My knife design, is it plausible?

J

jamesp

Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
9
Hi guys,
I was wondering, do any of you think my design is plausible? And if so, what do you think it would cost me to have this commissioned by someone?
Thanks,
James
 
Something like that could cost you around $175.00 to $2,000+ depending upon what specifics you wanted and what maker you went with.

They would probably have some thoughts about the best way for your "dream knife" to become reality.

Nice drawing, BTW.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Hi again,
Here is a bigger picture.
Thanks
b1c0ff9cfe.png
 
Looks like a nice design, blade looks like some scagels I've seen. Lots of great makers on here so I'm sure it can become a reality for you.
 
Looks nice. If I were you I'd get rid of the "belly" of the blade though. Unless you have a specific use in mind, it's useless and will turn the handle in your hand in case of hard use (think torque and leverage).
 
You might want to list the blade length and thickness, type of steel, the finish and type of wood you want. That will help you get a more accurate estimate.
-John
 
Okay, i would say between 5-7 inches for the blade, cocobolo wood, 440c steel mirror finish, full tang. Also ill have to look at the "belly", I didnt put it in for any reason, just thought it looked nice, but if it's going to cause problems I would change it.
thanks for the replies
 
Based on a rought estimate of the scale of your drawing, if the handle is 4.5 to 5" long then the blade should be about 7" to keep the scale of the drawing. I would recommend CPM 154 CM steel over the 440C. I suggest a thickness of 5/32" to 3/16". I would als recommend using 416 stainless for the bolsters. I'd cut out a little of the belly new the ricasso and leave a little recurve to it. Based on that you would be looking at a minimum of $300 to $350. My $.02.
 
Barker said:
Based on that
you would be looking at a minimum of $300 to $350. My $.02.
Click to expand...

Appreciate that Reggie, but that price would probably be from you, right?

Well, there are some part timers that would do it for 1/2 that, and there are some guys who have been around for a while as well that would start out at $1,000.....that's why I gave the range.

Jamesp, if Reggie is offering to make this for you , you should take him up on it. Would be a danged fine chopper.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Ok, Ive taken away some of the belly, but keep in mind i did this right now so it might not be perfect. Anything that i would need to change now to make the knife practical?
7f52b87883.png
 
Hi Ed,
Do you have a picture of his knife, or a link to where i can find one? I just googled him, but his website isnt working...
Thanks
Oh and Reggie/Barker?, thanks for the input. If I decide to make this Knife, i will go with you, your price seems very fair.
 
Nice drawing. My first thought was also that the blade shape looked vert "Scagelesque" I would go with a little more wood and a little less stainless. Make the bolster and buttcap a little thinner. I would also consider only using 2 pins. But if you insist on 4, then I would line them up parallel with the trhasitions betwen the wood and metal. If you like that color of wood, then ironwood or some of the burl woods would probably be a good woods to look at.(too many wood/woulds in that sentence...lol)
 
jdm61 said:
Nice drawing. My first thought was also that the blade shape looked vert "Scagelesque" I would go with a little more wood and a little less stainless. Make the bolster and buttcap a little thinner. I would also consider only using 2 pins. But if you insist on 4, then I would line them up parallel with the trhasitions betwen the wood and metal. If you like that color of wood, then ironwood or some of the burl woods would probably be a good woods to look at.(too many wood/woulds in that sentence...lol)
Click to expand...

That's about just what I was thinking. Especially the two pins, better yet one in the center (mosaic might be nice).
Cut the bolster and pummel down quite a bit and soften the curvature of such.
Hand rub satin finish the blade grinds and mirror polish the blade flats.

Reduce the belly a little more and taper toward the point as the blade needs a more sleeker profile. Less campy, as you have the makings of a dangerious looking fighter there.

Rich high grain Ironwood or Cocobolo would be excellent choices for handle material.

All just my opinion, of course.
 
The reprofiled blade together with Joe's suggestions for the handle and fittings should result in an absolute winner.

Maybe post it over in the knifemakers' forums and invite quotes from willing makers?

Good luck.

Roger
 
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