My first holster

[Triton]

Thought I would post this up and see what you guys think. There are some errors in it, for example I didn't think to try to burnish the edges until after I had put the thing together, but on the whole I'm pretty pleased with how this first effort came out. This one was made for my carry gun. The next one will be for a paddle holster I think, and I may try wet forming it to the gun rather than tooling it this time. Any obvious tricks I should be doing?

Thanks!View attachment 501496

 

[IVANKERLEY]

having only made 2 holsters im far from an expert but ya did good, in the future ya wanna bevel your edges an burnish as you said
i wouldve probably stitched up to where your rivet is, and used a screw type post
I think ya did a good job on it, and not an easy holster (clip) to pull off
Gene

PS my first holster was a mexican loop fairly easy to pull off, holster went well but doing the belt darn near killed me

 

[Triton]

having only made 2 holsters im far from an expert but ya did good, in the future ya wanna bevel your edges an burnish as you said
i wouldve probably stitched up to where your rivet is, and used a screw type post
I think ya did a good job on it, and not an easy holster (clip) to pull off
Gene

PS my first holster was a mexican loop fairly easy to pull off, holster went well but doing the belt darn near killed me

Thanks Gene, I appreciate it. Is there any particular advantage of using the screw post? I've got some and I thought about it... maybe next time. I agree I should have added some more stitching as well. Thanks for the thoughts!

 

[sheathmaker]

Don't use Rivets, particularly splash rivets. Some extra stitching won't take that much more time and will look a lot better.
Chicago screws can sometimes be used for adjustable tension, but it is still not something I would do or recommend. I also think if the belt clip could had been fed through a slot hiding the square base and then the rectangle stitched to the sheath….. it may have looked much nicer…..but all these things are just nit picking. You did a good job and the next one will be even better! By the way your tooling, especially with the geometric you chose is very good.

Paul

 

[Triton]

Don't use Rivets, particularly splash rivets. Some extra stitching won't take that much more time and will look a lot better.
Chicago screws can sometimes be used for adjustable tension, but it is still not something I would do or recommend. I also think if the belt clip could had been fed through a slot hiding the square base and then the rectangle stitched to the sheath….. it may have looked much nicer…..but all these things are just nit picking. You did a good job and the next one will be even better! By the way your tooling, especially with the geometric you chose is very good.

Paul

Thanks Paul, that is a VERY good idea about feeding the clip through a slot next time, drat, I wish I had thought of that! Good thoughts about the rivet as well I'll definitely cease and desist with those. I'm thinking I will do a knife sheath to match next and see how that turns out.

In general, where do you guys around here get your belt clips (if you get them I guess?) I got this one at Tandy but wasn't entirely excited about it, if there are better sources I'd love to know about them.

 

[Icewind]

i think it´s very nice work:thumbup:

 

[Horsewright]

Nice work Triton. I use a lot of those clips and I've found the ones from Weaver to be very reliable. Just heck for stout. On a holster do your edging first of all edges that you won't be able to get too afterwards. You've got that figured out now. On a design note I'd of tried to put the clip a little further forward and up on the holster. On a IWB type holster I like the grip to ride right at the top of the waist edge of the pant if ya can. More secure and less to print, less of that top heavy feeling, particularly on a short bbl gun like your Springfield. On the tooling make a border for the bottom too like you did at the top. Looks like you might have made some design changes after the tooling? If so cool. I can remember doing that more than once years ago. After cutting out the holster I will make a "dry fit" to the gun prior to stamping. That allows me to make any further trimming changes I might need to make. Then stitching grooves and then stamping. On most of my IWB holsterslike this I will make it out of very light veg tan, say 5/6oz stuff. I'll make it rough side out with smooth side against the gun. Very comfortable for the wearer, less bulk.

 

[Triton]

i think it´s very nice work:thumbup:

Thanks, I appreciate it!

 

[Triton]

Nice work Triton. I use a lot of those clips and I've found the ones from Weaver to be very reliable. Just heck for stout. On a holster do your edging first of all edges that you won't be able to get too afterwards. You've got that figured out now. On a design note I'd of tried to put the clip a little further forward and up on the holster. On a IWB type holster I like the grip to ride right at the top of the waist edge of the pant if ya can. More secure and less to print, less of that top heavy feeling, particularly on a short bbl gun like your Springfield. On the tooling make a border for the bottom too like you did at the top. Looks like you might have made some design changes after the tooling? If so cool. I can remember doing that more than once years ago. After cutting out the holster I will make a "dry fit" to the gun prior to stamping. That allows me to make any further trimming changes I might need to make. Then stitching grooves and then stamping. On most of my IWB holsterslike this I will make it out of very light veg tan, say 5/6oz stuff. I'll make it rough side out with smooth side against the gun. Very comfortable for the wearer, less bulk.

Thanks, for the insights. I'll have to look into Weaver. Weaver leather I guess? I'll google it up. I was torn on the border on the bottom because I didn't know how I could end the stamps properly, the way it is I could run them off the edge. Thinking about it some more, I guess I could have just started them at the bottom above the border and run them up like I did. I see what you mean about the clip as well, I haven't actually worn this one much yet, but I think you are right about how it will ride. I did think about reversing the leather from a completely practical standpoint, but I wanted to tool it so...

I really do appreciate all the thoughts guys! I've ordered a blue gun for an LC-9 so I can make another holster and I will try to take your collective advice to heart on that one.

 

[Horsewright]

Blue guns are great for making holsters. All my 1911 holsters are made using a blue gun. I need to get some more I guess for different guns. Yeah Weaver Leather on the clips. These two holsters were both made using a blue gun. Same customer, two different 1911's (a Kimber and a Sig) the holsters are interchangable, either gun will fit ether holster, though if a guy were to mic it the Sig is a little wider through the frame. The customer is a very active shooter and he prefers the open top holster over the one with the safety strap. It is worn daily.

Funny thing is these photos are several months apart. He does have more than one shirt. Triton if you have any questions please don't heistate to ask. You are well on your way.