My first go round...

B

Broomhead

Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
335
Here is my first go around.

Steel: Lawn mower blade that I heat treated as 1095 with multiple oil quenches. With a vinegar forced patina.
OAL: Just under 6".
Blade: 2.75"
Scales: Scrap Aspen that was in the shed. Dyed with RIT dye and hand finished with Armorall/Tru-Oil mixture.
Pin/Thong hole: 5/32" copper wire and 3/8" copper water tubing.


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Critiques? I'm thick skinned and I need to learn.


Second knife is coming along nicely...
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So what do you figure the hardness too be ?
Not a bad go ,, what tools to take the steel down with .?
 
I have no idea on the hardness. How can I tell?

I used an angle grinder to cut the rough shape. Then, picked up a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt/5" disc grinder/sander for the profiling. It's not the best on the market, but I'm getting the hang of using it. I also used double-cut and bastard mill files.
 
I actually did most of the initial shaping by clamping my angle-grinder to my bench and using a grinding wheel.
 
That looks nice. Personally I prefer to have the blades beveled on both sides.

- Paul Meske
 
Hardness .
If theres a metal fab shop around they may have a tester to give you an idea what you have..It only takes a few seconds to check..
Theres also Makers on here who offer file sets time to time.. I think around $100.00 for a set..
I am with lonepine both side beveled ...
Greg
 
Welcome to shop talk.

Hunter looks good.

Second knife????? I don't know.
Critiques:
The shape looks uncomfortable to use.
The handle will eat up your hand with blisters.
That point sitting right at your knuckle? - what do you have against your index finger? - Round that thing off or you will see blood!
A lawn mower blade is 100% guaranteed not to be knife steel.
How did you do the HT?

Compliments:
The work is excellent.
With a little refinement, it should make a good camp chopper.
I like the kata-kiri-ha blade ( single side bevel).
The cut out make what would be a clunky blade and gives it some style.
 
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On the second blade.

It looks like a fun project but it is so important to use a steel that can be heat treated properly.

Never have a sharpen point on a knife pointing toward your hand..... Grind that point down.

The big knob on the back...... is well a big knob.

The chisel grind makes a great tool/knife

Get yourself some good steel and you will be much happier. You might be able to pick up some A2 at a local Machine tool supplier and then send it out for heat treat.

Keep up the good work!
 
bladsmth said:
How did you do the HT?
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Haven't done the 2nd knife's HT yet, but plan on doing it similar to the first. I have read multiple places that mower blades are in the 10XX range, like 1085 or 1095. The cutout was already in the blade, I designed around it.

AVigil, I re-profiled the butt and got rid of the knob. Also, I made it a smoother transition from finger choil to handle.

Rounded the point at the rear of the blade as well.
 
I'm not sure where you read that lawn mower blades are 10XX steel and similar to 1085-95. I would toss that book and get one with better info :)

Lawn mower blades are low carbon high alloy steel that has high impact resistance and toughness. Hardness is a bad thing in a mower blade, so they don't make the steel hardenable to more than the mid 40's.

There are specialty blades for industrial mowers made in tool steel ( very expensive), but 99.9% of all the blades you will come by will be a nickle/chrome alloy with about 45 points of carbon.
 
This is what American innovation is all about. People doing their own thing in garages, sometimes getting it right, sometimes making mistakes, but always learning and doing something just a bit different than the rest of the world.

I'll admit I'm not a fan of the blades with the hard angles (I prefer curves), but I do admire your ability to think beyond traditional design limitations and include things like the cutout as an integral part of your design.
 
Great job! Excellent work on your first knife!


As mentioned the lawnmower blade is probably not knife steel, the $50 knife book mentions it being used and is very misleading.

1095 is water hardening, you need a special oil for it... another thing that books is misleading about. I just wanted to point that out, when I started out I though all steels were oil hardening..

I like the use of found materials on the first one, nice overall job!

Chisel grinds are my favorite grind for high performance.


Thanks for taking the time to post, listen to the feedback here and your knives will get better and better! I see a lot of potential and your first looks better than many peoples 20th blade, keep at it!
 
tryppyr said:
This is what American innovation is all about. People doing their own thing in garages, sometimes getting it right, sometimes making mistakes, but always learning and doing something just a bit different than the rest of the world.

I'll admit I'm not a fan of the blades with the hard angles (I prefer curves), but I do admire your ability to think beyond traditional design limitations and include things like the cutout as an integral part of your design.
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Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Great job! Excellent work on your first knife!

Thanks for taking the time to post, listen to the feedback here and your knives will get better and better! I see a lot of potential and your first looks better than many peoples 20th blade, keep at it!
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Thank you for the compliments, they mean a lot.

Thank you everyone for taking the time to critique and sharing your knowledge. As soon as I get some fundage I'll be buying two 4' lengths of 1084 from Aldo. What thickness and width do y'all recommend?

I really like using found steel, but I do see that starting out I need to use known steel. I'll finish out the second through trial and error, but my 3rd will be with 1084.

I like chisel grinds because, frankly, they're easier to do. However, I liked them before I started making knives, too. I will be making a bubble jig so I can challenge myself with other grinds.
 
Good choice.

A note to you that knifemaking is not kid friendly. the tools, materials, dusts, chemicals, and sharp objects make for many child hazards. Find a safe place away from the kids to work, and keep it clean and secured. Dust your clothes off before going inside where the kids play. Teach the children to respect the knives and the shop as really nice things that are not toys. When they are ready let them watch and later on, help. Safety gear is a must for you and for them. A respirator, eye/face protection, and hearing protection should be the first things you do when entering then shop.

Send me an email and let me know the size of knives you want to make. I'll send you a bar of 1084.
sapelt@cox.net
 
bladsmth said:
Good choice.

A note to you that knifemaking is not kid friendly. the tools, materials, dusts, chemicals, and sharp objects make for many child hazards. Find a safe place away from the kids to work, and keep it clean and secured. Dust your clothes off before going inside where the kids play. Teach the children to respect the knives and the shop as really nice things that are not toys. When they are ready let them watch and later on, help. Safety gear is a must for you and for them. A respirator, eye/face protection, and hearing protection should be the first things you do when entering then shop.

Send me an email and let me know the size of knives you want to make. I'll send you a bar of 1084.
sapelt@cox.net
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Thanks for the safety reminder. I'm setting up shop in my shed that stays locked when I'm not in there. The only time I work on knives is when my wife takes over with the kids sometimes after she gets off work.

You are the man! An email is on it's way. Thank you so much!!
 
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