Recommendation? My first Barkriver

Joined
Dec 27, 2017
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9
Hello all,
New to the forum...this being my first post. :) Go easy on me.

I've done a little searching but don't think my question has been addressed exactly.

I hope you can help me make this decision a little less painful. I mean, this really shouldn't be that difficult should it? Damn it Bark River, why do you have so many options!

I believe I have my choice narrowed down to the following knives, from hefty to not so hefty: Bravo 1.25 ---> Camp & Trail ---> Bravo 1.25 LT
You'll notice all have 5" blades.

The two things I'm struggling with are:
1. Do I really need 3V steel? The Camp & Trail is not offered in 3V. If BR didn't offer 3V you could tell me A2 was the best steel in the world and I'd probably be ok with it. :)
2. How strong and sturdy do I need my knife to be? Therefore how thick is thick enough?

The intent of this knife is two fold. It will be used for 60% Camping and Bushcraft, and 40% Hunting big game. This will be my first serious fixed blade knife.

I currently EDC a Benchmade 940. For most drive in camping scenarios I also pack a Gransfors Bruks small forest axe. For hunting I typically carry a Cutco 4" drop point hunter, and a Havalon Torch. I am very fond of the 940 and the GB axe. I won't be replacing those any time soon. I don't like the Cutco much at all. I find the blade won't sharpen to a keen edge, and it only gets worse with little use. One deer later and it needs quite a bit of work to bring back to mediocre. I believe I want this new knife to fit in somewhere between the Cutco and the GB axe.

As far as bushcraft is concerned I don't generally abuse my knife, or any gear for that matter, but I want to be able to rely on it should an emergency present itself. Some light chopping and batoning might be required, but only rarely.

Looking forward to your suggestions!

ps. while I have things narrowed down to these 3 knives, I'm open to other suggestions too.
Thanks.
 
Overall, the main difference you will notice in use between the A2 and 3V is the corrosion resistance of 3V. You may find the A2 to be easier to sharpen, but I think the corrosion resistance will be the bigger factor.
Unless you are really beating on your knife, like trying to break bones, the lightweight knives should be sufficient.

I'd also look at LT Wright and fiddleback forge for similar style knives. Do a bit of a search around here for bark river knives, and Mike Stewart. Everyone has an opinion, and you probably know how the rest of the expression goes, but its worth looking into I think.
 
Most people will never use their camp knife hard enough to need the toughness advantages 3V offers over other steels like A2, O1, or even 1095. What it does offer is a mostly stainless yet tough option for those who don't like patina'd knives and don't want to spend a bit of time keeping the knife clean and dry.

Based on Bark River's history I personally steer clear from them in favor of other brands like LT Wright and Fiddleback, but since the knives I'd recommend to you are a bit more in price than your Bark River options I do not know if they would be welcome suggestions. The Fiddleback Production Duke and the LT Wright GNS or Genesis are very capable knives in capable steels made my high-quality makers and would compare well to the BRKT knives you're looking at, with relatively similar styles (at least the LT Wright knives).

I own a handmade Fiddleback in O1 steel and some Beckers in 1095 as my camp knives, I don't doubt A2 or 3V steels will be tougher than my knives and I have yet to push any of my knives to their breaking point even with an abundance of batoning. Almost all steel will be tougher than the stress an average bushcraft task will put it through, but 3V is the most stainless of the main bushcraft steel options so if you are willing to front the extra money for a lower maintenance steel then it would probably be worth it for you.
 
What size hands do you have? Bark River handles run on the short side vs blade length imo. I wear a XL or 2XL glove and I don't find them comfortable.

O1 or A2 would make a great blade. I wouldn't worry about the latest and greatest steel and the price tag that comes with it (ie. 3V).

I'm not a bushcrafter so most of my blades are 1095, 5120, or 154cm. Have you checked out the TOPS Bob? 1095 or 154CM, it's made in the USA (if that is important for you) and it will save you a few $.

Also check out the custom maker forum here. You might something you like in your price range.
 
If you carry a GB axe for splitting wood ... I would recommend you look at LT Wrights offerings for knives they are my go to for camping and hiking ... if you want a strong well made knife that will fill a role as a hunting knife and still be sturdy enough for some light batoning A2 or AEB-L or 1095 or 52100 would all serve you as well as 3V and are a bit easier to sharpen.

Also LT Wrights to me feel better and the grip is comfortable to use alot from hunting or cooking and camp chores to a little batoning ... but if you have a small axe I would never baton Id use the best tool you have for it.

Bark River has some nice knives but for the cost savings LT Wright ... or if you still want a larger tough knife that will take batoning ... Esee HM series (handles are a bit more comfortable) or Beckers will do it all for much less cost. just MHO.

I carry a folding saw and a GB small axe or hatchet for wood processing ... a 4" to 5" fixed blade and a folder ... and if camping or planning woodcraft work a Mora is always in my pack. And for the cost of a nice 3V Bark River I can almost pay for all the others.
 
I know it’s not on your list but IMO it sounds like you would love a Bark River Aurora in 3V.
It just happens to be my all time favourite knife. It is an amazing camp/bushcraft knife, and also a great hunting knife. It can skin/butcher/bone a deer with ease after you’ve built a temporary hunting camp with it and prepped fire wood.
It’s the jack of all trades of knives. The handle is amazingly comfortable, the blade is the perfect thickness. It’s not too thick and heavy and not too thin and weak.
The high grind makes the knife a great slicer and a great splitter. It’s really the ultimate knife.

You will not be disappointed with the Aurora in 3V.
 
I would favor a SurviveKnife GSO in the four-to-five inch range... complete satisfaction for your uses...
Pretty often found on the Exchange in CPM-20CV or CPM-3V. Either one...
I've owned maybe eight or nine, but recently am using shorter blades for cross-draw casual carry...(no woods-use).
 
I have a number of knives from Mike Stewart's shops including Marbles (52100) and Bark River (A2). His heat treat is absolutely first rate IMHO, naysayers notwithstanding. I'd depend on any of his blades in any steel, any day.
 
I have a number of knives from Mike Stewart's shops including Marbles (52100) and Bark River (A2). His heat treat is absolutely first rate IMHO, naysayers notwithstanding. I'd depend on any of his blades in any steel, any day.
:thumbsup:
Some may find this interesting, some may not. All I can say is that not every rodeo cowboy that makes it to the finals gets there looking pretty but the true champions get up off the ground bloody, dust themselves off and get back in the saddle for the next go around.
 
I have over a dozen BRK knifes using A2, 3V, Cruwear and Elmax I’ve been real happy with all them personally and the heat treat/edge holding has been great. I also really use these knifes they aren’t safe queens.

I really like the Bravo 1 LT with drop point followed by the Gunny’s.
 
My well used, 14 year old BRKT Woodland Special in "A2" with its sloppily shaped handle and not the slightest hint of rust/patina/stain/tarnish.

Mike's reply when asked about it was, "Yeah, we sure made some crap back then."


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I care little about the Mike Stewart drama. If the knife is well made, I like it. 5" knives are a tad long for hunting chores, but they work. I have a Dozier Pro Guides knife in D2 that I use for the purposes you mention. I doubt you'll be doing much chopping if you have the GB with you, but I guess it's nice to have options. People say D2 will chip, but I have not ever had a problem. That said, I don't beat on my more expensive knives unless it's an emergency and that seldom happens.

3V is a great woods knife steel. Been very satisfied with the Bark River A-2. I just wipe them off with oil and in fact keep a oily wipe with me hunting.
 
I have a Bark River Bravo 1, and a Gunny, both in A2. I take care of my knives, so corrosion is not an issue, plus I can sharpen them in the field, or usually just strop, and they are back. If you are going to use the knife for bushcraft, AND field dressing game, I would either get the Bravo Lt, or the Gunny, or Gunny Vortex which is a little longer.
 
First, thank you all for all your suggestions so far!

It looks like I have a lot of reading to do. I didn't realize I'd open a can of worms...
While I do find several BR designs very appealing, it's troubling to me that there is even a slight possibility of dishonesty. This is not an insignificant purchase for me.

I feel like there are some semi-custom options that are on the cusp of affordability, but I'd be sacrificing size and steel quality, compared to BR for the same money. I believe I could make do with a 4.5" blade and a utilitarian build. Quality, form, and function are top priority.

With respect to grind, what is the ideal grind for a multipurpose knife? I see Scandi, Convex, and Flat are very common options by several semi-custom makers.
 
First, thank you all for all your suggestions so far!

It looks like I have a lot of reading to do. I didn't realize I'd open a can of worms...
While I do find several BR designs very appealing, it's troubling to me that there is even a slight possibility of dishonesty. This is not an insignificant purchase for me.

I feel like there are some semi-custom options that are on the cusp of affordability, but I'd be sacrificing size and steel quality, compared to BR for the same money. I believe I could make do with a 4.5" blade and a utilitarian build. Quality, form, and function are top priority.

With respect to grind, what is the ideal grind for a multipurpose knife? I see Scandi, Convex, and Flat are very common options by several semi-custom makers.

Welcome! Where to begin. BRK/Mike Stewart have a "history." Maybe it matters to you maybe it doesn't. Fine either way. They also have a truly "cultish" fanatical following. Which is why they have so many models. Read up on them and decide. If they send out messed up knives (and they do), they fix them. Some people call that great customer service. Again, you decide. :thumbsup:

The point I want to make it this: if you don't know what grind suits your needs best, find out before sinking a buck of money. Get a couple production fixed blades. Get a Mora. Many love them...I hate 'em. I don't like scandi grinds.

I found out by buying one and using it.

Maybe you can get a low priced fixed blade of each of the grinds, then go sink the coin on a semi-custom.

(Or you can just get a convexed Fallkniven F1, which is the best knife ever. :D)
 
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