Ok folks.. just like the title says. I am on the waiting list for the new Littlemachineshop High torque solid column mini mill,it will be in stock within the next week or 2 (space,voltage,and plans on moving in the near future are all issues that i face,so a mini mill is my best option. I tried to buy a knee mill a few months ago and was told it would not be wise for my situation) with that being said.. What accessories are a must have for folder making? Thanks...
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Must have tooling parts for folder making using a Mill?
- Thread starter Jsteele
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2008
- Messages
- 814
Not a must have but highly recommended is a Tapmatic. Tapping Ti by hand takes sooo long.
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 21,855
Which folder type?
Friction
Liner-frame lock
Lockback
Slip joint
All have their different tools.
For Linerlocks, see
Bob Terzuola's book, he has lots of tools and tooling.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203
Friction
Liner-frame lock
Lockback
Slip joint
All have their different tools.
For Linerlocks, see
Bob Terzuola's book, he has lots of tools and tooling.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 21,855
For a liner lock, this is a pretty nice way to cut the lock slot.
A screw cutting slot arbour
A screw cutting slot arbour
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2008
- Messages
- 814
Reamer and laps for pivot pin.
Bob T. s book covers geometry of the lock bar in detail, and has a lot of tips on jigs and fixtures. Allen Elishewitz "Basic Tactical Folder" DVD is good also.
Bob T. s book covers geometry of the lock bar in detail, and has a lot of tips on jigs and fixtures. Allen Elishewitz "Basic Tactical Folder" DVD is good also.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 5,547
From my limited experience, what I like to have for liner and frame locks:
I second the slotting saw. I use a cobalt saw for titanium.
A set of preferably solid carbide end mills in common sizes, for roughing things to size, slotting, milling angles on things. Maybe also a set of cheap HSS ones for general duty.
A set of clamping blocks, studs, t-slot nuts, etc. A good or at least decent milling vise. An angle vise.
It's nice to have a chuck adapter, for drilling and reaming holes.
A carbide face mill is nice, but IMO not essential. It's good for roughing larger pieces flat.
A dial indicator and a center finder are nice to have.
I second the slotting saw. I use a cobalt saw for titanium.
A set of preferably solid carbide end mills in common sizes, for roughing things to size, slotting, milling angles on things. Maybe also a set of cheap HSS ones for general duty.
A set of clamping blocks, studs, t-slot nuts, etc. A good or at least decent milling vise. An angle vise.
It's nice to have a chuck adapter, for drilling and reaming holes.
A carbide face mill is nice, but IMO not essential. It's good for roughing larger pieces flat.
A dial indicator and a center finder are nice to have.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 5,855
I'd get a set of collets and a second draw bar that has the cone shape cut into it so it will center up in the spindle. I have a mini mill I bought from Harbor Freight and it has an MT2 arbor. I bought a good set of collets and use them a lot for different things. I just used one yesterday to hold a 1/4" spacer so I could sand .023" off it. Worked fine!!
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2004
- Messages
- 3,041
Indicator and know-how to tram your mill dead zero!