Manoucher,
I got my first khukuri when I was twelve years old. I ordered it from Doon Steelworks in Dehradun India. They sent it by sea mail and it took over a year to get to me. It cost all of $6.50 post paid. Still, it was a beautiful, well made knife, though more for show than work - but it did work.
I had owned a coulple of Indian made "issue" khukuris also but didn't get the "real" thing" until I ordered a 20" ang khola from Uncle Bill. Then I was lost. I had been training with and using swords for some years prior to that and had never had a khukuri equal to the fine blades I was used to. Ounce for ounce, pound for pound, the khukuri will outcut any falchion, broadsword, or saber style blade. It's elegant, straightforward design belies it's sophistication. An understanding of it's making will be very helpful in understanding how best to use it. I refer you the the FAQ link. Briefly though, the blade is hardest at the optimum area of percussion, which is located where the "belly" of the blade is. The edge gets softer gradually towards to point, and rearwards toward the cho (the cut-out near the handle). The spine is soft, and the tang is dead soft. this knowlege alone tells you a lot about how to use it - the point area for low to medium density targets, the optimum area of percussion for heavy cutting, the edge rearwards toward the cho also for low to medium density media and to initiate slicing/cutting actions. Please don't ask about the cho - all I know is that it aids in keeping viscous fliuds from running down on to the handle, is useful in grappling for disengages, and very importantly - the kami's don't consider it a khukuri without it. From an engineering standpoint everything about these knives is well concieved, practiced, and directed towards a tool that will not fail under the widest range of employment. When choosing a new khukuri, I would suggest a design that will allow you the use of many of the techniques and forms you may be already be familiar with. For me that was the UBE, which because of it's weight distribution, on-line point, and additional edge at the tip, allowed me to utilize previous training. The UBE along with a more traditional Nepalese style is a good start. All in all, you are in good hands with Uncle Bill, and the great end-user/research resource that all the exceptional people in this fine forum provide doesn't hurt either.
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"To Know and to Act are One"