- Joined
- Jan 13, 2013
- Messages
- 321
Mbay,
I used my bk21 to remove hundreds of dead pine branches, probably put 6-10 hours of swinging time on it. It worked like a charm (yes, a chain saw would have been quicker but I don't have one and I wanted to test this Reinhardt splendor)
Here's what I learned.
1) a lanyard is a must for any swinging piece of sharp steel. There was a really informative post awhile back that showed a really good design that used paracord and a rubber Bibb washer so you could adjust it. The method to hold it was important in that thread; hold your palm up, hang the lanyard on your thumb and roll your wrist and grab the handle. Works really well compared to simply placing the lanyard on your wrist.
2). For smaller branch light cuts, the snap technique isn't needed, for heavy ones it is needed and is safer than swinging with your arm to get leverage;more accurate too.
3). "Kinetic Badness" can occur when:
A). The kukri blows past the object being cut and continues on its way to you. The snap cut reduces this issue since your long arm isn't driving it: just the radius from your wrist to the tip matters and your wrist can't extend that far anyway.
B). "A" happens and your opposite arm isn't behind your back.
C) The blade deflects off an object and changes direction from its trajectory you were planning on. To you. Close to that opposite arm that wasn't tucked in behind your back.
4) Mr. Beckers handle is absolutely ideal for this tool. I always thought it needed to be rougher so I sandblasted it and would use inner tubes for a nonslip grip on my other large Beckers. This may be true for careful slicing. For chopping, that smooth handle is ideal (with the lanyard), no hotspots and promotes exactly the right amount of "solidly loose grip" for extended use. I never felt like I didn't have control. When you adjust the lanyard just so, it's very safe. (Assuming you've avoided "Kinetic Badness" per A) thru C).
5). 45 degree chops to the grain are the ideal balance between avoiding deflections and maximizing cutting depth
I spent time reading about safe kukri usage thanks to the contributions of forum members so there were no "Kinetic Badness" close calls, thank God. I convexed the blade on a belt sander and was stunned at the increase in performance over the factory edge. Even after the chopping hours, you could only detect very small decrease in sharpness, only some small micro dings a fingernail could detect, a quick touch up on the belt sander restored it to receipt paper push cutting performance. Later, I ordered a 710 dangler sheath to perfect the rig. What a beautifully functional sheath, top notch craftsmanship! Thanks Julio. Thanks Mr. Becker. Thanks Mr. Reinhardt.
Oh yeah, one more thing. The aesthetics on that thing are simply beautiful, what an elegant shape, modern art!
I used my bk21 to remove hundreds of dead pine branches, probably put 6-10 hours of swinging time on it. It worked like a charm (yes, a chain saw would have been quicker but I don't have one and I wanted to test this Reinhardt splendor)
Here's what I learned.
1) a lanyard is a must for any swinging piece of sharp steel. There was a really informative post awhile back that showed a really good design that used paracord and a rubber Bibb washer so you could adjust it. The method to hold it was important in that thread; hold your palm up, hang the lanyard on your thumb and roll your wrist and grab the handle. Works really well compared to simply placing the lanyard on your wrist.
2). For smaller branch light cuts, the snap technique isn't needed, for heavy ones it is needed and is safer than swinging with your arm to get leverage;more accurate too.
3). "Kinetic Badness" can occur when:
A). The kukri blows past the object being cut and continues on its way to you. The snap cut reduces this issue since your long arm isn't driving it: just the radius from your wrist to the tip matters and your wrist can't extend that far anyway.
B). "A" happens and your opposite arm isn't behind your back.
C) The blade deflects off an object and changes direction from its trajectory you were planning on. To you. Close to that opposite arm that wasn't tucked in behind your back.
4) Mr. Beckers handle is absolutely ideal for this tool. I always thought it needed to be rougher so I sandblasted it and would use inner tubes for a nonslip grip on my other large Beckers. This may be true for careful slicing. For chopping, that smooth handle is ideal (with the lanyard), no hotspots and promotes exactly the right amount of "solidly loose grip" for extended use. I never felt like I didn't have control. When you adjust the lanyard just so, it's very safe. (Assuming you've avoided "Kinetic Badness" per A) thru C).
5). 45 degree chops to the grain are the ideal balance between avoiding deflections and maximizing cutting depth
I spent time reading about safe kukri usage thanks to the contributions of forum members so there were no "Kinetic Badness" close calls, thank God. I convexed the blade on a belt sander and was stunned at the increase in performance over the factory edge. Even after the chopping hours, you could only detect very small decrease in sharpness, only some small micro dings a fingernail could detect, a quick touch up on the belt sander restored it to receipt paper push cutting performance. Later, I ordered a 710 dangler sheath to perfect the rig. What a beautifully functional sheath, top notch craftsmanship! Thanks Julio. Thanks Mr. Becker. Thanks Mr. Reinhardt.
Oh yeah, one more thing. The aesthetics on that thing are simply beautiful, what an elegant shape, modern art!
