My experience with Ontario Knives.

[MadeinUsa1]

The past two years I caught the knife bug and started looking at youtube videos and google reviews of knives etc. I started with and ESEE CM-6 and thought that was all I needed. I then purchased a few Buck knives like the 110 and 119. I did this because I was traveling through Idaho and I toured their factory, which if you get the chance do it, you should do it. Overall the Buck knives have been good choices but not to Ontario's value and quality.

Continuing my addiction to knives I had purchased ESEE6, Becker BK7 BK2, Ka-Bar 1317 dogs head and non of those compared to the quality, versatility and price of the Ontario knives I purchased afterwards. I like the Becker knives but for what you get in the sheath, lack of finger choil and slippery handles I do not see the greatness of them for the prices. I had to spend so much extra on new scales and sheaths that I felt there knives were a money pit. I am willing to sell them BTW but that can wait.

I have the RTAK II, RAT7, SP46, 498 Marine, SP1 and SP6 and that is all I need for now. I wish their sheaths were a little better for say the RAT 7 and SP46 but the SP 1, SP6 and 498 Marine sheath is pretty top notch. I wish they still sharpened the top swedge on the SP1 and SP6 but you can do it yourself if you have a little skill.

I found that there is no "perfect" knife so you have to find what works for you.

I wish someone had steered me in the direction towards Ontario knives at the start and I would have not only saved money but found quality and value right from the start and stopped with Ontario. I have to say the RAT 7 is a little better feeling in my hand than the ESEE6. The RTAK II is simply amazing and in my opinion blows the junglas out of the water for value and versatility. Ive used the finger choil on the RTAK II and it can carve if necessary and the sheath is not bad. I love the SP46 skinner and it is better than the BK2 in my opinion and sharp a hell out of the box. The rubber handle of the Ontario SP line is so comfortable and just such a great value I cannot find other words to describe it.

Keep doing what your doing Ontario and just make small adjustments here and there to some of your sheaths and what is included in the knifes you sell and you will out do the competition.

I know others will disagree but I hope someone new to knives starts with the Ontario line and they can save themselves money and frustration from the get go.

 

[OntarioKnifeCompany]

That is awesome to hear. We're updating our products all the time, so you'll see a lot of minor tweaks.

 

[Pilot1]

IMHO, Ontario represents one of the best values, if not THE best value in the quality knife arena. Not flashy, but they don't have to be.

 

[Gun Doc]

I too think Ontario builds high value knives. I do have some comments to offer in the spirit of constructive criticism.

I like the Becker handles, and would like to see a line of full tang blades with similar removable/replaceable handles where there was a common handle, or possibly two, throughout the line. It seems to me that if you have a couple of sizes of handles that work well then it makes sense to use them on a number of blades. It makes production easier. It makes the offering of aftermarket handles in different materials easier. Finally, it encourages those in the secondary market to offer handles. While this may take away from some business in aftermarket handles, I believe it helps sell more complete knives. It is a good thing when you develop a following and people begin to see your knives as a market standard.

I don't own any, but I find many of the Ontario Micarta scales to look a bit too flat sided. Perhaps they feel better than they look. I do own a Bushcraft Woodsman. I would also like to see some more robust and perhaps a bit fuller, shapelier scales on that knife. Micarta would be great.

I bought three new Ontario knives recently (Bushcraft Woodsman and two SP-53's.) I think all of these have the new sheaths. They are nice enough for that style of sheath, but the ESEE Junglas sheath seems to be the gold standard. A sheath needs to stand up to the elements, not retain moisture, especially for a carbon blade, protect the blade, and protect the user in a tumble. Carry options and adjustment of carry height is good, especially for a long blade that may benefit greatly from a dangler style. For a game knife especially, you need to be able to sheath the knife with blood on it, then be able to clean the interior of sheath and knife as soon as possible. Blood is pretty corrosive stuff. A well thought out, premium sheath would certainly result in a higher price, but many who say the Junglas is worth the premium price recognize a good bit of that money is in the sheath. There is a reason there are a good number of people able to (presumably) make a living making sheaths.

I will close saying that I have been impressed with the grinds on the three Ontario knives I recently purchased. I have had experience with and seen less consistency in other US brands. Apparently Ontario is paying attention to QC! I think between Toooj, Dan Maragni, and others, Ontario has things going pretty well!

 

[Roguer]

I'm a bit of an OKC fan one might say. Their value to price point is pretty dang high! For the price of a super uber doober knife I can get several OKC knives of a similar make. Yes one great super uber doober knife is great, but experience has shown me if you forget it or lose it or break it, with out a back up one, its not a good thing.

Some OKC knives I have are a compromise for me. Not having all the things I favor, but they are dang great enough to use and their price point and value over comes my little COD hang ups. The RD line I got most of, is an example. The Clip Point put me off as well the FFG on some, but really for a 1/4" spine thick of 5160 carbon spring steel for blade material is what made me get one at first the RD 7. Seeing how well its a great general purpose blade I got a whole lot of RD6s as they are still in production, I gave most of them away to the relatives I like. Seeing how they needed a real tough general purpose middling sized knife if they ever get in to a survival situation pickle. I don't give my RDs away because of a few things I dislike, I give them away so people I care about will have a tool to serve them if they get in a bad situation. One brother never had to use one and he works for the DNR and knows what he's doing, but he keeps it mollied to his pack for just in case. Another little brother found he can cut up a deer, skinning, bone and such before he needs to lightly touch it up for the next one. Gave a few to nieces, the RD6 is a blade I trust to give to my loved ones. But if you want a saber grind middling knife, the RD Tanto is the one! It competes with my RD 7 for field use. The RAK is also a great stand alone one option even if its 1095 and 3/16 thick. The TFI I just never had use heavily as I just have it for a light carry or a as a back up in case another knife is lost. Those are just some examples of why I'm an OKC happy customer.

I love my SP-51s, I got one of the last of the last production runs this January before it was sunseted. Its the straight edge saber grind, makes it a great batoner and delimber and trail maker and clearer. (I live where black spruce and alder brush and other heavier vegetation is, regular machetes literally just can't cut it around here) And are easier to touch up and sharpen in the field. The SP-53 is the king of choppers and batons as well as the SP-51, I keep mine (several really) near the old farm house or car, unless its needed for a long term camping expedition the relatives drag me off to. I still have issues trying to sharpen that bolo blade. (I use a straight pull through sharpener on it in the field). SP-10 and SP-8 are also great big woods whoppers, I could go on and on and well... The only complaint I have on the SPs is no Thumping and Whumping Hilt! (Some one had a thread about my use of Thumping and Whumping description I type to make a point ) But for the price and quality you get and performance and near unbreakable (You should of seen some the things I put my HEAVY use blades through, note its on STEEL vs WOOD that is!) its a comprise I happily make to be able to have multiple blades rather than one super expensive one. Some are "propositioned" where they are needed, one or two are in reserved, I tried to keep them as a NIB reserve but a few times I had to supply some trail clearers with proper tools.

I got one RAT 7 that is dang addicting to handle, it makes a good light weight blade to have when some one makes you forget your regular carry. (Yeah...thats it!) I will always keep ONE around at least. I never could come around to the RTAKII with its size and FFG mostly and its 3/16th inch thickness. But some one told me the Woodsman chops better when blade length isn't an issue, I got one, I had to choose between the two. I got the one that is just the blade and no fancy fire steel or paracord lanyard, I just wanted the knife! (Didn't know it at the time it was just the knife but the cheaper price made me get it ). The Woodsman was made as an all round woods tool, and it does work as one! The FFG of the blade like an SP-50 was the reason why I never got an SP-50, some thing that size to me a FFG usually doesn't sing to me. BUT with the Woodsman choil, full tang it makes a BIG freaking difference in making it a true all round camp, general use knife that can do some bushy things, not as "WELL" some people will say, but it can do them. To me the Woodsman is a compromise knife I got, not saber grind but I got it for another general purpose all round knife that can do bushy things. I think my RD9s do things a bit better than the Woodsman, but the RD9s are out of production, where I can say I would recommend the Woodsman for a big blade option, with it can do many things, maybe not as super well as a specialize knife, but it can do them. Although I had to add some sports tape to the handle to keep it from being to slickery. A comprise I am willing to make for such an affordable high value product.

A SP-51 version of the Woodsman with a RAT 7 or RTAK II handle with decent choil and a bigger expose pummel for pummeling things I think would be my idea of the perfect big blade. (*Drops HINTS again*)

 

[Yonose]

I can’t understand why we don’t have a 1/4” thick 5160, 17” OAL, sabre ground chopper/backup general purpose knife available. Something like a full tang spear point sp10 in 5160, but with (for weight reduction) either a higher grind, fuller, or slight distal taper— or some combination of the three. Also, around 7/32” thick might be more desirable than a full quarter inch. A no sheath option might lower the cost. “Made in the USA” is something a lot of people drawn to this sort of blade don’t see at all available in the price range Ontario is able to offer. My first Ontario knife was the 498. Since then I’ve bought more Ontario knives than any other brand, from folders and the rat 3 up to the rd9, Woodsman and rtak2, and rd6 and tak models in the middle. This one might be pushing limits or tolerances or whatever, but I wonder if it’s been done before?

 

[Gun Doc]

I get that the Bushcraft Woodsman has a wood (laminated ?) handle to appeal to the bushcraft folks, but a bit fuller Micarta handle would, to me, be a big improvement. I get the feeling I am not alone. I'm keeping my Woodsman NIB until I decide on keeping it or not (generous return time policy from the place I bought it), and the handle is the issue. I know I could simply go with the SP-50, but I really like the concept of a full tang with something other than a "rubber" handle. I get the feeling I am not alone in that, either. Having said that, I really like my SP-53. I even bought a spare. I guess I look at that knife as more of a "tool" than the Woodsman.

 

[Yonose]

I get that the Bushcraft Woodsman has a wood (laminated ?) handle to appeal to the bushcraft folks, but a bit fuller Micarta handle would, to me, be a big improvement. I get the feeling I am not alone. I'm keeping my Woodsman NIB until I decide on keeping it or not (generous return time policy from the place I bought it), and the handle is the issue. I know I could simply go with the SP-50, but I really like the concept of a full tang with something other than a "rubber" handle. I get the feeling I am not alone in that, either. Having said that, I really like my SP-53. I even bought a spare. I guess I look at that knife as more of a "tool" than the Woodsman.

If you paid a good price, I’d say definitely keep it. The handles are a lot easier than Becker’s to replace with homemade micarta or natural wood (no hex nut shape to file on one side) and will be replaced by Ontario if they break(mine broke while batoning a large log). It’s really beautiful even without it’s handles, and tougher than nails. It also fits well in the big brother sheath.
This is the only knife I’ve ever trusted to help me climb, by wedging the pointy end into a rock crevice(handle-less and cord attached) I couldn’t get enough purchase with boots

 

[Gun Doc]

If you paid a good price, I’d say definitely keep it. The handles are a lot easier than Becker’s to replace with homemade micarta or natural wood (no hex nut shape to file on one side) and will be replaced by Ontario if they break(mine broke while batoning a large log). It’s really beautiful even without it’s handles, and tougher than nails. It also fits well in the big brother sheath.
This is the only knife I’ve ever trusted to help me climb, by wedging the pointy end into a rock crevice(handle-less and cord attached) I couldn’t get enough purchase with boots

Yonose,

Thanks for the input. I agree, the Woodsman is a nice blade, even if I am not wild about the handle. I don't mean to argue, but it is true that you can replace the handle scales on a Becker without having to use the same style of hardware, thus avoiding having to create that hex recess on one side.

You have me curious about using your Woodsman to help you climb. I assume you wedged it and then stepped on the flat side of the blade? Also, were you carrying it without the factory handle, or did you remove it in the field when you needed to use the knife for climbing? If you didn't have the factory handle on, what did you have? (I'm trying to figure out if "handle-less and cord attached" means a cord wrapped handle or a lanyard.)

Inquiring minds want to know . . . : )

Thanks,
Gun Doc

 

[Yonose]

Yonose,

Thanks for the input. I agree, the Woodsman is a nice blade, even if I am not wild about the handle. I don't mean to argue, but it is true that you can replace the handle scales on a Becker without having to use the same style of hardware, thus avoiding having to create that hex recess on one side.

You have me curious about using your Woodsman to help you climb. I assume you wedged it and then stepped on the flat side of the blade? Also, were you carrying it without the factory handle, or did you remove it in the field when you needed to use the knife for climbing? If you didn't have the factory handle on, what did you have? (I'm trying to figure out if "handle-less and cord attached" means a cord wrapped handle or a lanyard.)

Inquiring minds want to know . . . : )

Thanks,
Gun Doc

. I had only recently broke the wood-laminate handles; it had a paracord handle,some of which I unraveled so as not to lose the knife. A semi pro climber would ridicule the 10 or 20 things I did wrong, but it was secure enough. Most of the blade fit into the crevasse. My foot was on the flat of the handle. No damage to the knife at all.
Edit: not enough “bending” to scare me back down, though I imagine there was some, but not permanent

 

[Roguer]

I got my Woodsman because of Yonose's experience of the Woodsman is a better chopper than the RTAK II when reach isn't a factor. And for the clean large FFG blade for large carcass work, literal wood working and my step mother already grabbed it for kitchen use when I took it off my belt after pulling in the rabbit snares. "You take a kitchen knife in the woods?" she asked. It will do its jack of all trades and master of none jobs well. I got it for a multi tool and multi task tool. Not a super uber niche one task tool.

But if some one is looking for a good FFG 1/4" 5160 nine inch chopper the RD9 is still available at knife center. That's where I got my two new from. For me it was a compromise blade that I found works well. Same choil and hilt profile of the smaller blades, can do more efficient woodsy stuff than the Woodsman with its choil. Still need to decide what is the better batoner but so far the RD9 seems to out shine it so far. RD9's handle is some what short but micarta, its point is a clip point and not a drop point but that don't seem to effect its batoning abilities with its slightly longer straight edge. After experience with my jack of all trades RD7s the RD9 was just a small step away for me that is. But remember both blades are differnt critters but can do much of the same jobs where one can do better than the other. But both can do both jobs well. They are KNIVES do knife things AND Chop/baton. IT seems your SP-53 (and SP-51s) are choppers that can do knifey things when needed.

 

[Yonose]

I got my Woodsman because of Yonose's experience of the Woodsman is a better chopper than the RTAK II when reach isn't a factor. And for the clean large FFG blade for large carcass work, literal wood working and my step mother already grabbed it for kitchen use when I took it off my belt after pulling in the rabbit snares. "You take a kitchen knife in the woods?" she asked. It will do its jack of all trades and master of none jobs well. I got it for a multi tool and multi task tool. Not a super uber niche one task tool.

But if some one is looking for a good FFG 1/4" 5160 nine inch chopper the RD9 is still available at knife center. That's where I got my two new from. For me it was a compromise blade that I found works well. Same choil and hilt profile of the smaller blades, can do more efficient woodsy stuff than the Woodsman with its choil. Still need to decide what is the better batoner but so far the RD9 seems to out shine it so far. RD9's handle is some what short but micarta, its point is a clip point and not a drop point but that don't seem to effect its batoning abilities with its slightly longer straight edge. After experience with my jack of all trades RD7s the RD9 was just a small step away for me that is. But remember both blades are differnt critters but can do much of the same jobs where one can do better than the other. But both can do both jobs well. They are KNIVES do knife things AND Chop/baton. IT seems your SP-53 (and SP-51s) are choppers that can do knifey things when needed.

I wonder how many they had—it seems like they’re gone again.

 

[Mick P]

I hear you and agree. I have quite a few Ontario knkves and the SP range is unreal. I have put my SP10 through hell and my RAT2 is my fav edc. BUT in the original post he says......that's all I need for now.
We just don't need that kind of negatvity. Thnx for posting.

 

[jamaljahda]

Well until today I only had one ontario knife an sp8 and I love that knife while it is a master of nothing I have used it to chop limbs to but under my tires to get my company truck out of a bog. Well anyway I lost my crkt m16 edc and was in Wal-Mart and saw they had the rat1 I purchased it and while I have not used it extensively yet I am impressed with the fit and finish sharpness out of the box. How beefy it is and how good it feels in the hand. I don't know about edge holding yet but this knife is going to be a user no safe queen so I hope it holds well but if not ill just get more practice sharpening. All in all I really like the knife. The only drawback for me is purely one of personal taste. I think the thumb studs used to open. The knife are a little to far back for my hand. Once open though I love the feel of the handle. Thanks ontario.

 

[Yonose]

I hear you and agree. I have quite a few Ontario knkves and the SP range is unreal. I have put my SP10 through hell and my RAT2 is my fav edc. BUT in the original post he says......that's all I need for now.
We just don't need that kind of negatvity. Thnx for posting.

I’m wondering what you mean by negativity? Wasn’t me was it?— if so it was unintentional, and apologize.

 

[Roguer]

I wonder how many they had—it seems like they’re gone again.

They still got the orange handled one but for a pretty penny. I got another one when I still had money over the RTAK II.

 

[Gun Doc]

I’m wondering what you mean by negativity? Wasn’t me was it?— if so it was unintentional, and apologize.

I think MickP was making a joke that the comment from the Original Poster of "that's all I need for now" was a negative comment. Along the lines of "just buy both", or "you can never have too many" would be considered positive comments on a knife forum.

 

[Zack.Munro21]

I own 4 knives from Ontario, Sp-10 Marine Raider, Sp43 Rifleman, Ranger RAK, and OKC Kukri. The kukri has been put through years of abuse and still has not a single chip or burr on the blade whatsoever! I'm waiting on the rak right now but the others have blown me away with quality and feel. Love Ontario knives , and just like every other buyer , I hate the sheaths. The raider Bowie has a half leather and half woven fabric, so it's probably the best of the lot. If Ontario would offer a Kydex alternative for more cost I wouldn't mind the extra amount for the quality. Keep up the awesome craftsmanship Ontario

 

[Yonose]

I think MickP was making a joke that the comment from the Original Poster of "that's all I need for now" was a negative comment. Along the lines of "just buy both", or "you can never have too many" would be considered positive comments on a knife forum.

Oh, that’s funny, I’m usually pretty quick with dry humor—not having slept has dulled more of my senses than I realized

 

[Yonose]

Yonose,

Thanks for the input. I agree, the Woodsman is a nice blade, even if I am not wild about the handle. I don't mean to argue, but it is true that you can replace the handle scales on a Becker without having to use the same style of hardware, thus avoiding having to create that hex recess on one side.

You have me curious about using your Woodsman to help you climb. I assume you wedged it and then stepped on the flat side of the blade? Also, were you carrying it without the factory handle, or did you remove it in the field when you needed to use the knife for climbing? If you didn't have the factory handle on, what did you have? (I'm trying to figure out if "handle-less and cord attached" means a cord wrapped handle or a lanyard.)

Inquiring minds want to know . . . : )

Thanks,
Gun Doc

I just read that part about altering the Becker handle nut receptor design. If the average Becker owner had to use 2 tools to take off the handle slabs, wouldn’t he or she just buy an Ontario knife instead? In all seriousness though, making that hex nut fit properly is an unhealthy obsession for me. If not for it, I would have finished 12 sets already!