My first puukko handle

Joined
May 23, 2017
Messages
13
http://imgur.com/a/fM5hY

This is probably nothing compared to what you guys do, but for my first knife project, I'm proud of my results, although in heavy need of improvement!

For this, I used unstabilized Redwood Lace Burl from old lumber stock leftover from the 1800's, a Vikstrom Carbon Steel Blade, Nickelsilver Bolster, and Black/Green Spacers.

I made many mistakes here, my first being stabbing myself with a rasp because I got thought bare hands were better for grip. They were, but not worth the amount of blood that poured from my hand! :o

Other major mistake was over-filing my bolster. This was the most aggravating part for me. My diamond files barely did anything, then my steel file shaved off too much. Luckily I had two bolsters for fitting. The second try I made too small, but was afraid of oversizing again, so I set the blade firmly in a medium hard wood and got copper pipe and hammered the bolster to the base of the blade.
This was probably not a good idea and I would like advice on better ways to fit the bolster to a hidden tang.

I discovered the hard way how messy pine tar is too when making my mixture of 40% Pine tar, 20% Pine Turpentine, and 40% Chinese/tung Oil. Don't wear your nice shorts while working with it :-)

I also made no measurements or drawings for this project. Everything was done by eyeing and feeling what felt right. Is this an unwise approach?

Thanks all,
Krister
 
I am also new to making knives. Your knife looks great to me. It takes practice and a lot of messing up and learning from the mistakes from what I can tell.
 
http://imgur.com/a/fM5hY

This is probably nothing compared to what you guys do, but for my first knife project, I'm proud of my results, although in heavy need of improvement!

For this, I used unstabilized Redwood Lace Burl from old lumber stock leftover from the 1800's, a Vikstrom Carbon Steel Blade, Nickelsilver Bolster, and Black/Green Spacers.

I made many mistakes here, my first being stabbing myself with a rasp because I got thought bare hands were better for grip. They were, but not worth the amount of blood that poured from my hand! :eek:

Other major mistake was over-filing my bolster. This was the most aggravating part for me. My diamond files barely did anything, then my steel file shaved off too much. Luckily I had two bolsters for fitting. The second try I made too small, but was afraid of oversizing again, so I set the blade firmly in a medium hard wood and got copper pipe and hammered the bolster to the base of the blade.
This was probably not a good idea and I would like advice on better ways to fit the bolster to a hidden tang.

I discovered the hard way how messy pine tar is too when making my mixture of 40% Pine tar, 20% Pine Turpentine, and 40% Chinese/tung Oil. Don't wear your nice shorts while working with it :)

I also made no measurements or drawings for this project. Everything was done by eyeing and feeling what felt right. Is this an unwise approach?

Thanks all,
Krister

Looks nice! Unstabalized redwood isnt the best material, if you want you can send me an email to the email in my sig line. I do boxes of wood meant for hidden tangs that work great.
 
Congrats on your first knife. The handle is a bit too fat, and shaped a bit different than a puuko, but it should be something to be proud of completing.
 
Looks good from here.
Fitting bolsters is fiddely, careful measuring and layout helps. But its trial & error to fitting it tight. It will become easier with experience.
I always file the bolster backside oversize, but tight fit where the gaps are exposed to see. It gives some degree of angular play when fitting and when it begins to get tight, forcing it on that final .5mm is easy.
Fwiw, I never make drawings either.
Just envision what I want the knife to turn out like and build it.

Btw, interesting pictures. Those woodtar & 'turps containers european, but the lock hardware in the background looks like the cheesy crap common in N.America.
 
well done first attempt. nice handle clamping jig too. your question about fitting the bolster/guard. carefully get it to slide up the tang with files 1/8" from where you want it to be. then take it off, color the inside of the slot with a magic marker, or blacken it with the soot from a candle (they use the candle method to fit rifle stocks) and push it up the tang as far as it will go with your fingers and wiggle it. remove it, and with a needle files, only file the spots where the color is worn off. repeat the process until the guard/bolster slides up tight to where you want it to be. i personally do not use the method of making the back of the guards wider so it fits easier, because it becomes less mechanically solid, even if it is soldered.
 
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