My first Blur

T

tcc

Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
54
I just picked a Blur and a Ener-G II today. Now I have 3 nice pieces of steel (Shallot). ;)

I have some questions tho.
In the below picture (S60V Blur) you see how the blade sits relatively centered when closed. I was looking at mine and it sits slightly to the right (see other pics) Sorry for the bad quality, just used my cell phone instead of my DSLR :D

IMG_0079.jpg
DSC00498.jpg
DSC00497.jpg


Now is there a way to "realign" this so it is centered or should I take it back? I remember the guy who was showing it too me saying that they "crank" that center screw because he couldn't open it at first and had to loosen it. Does this affect it in any way? *edit* Could the liner lock be pushing on the blade slightly causing this? Seems like it.

Also is there a way to identify that the blade is made from Sandvik 13C26? The sales guy mentioned that anything that is made from Kershaw in the new year is almost always made of Sandvik.

Is there a thread or a link someone can post showing me how to maintain, clean and preserve these knives? I've been reading alot on how people use different kinds of lube but I have no idea what to do (yah, can you tell I'm new to this :D)

TIA
 
there should be a date on the blade somewhere, if it's relatively recent (july 07 and newer?) then it's sandvic
 
Welcome to the forums!

Tweaking the pivot/handle screws might help center the blade a little more, but honestly, if you're going to carry and use it, as long as the blade isn't rubbing against the liners (which it doesn't appear that it is), you should be fine. You've always got Kershaw's CS and warranty to fall back on.

Maintenance? Keep it clean, wipe it down when needed, and use a little Hoppes or Mil-tec in the pivot when needed.

And that first picture of the PERFECTLY centered blade on the S60V looks a bit familiar...
dowhat-1.gif
 
^lol...yah I took it from your thread :D

What's Mil-tec/hoppes?? And how do I put it in the pivot?
 
militec-1 and hoppes (9) are gun and knive oils. do a quick google search and you should find everything you need to know about where to purchase (i got my militec grease from them direct). you would need to remove the pivot screw and the screw housing from the knife and give it some good lube and reinsert.....

brad you be quiet, its 5:30am and i can't think of a better way to explain this :-D
 
SladeGT40 said:
militec-1 and hoppes (9) are gun and knive oils. do a quick google search and you should find everything you need to know about where to purchase (i got my militec grease from them direct). you would need to remove the pivot screw and the screw housing from the knife and give it some good lube and reinsert.....

brad you be quiet, its 5:30am and i can't think of a better way to explain this :-D
Click to expand...

Found the Hoppes (9) at a Bass Pro Shop. Now just have to see if it's in stock at the store :)
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Is there a step-by-step instructions on how to take apart the Blur, Shallot, and Ener-G II and where exactly to lube?

Also, can I use this lube/oil to oil the blades? What exactly is that and why do you do it?

TIA :)
 
Yup, that's Hoppes #9 gun oil. It will work fine for lubricating the pivot/washers. But use it sparingly. A little goes a long way. You can also use it to wipe the blade down. Hoppes also makes a silicon gun rag that works very well for wiping down the blade.

Don't youse guys up there have a wally world, or some gun stores? Probably the cheapest at WW, and most likely cheaper than ordering on-line and paying shipping.

Take your Blur apart. It's not that hard, just make sure the blade is open before you go removing the screws. Step by step instructions: Open blade, remove screws and pivot, and take apart. Once apart, you can clean and oil the blade pivot area, washers and pivot at the same time. Or if you don't want to dismantle the knife, just close the blade half way, and place a drop in between the liners at the top of the pivot area. Then just work the blade open and closed until all that oily goodness works its way down inside the pivot/blade contact area. Really no different or difficult than oiling a hinge...

To answer your last question, it is oil, and we use it to keep the pivot lubricated and to help prevent surface rust on the blade.
 
SPXTrader said:
Don't youse guys up there have a wally world, or some gun stores? Probably the cheapest at WW, and most likely cheaper than ordering on-line and paying shipping.

Take your Blur apart. It's not that hard, just make sure the blade is open before you go removing the screws. Step by step instructions: Open blade, remove screws and pivot, and take apart. Once apart, you can clean and oil the blade pivot area, washers and pivot at the same time. Or if you don't want to dismantle the knife, just close the blade half way, and place a drop in between the liners at the top of the pivot area. Then just work the blade open and closed until all that oily goodness works its way down inside the pivot/blade contact area. Really no different or difficult than oiling a hinge...
Click to expand...

Thanks SPXTrader that helps A LOT :thumbup:

We have a Le Baron and a Bass Pro Shop here and I actually went and picked up the Hoppes 9 and a Birchwood Casey® Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth
96355-f.jpg

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/s..._34243_400004013_400000000_400004000_400-4-13

Is this the Hoppes cloth?
http://www.hoppes.com/products/ca_silicone_cloths.html

Do you think I should return the one I got for this one?
96355-g.jpg

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/s..._55840_400004013_400000000_400004000_400-4-13

Or return the one I got and get the Hoppes cloth?
 
That's the cloth, and I'd be real careful about using anything that's for removing lead. Plus, it's got something in it that's flammable, or it wouldn't have CAUTION: Combustible on the package. Lead solvent is some pretty strong stuff. Personally I wouldn't use it on my knives. Take it back and get the silicone cloth instead. Hoppes or Brichwood, either one.
 
My Speed Bump blade is slightly offset like yours. Its because of the brass washers. One is thicker and larger in diameter than the other. There are no issues, and does not hit the liners so dont worry.
 
Ok, I took a closer look at the Blur and why the blade was not centered and it was because the pivot screw(?) was loose. Took out my trusty torx bits and tightened it up a bit and...BLAMO!! now it's all straight. Guess the guy at the store loosened it too much when he was showing me it. So happy now. Thought it was "defective".
 
tcc said:
Ok, I took a closer look at the Blur and why the blade was not centered and it was because the pivot screw(?) was loose. Took out my trusty torx bits and tightened it up a bit and...BLAMO!! now it's all straight. Guess the guy at the store loosened it too much when he was showing me it. So happy now. Thought it was "defective".
Click to expand...

Excellent, tcc...there's nothing like erasing that initial letdown when things just aren't quite right by a simple solution that solves the problem with less hassle than expected. ;)

Enjoy your Blur! :thumbup:

Ray :)
 
reholli said:
Excellent, tcc...there's nothing like erasing that initial letdown when things just aren't quite right by a simple solution that solves the problem with less hassle than expected. ;)

Enjoy your Blur! :thumbup:

Ray :)
Click to expand...

Yah that's how I felt after noticing it.

I was like :( and then afterwards :D

Is it by luck of the draw when purchasing your knives that you get it stamped with "First Production Run 1 of xxx" or do you specifically request/search/look for knives that have them? I guess I lucked out because my Ener-G II has it and I was happily surprised :D
 
tcc It's by luck of the draw. I bought my Shallot at a local knife store with 1 of 500 on the blade, It was their only one. I looked at 3 of their other shallots and nothing was on the blade. They said that their supplier gets a few with 1 of 500 and they send them out randomly. I bought that one. :)
 
Seeing the NICE LOOKING S60V on another thread, I was led to wonder:
(I have never held one)
How hard is it to open? With no flipper, overcoming the spring, could be a tough task with just the stud??Yes?/ No?
 
No. Lightning fast. It's a natural movement for your thumb, the same movement as you'd use to flip a coin.
 
tcc, I had the exact same problem with my Blur, and I'm certain it's because of the liner lock pushing on the blade, as you suspected. I tightened the pivot screw slightly, which moved the blade toward center but not all the way there. To get the blade perfectly centered, I'd have to tighten the pivot screw such that the blade couldn't open easily, if at all. I wish I knew how the blade got so perfectly aligned in the picture you posted for comparison.

When it comes to tightening the pivot screw, I noticed that there's a very small difference between just right and too tight, so I also applied a tiny amount of medium strength thread locker (blue Permatex) to keep the pivot screw at this exacting but ideal setting. Now it's closer to center, so I don't have to worry about the blade scraping the inside of the handle. Also, notice that when you place your thumb against the blade to open or close it (assuming the knife is in your right hand), you push the blade away from the inside of the handle, which ensures you won't scrape the blade even if it is off-center with only a little clearance between it and the handle.

Seems like designing this knife with larger diameter washers on the pivot screw would have fixed this flaw.
 
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