My BK-16 Has Finally Arrived.

I'm looking at the Norton stones now. There seems to be quite the selection. As a complete beginner to the world of sharpening, what Norton stone setup would anyone recommend? I'll definitely go with the Fine India Stone. But, what others should I snag as well?

Also, what's a great stone that I can keep in pack for field use? Sorry, for all the questions. There's just so much information to look at once you go down the rabbit hole.
 
The tan colored stone is all you'll need for home or field. Just touch up your edge once a week depending on use. The tan color should be medium-fine grit. If you want a full set up to handle anything get a course, medium, and fine grit 8" stones. Then if you want get a strop. Flexxx strops are awesome.
 
CalmAsHinduCows said:
I'm looking at the Norton stones now. There seems to be quite the selection. As a complete beginner to the world of sharpening, what Norton stone setup would anyone recommend? I'll definitely go with the Fine India Stone. But, what others should I snag as well?

Also, what's a great stone that I can keep in pack for field use? Sorry, for all the questions. There's just so much information to look at once you go down the rabbit hole.
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For touchups, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very nice system.

For reprofiling, the Lansky clamp is a very nice system.

Those two are some of the more commonly recommended systems out there. I've used both, and both are decent. However, nothing taught me as much about sharpening as freehanding has. Now that I better understand the basics, I find freehanding to be faster and more productive... not to mention rewarding.

You could start with the Smith's Tri Hone system, they're available from both online dealers and local hardware stores for <$30. It gives you a course, medium, and fine stone that's more than adequate for 1095 and other less wear resistant steels. I would recommend that you pick up one of those, watch a couple YouTube tutorials, and practice practice practice on a cheap steak knife. Once you feel comfortable enough with the muscle memory of it, you're ready to give it a whirl on your Becker.
 
I looked up some Jerry Fisk videos on youtube. Does anyone have links to favorite sharpening vidoes?
 
I worked in several kitchens and restaurants growing up and I always saw those Tri Hone systems. I didn't know if it was a Smith's or not, but I remember they were huge. And those chefs could get their knives scalpel sharp. Seriously, you could perform surgery with those knives.

I had no idea they were that cheap and effective. I think that's the one I'll pick up for sure. And for my pack/field, I'll probably pick up a medium-fine grit India Stone. Thanks for the help guys!
 
CalmAsHinduCows said:
I worked in several kitchens and restaurants growing up and I always saw those Tri Hone systems. I didn't know if it was a Smith's or not, but I remember they were huge. And those chefs could get their knives scalpel sharp. Seriously, you could perform surgery with those knives.

I had no idea they were that cheap and effective. I think that's the one I'll pick up for sure. And for my pack/field, I'll probably pick up a medium-fine grit India Stone. Thanks for the help guys!
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That's a great place to start, don't hesitate to ask questions in the Tinkering/Maintenance section as you progress.
 
It's a bit pricier, but you can't beat the KME system IMO.

KME3_zps33a56585.jpg
 
I sharpen with sandpaper over a mousepad. I haven't sharpened my BK-10 yet but here is my trail hawk..



And my estwing..
 
Beautiful edges!

Could you elaborate on how you went about getting edges like that? I'm looking at the Council Tool Velvicut Hudson Bay Axe and would love to get an edge like that with a mouse pad and sandpaper.
 
CalmAsHinduCows said:
After watching some Murray Carter videos on YouTube, I was thinking of going with this setup:

http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O

They seem relatively inexpensive and I know sharpening knives is about 99% technique. Can anyone vouch for this setup? I've always liked the idea of water stones over oil for some reason.
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I use that exact same combination stone on my kitchen knives, so believe me when I tell you that you do not want to start learning how to sharpen by freehanding on water stones. Water stones are nifty stones to have on hand, and I like mine, but the fact that they load and dish so quickly doesn't really make them
suitable for beginners. Also, while 1000/6000 are nice for polishing an edge edge, you'll need something at a lower grit anyway to aid in setting the initial bevel for reprofiling or serious maintenance.
 
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calc said:
I use that exact same combination stone on my kitchen knives, so believe me when I tell you that you do not want to start learning how to sharpen by freehanding on water stones. Water stones are nifty stones to have on hand, and I like mine, but the fact that they load and dish so quickly doesn't really make them
suitable for beginners. Also, while 1000/6000 are nice for polishing an edge edge, you'll need something at a lower grit anyway to aid in setting the initial bevel for reprofiling or serious maintenance.
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Ah, ok. I've heard conflicting reports based on what I've been reading then. Some say to start out on water stones, other says to stay far away from them as a beginner. Could 1000/6000 grit stone be paired with say an 800 grit, giving you an all around stone setup? Is there a better grit combination I could use for an all purpose, woods knife?
 
CalmAsHinduCows said:
Beautiful edges!

Could you elaborate on how you went about getting edges like that? I'm looking at the Council Tool Velvicut Hudson Bay Axe and would love to get an edge like that with a mouse pad and sandpaper.
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I'll try and take some pictures when I get home. Basically I made 3 blocks. Used a 1x4 and cut down to 3x8 in length. Then glued down mousepads to fit. I use wet/dry 180/400/600 grit paper and hold them on with rubber bands. Finally I had enough mousepad left and made a 2x8 strop with the rest of the mousepad.
 
CalmAsHinduCows said:
Ah, ok. I've heard conflicting reports based on what I've been reading then. Some say to start out on water stones, other says to stay far away from them as a beginner. Could 1000/6000 grit stone be paired with say an 800 grit, giving you an all around stone setup? Is there a better grit combination I could use for an all purpose, woods knife?
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In the end, you're probably going to branch out from here, so it's not like you're stuck with this sharpening equipment forever. So I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Anyway, if you start with the 800 grit... I'm assuming you watched that Ray Mears video? I think he recommends a similar grit progression. Anyway, that's not a bad idea. But it's pricey, and first starting out, it's best to just keep it cheap until you really have a level of comfort with freehanding and a little more knowledge. Just my $0.02, anyway.

Regarding the grit progression, 800 is fine for getting out any nicks or dents in the edge. Especially given that 1095 is very forgiving and easy to sharpen. But if you have any major damage, you might struggle a bit as it would be very time consuming. As far as how high to progress, I like a polished edge on kitchen and woodworking knives, so I'd continue going a high as you feel comfortable. The real issue is setting a clean apex on your lowest grit and then simply refining it with progressively higher grits. Once that's done, you'll have a decent edge. At some point (IMO) you hit some seriously diminished returns, probably somewhere around 1800 grit. JMO, of course.

As far as sharpening discussion, I'd recommend starting a thread in the Tinkering/Maintenance section since it might get some more relevant input. I believe Jason B. prefers waterstones and is a phenomenal sharpener, so he would be able to give better insight than I.
 
Honestly, from what I've read over the past two days, it says just comes down to technique and practice 99% of the time. I figure if I just stick with one setup and technique for a long time, I'm bound to get better and better.

As of now, I'm probably going with all King stones. I know there are better stones out there, but Kings seem to be more forgiving than most and removes material a little slower. Perfect while I'm practicing.

I have a far better understanding of grits and what each level is capable of now that I've taken time to educate myself. I'll probably start off with the recommended 1000 and 6000 grit King stones. And, I'll pick another King stone up that is probably 800 grit or a little lower. For any major damage and reprofiling, I'll get an even lower grit stone and practice on that. For a flattening stone, I'll go with the Dia-Sharp Extra Coarse, which I could use for my blades as well.

I'll stick with that set up for awhile and see how it works out for me.
 
CalmAsHinduCows said:
Honestly, from what I've read over the past two days, it says just comes down to technique and practice 99% of the time. I figure if I just stick with one setup and technique for a long time, I'm bound to get better and better.
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This is true. With enough practice, you'll be able to achieve solid results with just about anything.

CalmAsHinduCows said:
As of now, I'm probably going with all King stones. I know there are better stones out there, but Kings seem to be more forgiving than most and removes material a little slower. Perfect while I'm practicing.
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They'll be more than adequate, I wouldn't worry about it.

CalmAsHinduCows said:
I have a far better understanding of grits and what each level is capable of now that I've taken time to educate myself.
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Than's the majority of the battle right there. Taking some time to step back and think before doing will help you quite a bit when learning how to sharpen.

CalmAsHinduCows said:
For a flattening stone, I'll go with the Dia-Sharp Extra Coarse, which I could use for my blades as well.
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That'll work. Just be careful when taking it to your blades - they shuck metal off pretty quickly.

Also, you can use a clamp to secure the diafold to a table to use as a benchstone. Just be careful not to use too much pressure and not to wobble, since you'll grind dents into the bevel. This is actually how I sharpen high wear resistant steels - clamped C, F, and EF diafolds.

Your setup should be pretty decent right off the bat.
 
You're still going to need something for a re-curve blade shape if you go with a BK4. I'm going with a rod type set-up. Haven't decided if I want to make one, or buy one though.
 
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