My First BM, 275 Adams - Disapointing Axis Lock.

I rotate the BM275 in my edc at work alot, it's a tank of a knife..

Built tuff, I recommend taking 1000grit sandpaper and lightly smoothing the ruff edges on it out. Or if you play with it enough you will get used to it.

I didn't like the thumb studs on my Sebenza when I first got it but over time your thumb becomes accustomed to ruff surfaces.
 
fzla226 said:
BM is sending out parts now?
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With where he's at, he noted shipping was around $80. I am assuming BM is sending the parts in this instance to avoid what would otherwise be a very expensive shipping label because Benchmade is awesome like that! :)
 
Overall after shipping & local customs fee the knife was 310$
so beside sore thumb, the wallet sore as well.

but ill let it braking in hoping i get used to this lock.
time & new smoother studs will tell.
(left stud is especially obnoxious)
 
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My friend it sounds to me like you have soft hands but I do hope the smothered out version they sendyou feel better. Sounds like the axis might not beforyou. For me it's the best aside from the spring failures. I like how I can disengage and have the blade fall free to open or close. I also like I'm not crossing my thumb in front of a scalpel like you do to disengage a frame or liner lock. Good luck. Try to see the good.
 
Just my .02 on the Axis lock problem... I had a similar problem on one of my 580's. I disassembled it right down to the springs, and when I put it back together, the Axis-lock bottom took a LOT of effort to disengage. Turns out that the two sides were very slightly misaligned, so it interfered with the movement.

To fix it, I just loosened the screws a little and started moving the axis lock back and forth until it moved freely. Tightened the screws, works like a champ.
 
Panta said:
hello
im small collector (10+ knifes)
and i have blades from all big knife companies.
it was first experience with BM and i was very curios how it will be
since BM is well known knife company for quality knifes.

however
i open the box & took it to hand i immediately
noticed just how damn sharp are the axis lock buttons, really abrasive..
to the point i just put the knife down, i try closing & opening several times
later thinking i try it again, but it left me with irritated & sore fingers.

it is also not so easy to close it one handed,
i understand the 275 omega lock is extra thick,
and probably would be assayer with bit of practice
and after it would have loosens up, but

the axis lock studs are a pain to handle
and ruining the hole knife experience for me and its a shame its impressive knife.

it's most expansive knife in my collection & by far the most uncomfortable & abrasive.

is that normal for axis lock, or normal at all for A BM knife, or for 275 adamas?

PS i head the axis lock LOCKED up open completely one time & needed alot of force to disengage it.


disappointing.
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I own a Benchmade 2750, STOP and oil the action. I had that problem upon first receiving it now it works beautifully. My locking bar is not abrasive, but if it bothers you could sand the edges of the locking bar (Rust forming I imagine would not matter because not load is on the outside of the locking bar (?blueing pen?)). You must remember this knife was designed for the RANGERS, who sometimes use gloves. So yes it can be uncomfortable but it had to work with gloves so the jimping had to be sharp. This can be a positive with us civilians when we work outdoors and the woods. I EDC the auto version and you will get used to it and won't notice it. Enjoy your sweat knife. Sorry if I don't sound kind I don't mean to be.
 
Elefantener said:
I own a Benchmade 2750, STOP and oil the action. I had that problem upon first receiving it now it works beautifully. My locking bar is not abrasive, but if it bothers you could sand the edges of the locking bar (Rust forming I imagine would not matter because not load is on the outside of the locking bar (?blueing pen?)). You must remember this knife was designed for the RANGERS, who sometimes use gloves. So yes it can be uncomfortable but it had to work with gloves so the jimping had to be sharp. This can be a positive with us civilians when we work outdoors and the woods. I EDC the auto version and you will get used to it and won't notice it. Enjoy your sweat knife. Sorry if I don't sound kind I don't mean to be.
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I think you may have missed part of the thread :)

His knife has AXIS bars which are unusually sharp as they should not be scratching wood like they are, and Benchmade has sent him a replacement. I tried to replicate that with about 20 Benchmades I had that were closest to me and none of them did anything near to wood what his did, even with lighter pressure.
 
pnsxyr said:
I think you may have missed part of the thread :)

His knife has AXIS bars which are unusually sharp as they should not be scratching wood like they are, and Benchmade has sent him a replacement. I tried to replicate that with about 20 Benchmades I had that were closest to me and none of them did anything near to wood what his did, even with lighter pressure.
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Thank you
 
pnsxyr said:
A good lubricant will help here a lot (Nano Oil's thicker weight lube or DuPont Extreme Fluoro, for example).
.
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well i have mechanical oil which didn't help, but silicone spray oil made it smoother
is silicone spray oil is good enough, or nano oil will be any better ?

thanks.
:thumbup:
 
Call Benchmade, they'll take care of you if there's a problem.

Are you using both sides of the axis bar , or just one size?
I had an Adamas for a short time and didn't find this to be true at all.
 
WCEDC said:
Call Benchmade, they'll take care of you if there's a problem.

Are you using both sides of the axis bar , or just one size?
I had an Adamas for a short time and didn't find this to be true at all.
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one side is harder, and im not sure its good for the knife
maybe it could cause uneven ware..

but finally the lock smoothed after hundreds of openings
and the blade does not hang stuck open when lock disengages.

think i lost my feeling in my thumb, i can see my finger print erased
where the thumb come in contact with the left nasty stud.

i think i will like it better after i get replacement studs,
but im still not to keen on my pinkeye getting notched by the pocket clip
i think this knife is a better fit for big hands,
and it would not put so much pressure on just the pinkeye if
you could get more fingers on it & still reach the studs.
 
Panta said:
well i have mechanical oil which didn't help, but silicone spray oil made it smoother
is silicone spray oil is good enough, or nano oil will be any better ?

thanks.
:thumbup:
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I have not used a lot of silicone sprays, but thus far, I've not really found anything as good as Extreme Fluoro, and most other lubricants are far and away from even being in the same ballpark.

Extreme Fluoro on both sides of the PB washers of an AXIS lock, at the metal contact points where the lock bar makes friction with the steel liners and blade, on the omega springs, and on the outside of the pivot makes AXIS more smooth and consistent than a Chris Reeve Sebenza. It also greatly reduces wear over long periods of usage. And unlike most lubricants I have used, it resists migration and evaporation so it will run the knife equally smooth for months on end without progressively losing the smooth opening and slowing returning to not as smooth, ultimately resulting in a need for more frequent application with a liquid product, and excessive fouling.

The other reasons I like it is due to it's ability to bind with metal and not attract dirt like most wet lubricants and most greases do. It addresses the primary issues with grease (fouling up, poor initial performance, and poor cold performance) while still maintaining the many advantages grease has over a spray or wet lubricant.

You don't hear about Extreme Fluoro much in the knife world, but it is hugely popular in many industrial applications where a good lubricant is mission critical to avoid wear/damage, like with couplings, high sped bearings, and ceramic bearings. It sounds like a very small detail, but upon application the difference it makes is immediately clear and it becomes hard to use anything else. I like Nano's products and I like their grease a lot, but I still don't think it compares to Extreme Fluoro.
 
pnsxyr said:
I have not used a lot of silicone sprays, but thus far, I've not really found anything as good as Extreme Fluoro, and most other lubricants are far and away from even being in the same ballpark.

Extreme Fluoro on both sides of the PB washers of an AXIS lock, at the metal contact points where the lock bar makes friction with the steel liners and blade, on the omega springs, and on the outside of the pivot makes AXIS more smooth and consistent than a Chris Reeve Sebenza. It also greatly reduces wear over long periods of usage. And unlike most lubricants I have used, it resists migration and evaporation so it will run the knife equally smooth for months on end without progressively losing the smooth opening and slowing returning to not as smooth, ultimately resulting in a need for more frequent application with a liquid product, and excessive fouling.

The other reasons I like it is due to it's ability to bind with metal and not attract dirt like most wet lubricants and most greases do. It addresses the primary issues with grease (fouling up, poor initial performance, and poor cold performance) while still maintaining the many advantages grease has over a spray or wet lubricant.

You don't hear about Extreme Fluoro much in the knife world, but it is hugely popular in many industrial applications where a good lubricant is mission critical to avoid wear/damage, like with couplings, high sped bearings, and ceramic bearings. It sounds like a very small detail, but upon application the difference it makes is immediately clear and it becomes hard to use anything else. I like Nano's products and I like their grease a lot, but I still don't think it compares to Extreme Fluoro.
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i assume it will work well with all my other knifes and will not
be corrosive to coating or DLC coating, but i wonder how will it work with IKBS bearings, i got 1 knife with it
(separated bearings)

i couldn't find any reviews for it on amazon.
 
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so, i got the parts today.
this was my first disassemble axis lock benchmade ..

it was very tricky putting it back together.
and i took no chances and draw a scheme of the knife on paper
and all the screw's & parts was put on the drawing as to match every part back 100%.
the omega spring which i was thinking will give me trouble was very easy to handle
but, putting it back together was about 3 and a half hours!!!

thats because it was very tricky sliding the d-nut pin the with axis lock inside
when the g-10 scale was on, so i took many brakes from it ...
so to avoid frustration or rushing it..
after many road blocks Ive eventually figured it out
and im happy blade alignment is perfect & knife working & smooth same as new :)

pictures from the axis lock studs replacement.




















blade alignment is dead on :)


SO, did the replacement part was better?
i would have to say it wasn't a total change, the right side stud feels better
but left side stud is not big change, it is still abit abrasive but what i think
by now after maybe (500) opening and closing my skin maybe getting used to it.
it is what it is, it's not as smooth as i wished it would be or as the right stud..
and my pinkie still getting notched deeply from the clip, but that's because the way the knife is designed
its a 2 handed closing with out a pocket clip, and not a sit at home "fondling knife".
 
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