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Great job, looks like it'll be a useful knife. Let us know how she performs after the heat treat.
Looks great! If it were mine I would slim down the handles a bit more, more oval in shape, but you might have bigger hands than I. PLus, handles are always easy to shape. Very cool!
Connor
Love this thread, thanks for the inspiration. Going to try & make a knife within the next few months when I can get a grinder. Will start out with better belts, thanks for the heads up on the Harbor Freight ones!
I'd take one with a green canvas micarta handle.![]()
Do not use water or a wet blade on your 3m belts if they are Trizact.
The grit will just shed and you will waste the belt. If you need water to cool the blade, make sure to dry it before you hit the belt again.
I am also looking forward to your updates.
Well, I got the blade back from Peters Heat Treat, cleaned it up, and finished it. So far, I'm really liking it. It hasn't seen any hard use yet, but it will in the future. I am somewhat concerned about how tough the blade will be. I didn't really do much thinking about what hardness to request from Peters, and said 63-64. They went with 64. It is certainly hard as all hell. Sandpaper is essentially useless. I'm glad I had already sanded it to an acceptable finish before sending it in, because grinding off the scale was about all I could do. I didn't feel like eating up a bunch more belts, so I just left the grind as is.
The steel seems great so far. It cuts very aggressively, and hasn't lost any of its edge yet. This steel is incredibly wear resistant. Not only did I about kill myself trying to sand out some deep scratches, but it also ruined a Lansky extra coarse diamond hone. That hone has reprofiled hundreds of blades of all different kinds of steels. It was probably down to about 60% before I started sharpening this knife. For whatever reason, I decided to go straight to the Lansky, and not put any edge on it with the belt sander. That was a mistake. Despite the edge only being about 0.018", it took forever, and like I said, killed the hone. However, it did sharpen up nicely. I achieved a razor edge much easier than S90V.
I made a kydex sheath for it last night, which was my first time messing with kydex. It was super simple, and really makes me wonder why there are high end knife makers that don't supply sheaths with their knives. That's just crap. As easy and cheap as it was to make this sheath, those makers should be ashamed. Anyway, here are some finished pictures:
Here's a sneak peak at the next few. I have enough CPM 20CV to make about 7-10 knives, depending on the size. The top one, that looks like a KABAR is for my cousin who's in the Marines. He wanted a modern version of the KABAR, so I'm making it full-tang with green canvas micarta handles. I think it will turn out pretty cool. The smaller two are likely for me as a carry fixed blade. I like the the little Wharncliffe came out, but the other one I screwed up the plunge on the grind. I wanted to do an angled plunge, but messed up. Good learning experiences.
Even though it has no green canvas micarta and it's not residing in my Jeep it's still a nice knife, it'll be much better in green canvas micarta and riding in my Jeep.![]()
Nice looking knives.
On the one going to your cousin, hit those inside corners with a chainsaw file to round them. Those sharp 90° corners can create a location for stress risers to propagate.
And see if the top guard would be more comfortable as a thumb ramp on the handle side.
I am glad to see that you are learning from your experiences and that you are actually planning on using your knives and see what they (and you) are capable of.
Congratulations on your knives. I would ask about the pricing at peters, I believe they charge per blade under 4, and bulk 4-20. So if you make a bunch, you will save a bit of coin.