my first knife

D

dustbust_1

Joined
Jun 5, 2012
Messages
57
specs:
0-1
1/8" width
3.5" tip to ricaso
7.5" overall
supposed to be a scandi grind but its about 1/2 the blade high which we will now call a sabre with a tiny microbevel because without it just rolled. Not enough steel behind the edge.

all made with files, (I made a jig) hacksaw, and a Sh*t ton of sandpaper.



handle is made of black palm
 
That looks real good for a first knife. If I could offer a couple of suggestions: (1) it looks like you could round out the corners on the handle some more. (2) Either move the forward pin closer to the blade or add a third one in that location — it looks unbalanced as it is and I personally wouldn't trust the handle not to come lose on the front end.

- Chris
 
Curious also about the heat treat. I wouldn't think an edge like that would roll easily. Unless it was on the soft side.
 
thanks for all the positive comments. Lee Oats from bearclaw did the ht. He said its 59hc. Which i asked for 58-60.

1.I could prob round the handle more but it feels pretty good.
2. ya the pins should have been spaced better. I put them in the "meatier" part of the handle. I "roughed" the metel where I put the wood with 60 grit in a bunch of crazy patterns then used elmers glueall max which is gorilla glue with less foam (I read the glue wars and decided on a poly glue) do you still think the scales will come off with hard use?

Ill explain the edge roll if thats what happened. I did a scandi grind 1/2 way up the blade with no second bevel on 1/8" steel. When it was razor sharp I did some really deep cuts with the blade and a few spots looked bent over. I took the blade to some 600 grit sand paper and flattened them then worked back up to razor sharp the took 2000 grit and did a few swipes on each side at a diff angle and now it cuts great with no rolling.
 
I understand what you are saying now, I was under the impression you had more severe edge rolling than you just explained.
 
dustbust_1 said:
thanks for all the positive comments. Lee Oats from bearclaw did the ht. He said its 59hc. Which i asked for 58-60.

Ill explain the edge roll if thats what happened. I did a scandi grind 1/2 way up the blade with no second bevel on 1/8" steel. When it was razor sharp I did some really deep cuts with the blade and a few spots looked bent over. I took the blade to some 600 grit sand paper and flattened them then worked back up to razor sharp the took 2000 grit and did a few swipes on each side at a diff angle and now it cuts great with no rolling.
Click to expand...

I understand that, but tell us about the HT.
 
I'm not saying that the scales will come all of the way off, or even that they will get loose for sure. But through use the blade will flex and that will put stress on the epoxy joint on the front part of the handle. Without a pin up there to help stabilize it, you are more likely to get some separation. I completely understand what you're saying about wanting to keep the pins in the strong part of the handle, but the blade is typically the weakest part of the knife. If you were really concerned about it, you could put the pin in the spot where the handle gets wider again before the end of the scales — this part of the handle will be much stronger than the blade, even with a hole in it.

- Chris
 
The wood is black palm. Pretty tough as it likes to splinter.

Ht was with bearclaw knives. He has a website just google The name. I don't know specifics (temp, time, etc) but I sent the knife with $20 and that covers Ht (oil quench), tempering and shipment back. He was able to hit the RC I requested. Whole process took 2 weeks.

Heparus I see what your saying. Makes sense. Thanks for the insight.
 
ya, pretty certain. Scandis I own are about 1/2 the height so about twice the meat behind the edge. im only hypothesizing here as im a very early beginner. but one i put that secondary microbeval everything is re-splendid.

I am currently playing around with a mousepad and going to attempt to convex the whole bevel so i can skip the secondary micro
 
I found a mouse pad a little thick when making a sanding stick for a convex grind. The two materials that I thought gave the best feel and most control were a doubled over "shamwow" and what I am currently using, craft foam sheets with an adhesive back. I think they are 1.5-2mm thick. The foam will tear up however so longer term I plan to use a Great Planes aluminum sanding block with a piece of suede or 7-8 oz leather strip.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top