My EDC Kitchen Knife, What’s Yours?

oldmanwilly said:
Ha, I've got the perfect entry: my EDChefXL.

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Otherwise, whatever is in my pocket will usually end up as a paring knife. It's fun to have a bit of variety.
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I need one of those for my butcher block table, love the micarta!
 
My kitchen knives is a 7 knife set of Dexter Russell stainless with the sani safe handles that was given to me about 15 or so years ago. Use for everything from slicing roasts to veggies to cutting a very large watermelon in half. Never have thought that I needed better knives.
 
My buddy chef David Collier made me this custom paring knife in 1095, differentially hardened to produce a hamon line. The handle is purple dyed and stabilized box elder with a layered micarta spacer. I use it multiple times every day when we’re home.
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DaveHS said:
My buddy chef David Collier made me this custom paring knife in 1095, differentially hardened to produce a hamon line. The handle is purple dyed and stabilized box elder with a layered micarta spacer. I use it multiple times every day when we’re home.
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Wow, really nice. The blade and handle profile look great.

So does the food 😂
 
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A thin three-layer blade of AUS-8, sharpened at about 13 degrees per side to 800-1,000 grit. I really like some of the ergonomic handles on modern kitchen knives, except for their small size. The big blocky wa handle looks awkward at first but choking up to the ricasso gets the knife beautifully balanced, so you can cut food for days without getting tired or bored. A laser. The ceramic rod keeps it off the stone for a few weeks, but the steel is not too hard, and it gets used every day. Good knife, very reasonable.
 
Khromo said:
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A thin three-layer blade of AUS-8, sharpened at about 13 degrees per side to 800-1,000 grit. I really like some of the ergonomic handles on modern kitchen knives, except for their small size. The big blocky wa handle looks awkward at first but choking up to the ricasso gets the knife beautifully balanced, so you can cut food for days without getting tired or bored. A laser. The ceramic rod keeps it off the stone for a few weeks, but the steel is not too hard, and it gets used every day. Good knife, very reasonable.
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NICE cutting board.
 
Aardvark said:
NICE cutting board.
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I recently migrated over from some industrial-strength German Bergvogel kitchen knives to much thinner Japanese style blades, sharpened much thinner. I thought the delicate edges might appreciate the mostly end-grain board. It feels softer, and it is easy to clean. If it gets chewed up, I will just plane it down and oil and wax it and start over!
 
Khromo said:
I recently migrated over from some industrial-strength German Bergvogel kitchen knives to much thinner Japanese style blades, sharpened much thinner. I thought the delicate edges might appreciate the mostly end-grain board. It feels softer, and it is easy to clean. If it gets chewed up, I will just plane it down and oil and wax it and start over!
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I have a very nice end-grain maple cutting board that I've lapped, using a 4-inch belt sander. Turned out OK, but a major pain to accomplish.
how do you plane yours down?
 
Aardvark said:
I have a very nice end-grain maple cutting board that I've lapped, using a 4-inch belt sander. Turned out OK, but a major pain to accomplish.
how do you plane yours down?
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I haven't done it yet, but my plan was the 4" belt sander with some brand new silicon carbide paper. That board is really thick, so I don't mind removing a lot of material. Maybe finish up with a flat block and a palm sander. I was hoping fresh SC paper would be able to cut it.

I've got a few planes, but I don't think my skills are up to the end grain!
 
Khromo said:
I haven't done it yet, but my plan was the 4" belt sander with some brand new silicon carbide paper. That board is really thick, so I don't mind removing a lot of material. Maybe finish up with a flat block and a palm sander. I was hoping fresh SC paper would be able to cut it.

I've got a few planes, but I don't think my skills are up to the end grain!
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Thanks.
I wound up laying the cutting board on a running sander (horizontal position) for a few seconds, with gentle downward pressure. Then I'd move the board so that a different part of the board was being sanded. When the entire surface had been sanded, I rotated the board 90 degrees, and repeated the process, until there was no more cupping. Then. went over it with a finishing sander.
Tedious, but eventually it worked.
I wouldn't even consider doing it with a hand plane.
I have a thickness planer, but my research shows people's experiences divided between "sure, I do it all the time" to "don't do it, it'll probably blow up your planer and kill you!". So, I'll pass.
 
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