My First Busse

Lenny

Lenny

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 15, 1998
Messages
2,454
OK, I think I'm ready for a Busse.
I've never seen one so I have a few questions first.
Seems like the price difference between the Basics and the Combat line is minimal, considering the improvement in handle ergonomics and the INFI over the Mod INFI. The one thing I am concerned about is sharpening. I know the edge is different than normal convex, or hollow grind blades, but I just can't picture it. Is it a chisel shape? Do both sides get sharpened? Is it field sharpenable? What's the best sharpener for this edge? I'm terrible at freehand sharpening, so I need something that is relatively easy to resharpen.
Next, I know the Battle Mistress is too big for my intended uses (camping chores, backpacking, etc). But I can't decide between the 2 smaller knives, Natural Outlaw and Steelheart. Looks like the Steelheart can do some chopping if called upon. How about the Natural Outlaw? Does anyone have any experience chopping with this smaller blade?
Sorry for the newby questions, but I've been away from the forumn since that distasteful discussion between the Busse afficionados, and that other group that worships the Angry Hound blades.
Thanks in advance, and feel free to include any other info that might make my decision easier.
 
Lenny, the edge is not chisel ground. It is a dual ground edge. One side is flat and the other convex. As for field sharpening, it was designed to make this easier.

There are lots of back posts with information on sharpening inclding pictures of the edge, suggesting on equipment etc. . A search will turn up many relevant threads.

-Cliff
 
Okay Lenny, let's see how much help I can be:

1. As Cliff said the edge is convex on on side, regular flat on the other. Technically this makes it easier to field sharpen as you only sharpen the flat side, wiping the burr off the convex. I have had mixed results but after much talking with Jerry Busse I believe the problems were mine not the edge geometry I ended up grinding off the convex edge). I have two Busses on order, both are convex and I will keep them convex.

2. "Looks like the Steelheart can do some chopping if called upon." Welcome to the world of understatment. I have a Basic #7 (same dimensions as the SH but 5 oz. lighter) and I've used that to chop down small trees - 3" diameter - and delimb them like it was nothing. A SH or NO will be more than sufficient for chopping. Can't wait to see what my BM does when I get it!

Hope this answers your questions, anymore, just let me know.
 
Having just become a Busse Combat Basic owner last week, I can only comment on that line. I had much the same questions as you, and only handling the knife answered them.

First, the edge grind is quite subtle: you have to look for the differences to find them. In fact you would probably notice it first while cutting, as its asymmetry affects the direction of the cut. You can see the edge most clearly at the point: looking down from the spine side, rotate the point gradually toward the vertical. As the beginning of the edge comes into view you'll see the difference. Jerry Busse has commented on this in this forum: the edge looks offset because it IS slightly (and deliberately) offset.

Since the blade as supplied is quite sharp, you probably won't be resharpening it soon in normal use. But when you do, follow the directions and field sharpening should be easy: that's one of the reasons Busse adopted this edge geometry. When a major resharpening is needed I plan to try it myself, with a $5 factory resharpening as a safety net if I can't restore the original edge.

You didn't ask about the Kydex sheath: I find it fits well and adapts to my uses. My only suggestion for the designer would be to consider a clip rather than a belt loop. Since the belt loop attaches to the sheath proper with three small bolts, the clips could be used alternatively.

You also didn't ask about the handle: it's as good as almost everybody in this forum says it is. It's easy to forget about because it's so well done.

You probably do well to avoid the "Angry Hound" controversy, or at least read the comments with a certain detachment. Neither of these makers came to prominence except by innovating and making products of excellent quality that many users want, and both deserve your attention. But investigate each and form your own opinion.

Ken Delavigne
 
Thanks guys for the info. I need to do a search for the sharpening threads now. I hope Santa Claus is monitoring this thread cuz I'm really Jonesing for a Busse for Christmas.
Lenny
 
OK, I just did the search and I'm more confused now. I saw the drawings of the edge configuration at http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum39/HTML/000317.html
and concluded that I'm stupid. Pertaining to these drawings, what direction am I looking at the blade to see this.
Is the blade flat all the way from the edge to the spine? And then do you merely lay this flat edge on a stone at 0 degrees and hone or what?
Help educate the "edge challenged".
Thanks
 
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