well... I don't know, to be honest. It would be difficult for me to give you 'exact specifications', but I'll try to speak best towards experience.

I really like the Blue Super, for one. Often times when I need to sharpen my wharncliffe the edge is still completely workable and the edge is still fairly keen, but it's just incredibly easy to bring the edge back to an incredibly sharp level. I've done cutting tests with it compared to S30V and after several cuts through cardboard the edge on the Blue Super seemed undamaged and the S30V was more dull - whether this can be attributed to the full taper vs hollow ground is negligible. As far as what it can do vs otherSteels... 154CM, VG10, S30V, or D2 (which is a nice hard steel, but I can never achieve as keen of an edge) - Blue Super is easier to sharpen, achieves a better edge, and you'll have to sharpen it less. I have spent hours sharpening S30V and I cannot achieve the same edge as I can with the Blue Super and about ten minutes time.

Now, wear resistance...

4985934390_0ab18f90c9_z.jpg

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This happened after a terrible and is completely my mistake. I had the knife in my back pocket improperly stored in the kydex sheath, long story short, the knife fell onto the ground from about 3' and jogging speed. It landed tip into concrete (as you can see), the extent of the damage was strictly on the tip and the base of the maroon micarta. The rest of the blade was completely damage free, and still hair splitting edge long the lower portions. But, as you can see... It fared pretty well. I can't imagine you would be putting more wear on it than dropping it from a high altitude straight (I make it sound like I was on a jet or something...) onto it's tip.

The White Steel I can't say I've had too much experience with simply because the wharncliffe has made home in my pocket. It's still wicked sharp to this day and it cuts veggies like a beast... It does seem to get a different looking patina than the Blue Super, more clear haze vs a dark spotty patina of the Blue Super, but as far as daily use, compared to my wharncliffe I put it through next to nothing.

I will say that it seems to achieve a better edge, but as far as what I prefer between the two, just based on because I use it more and not based on any specific flaws, I'd say Blue Super.

I hope that helps, I don't know what more I can say about the two of them, I don't have enough experience with White Steel to say anything bad about it, and I have too much experience with Blue Super to stray away from it.

If you have an M4 tool steel I'd say that this is probably pretty similar to both of these choices in just its' incredible ability to have such a keen edge...
 
I did it! I finally said enough is enough with all these middling knives I keep "settling" for and sprang for a Carter. I haven't been this excited about a knife ever! It is a 175mm (7") "original" pattern necker with forge finished Blue Super steel and ironwood handle. I was hoping for White steel and a wharncliffe design but there didn't seem to be much of either of those in this currnet batch of his neck knives. I don't feel like I compromised, though. I'm still super psyched! Plus, this'll give me reason to pick up another of his knives when a wharnie with Hitachi White surfaces sometime in the future. Don't what else to say, so I'll leave y'all with a pic of it from Murray's site and a promise to post some original pics when it arrives next week.

Somber, many thanks for details regarding steel and the pics. It just might have pushed me over the edge!

It even looks sharp!
carter.jpg
 
Gorgeous! I hope I helped a bit, I re-read my post and it's littered with grammar, spelling and composition errors, I'd be surprised if it even made sense.

I think you made a great choice, you'll love the knife - I'm excited for you. Please post a lot of pictures for us (me), I have an interest in seeing the wooden handles, particularly. :D:thumbup:
 
All these guys that refuse to use standard rockwell hardness and forging terms just seem like snobs to me. You seriously expect me to know japanese well enough to buy an oriental blade from a white guy?
 
All these guys that refuse to use standard rockwell hardness and forging terms just seem like snobs to me. You seriously expect me to know japanese well enough to buy an oriental blade from a white guy?

Party pooper:rolleyes:. I'm no snob for buying a knife of his (and yes, I know that's not what you meant), and I seriously doubt Murray Carter is either. In fact, I happen to have it on good authority that he's one of the most humble knifemakers in the industry and just a plain ol' nice guy to boot. Even if he is, so what, can't I simply be happy about a new knife without having moops p!ss all over my good time?

I'll let the absurdity of your opinions on this matter speak for itself.
 
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