- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 7,035
The Leaner Meaner would be a good choice, but my choice is the BAD
For the "Busses are too thick, and the grind is too obtuse" crowd:
The BAD (Boney Active Duty), starts at .125" thick at the scales and tapers all the way to the point. It's a full flat grind with a secondary bevel. While it's one of the few Busses that you're told NOT to pry with, I'm convinced they mean don't pry metal. I had no trouble drilling holes, popping out notches, etc in WOOD.
Knock the shoulders off the secondary bevel and sharpen a while by hand and you'll have a full flat grind with a convex secondary bevel which, IMO, is the best geometry out there, and in my hands, works as well as a Scandi in wood, and better than a Scandi in meat.
Combine a BAD with a Bushwhacker and a proper hawk, and you have a light package of tools that can do just about everything.


For the "Busses are too thick, and the grind is too obtuse" crowd:
The BAD (Boney Active Duty), starts at .125" thick at the scales and tapers all the way to the point. It's a full flat grind with a secondary bevel. While it's one of the few Busses that you're told NOT to pry with, I'm convinced they mean don't pry metal. I had no trouble drilling holes, popping out notches, etc in WOOD.
Knock the shoulders off the secondary bevel and sharpen a while by hand and you'll have a full flat grind with a convex secondary bevel which, IMO, is the best geometry out there, and in my hands, works as well as a Scandi in wood, and better than a Scandi in meat.
Combine a BAD with a Bushwhacker and a proper hawk, and you have a light package of tools that can do just about everything.
