My latest:sheepsfoot/wharncliff utility

Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
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Blade is a little over 4" long, about 8.5" overall length. 1/8" thick 440C, black linen micarta scales, bronze pins, brass tubing.
This is a pattern I had made a few of in a smaller size, about 7.5" overall. A customer asked me to make a bigger one, so I scaled it all up a little bit then tweaked a few things to make it fit my hand still.
The sheath is heavy duty,.090" kydex with 3 layers so the the clip is inlaid inside the sheath as well as being riveted on.

So what do you think?
More importantly, I'm thinking of shrinking the whole package, sheath and all, to have a knife 5-6" OAL with the intention carrying it in a back pocket. I'd probably switch to thinner micarta for the scales to make it slimmer overall too. Any interest in a set up like this? Maybe a similar style but a clip point?
Thanks for looking, I appreciate any comments.
 
I like the file work along the spine, kinda cool.

It does look like a kitchen knife to me though. Scaled down for emergancy tomatoe slicing! :p

Looks good.
 
:D
When I made the first one it was on a whim. Was making a batch of 3-4 paring knives and thought I'd change the blade up on one. The guy that bought it, and eventually ordered this one uses it on his sailboat though. Don't know if he's usin it on tomatoes or not :confused:

Glad you like the filework.Thats pretty standard on my knives now, using it as my makers mark. If I'm going to do other filework on the spine I just put it on the other side of the tang, sometimes frame it with a vine pattern or something.
Thanks for lookin
 
Nice work, Matt. I recently made one very very similar in profile. I can tell you they make great working knives. Yup, a variation with a drop point or clip point would be a nice option. The handle shape would also be good for those who cut with the blade facing up and the thumb in the groove. The handles look like a nice comfortable thickness to me, but many with a "tactical" bent like quite thin handle slabs. Jason.
 
Thanks Jason
I used to do the thin handle thing myself but now I save that for folders. The difference in feel you get by adding another 1/4" is amazing. I'm sure you know what I mean. If I scale it down I probably would go with thin scales though just to facilitate the pocket carry idea.


I just re read my first post and the last but sounded like a sales pitch, I really was just asking in the sense of "good idea?....bad idea?" Not "who wants to buy one?" So if anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate them :)
 
This is among the best user blade shapes there is. Doesn't have that flash bang tactical look but O that wharncliffe is solid and won't flex. I actually prefer the pointier whatncliffe to stab those damn plastic blister paks
hahahaha

Real Nice Work!
Tom
I also like the filework. I overlooked it first go round.
 
Let me add a Q on the sheath. Why do you have three layers?
I like the idea of the pocket model clip point.
The sheath looks bulky for in pocket carry and that's a great way to carry a 6 in OAL.

Not a dis but quick thoughts :)
Tom
 
Sheath is 3 layers to make the clip more secure. I don't like just having the one rivet through the bottom because it will twist very easily.
So there is a layer on either side of the knife and then one more layer that the clip is inset in. Overall it only adds about .01"-.02" to the thickness and really beefs up the whole package. And that way there are no rivets or anything in contact with the knife.
The sheath is a little wider than I like but thats cause I'm not very good with kydex and it always makes the sheath too tight if I try to get the rivets too close to the knife :grumpy:

On the smaller version I think I'd use a narow clip and mount it beside the knife so the sheath isn't really any thicker than the knife. Would add to the width, but thats not too big deal for pocket carry is it? As long as its under 2" or so wide?

Oh yeah, I like a pointier blade too but don't have the guts to grind it much lower on these. Blade has a little bit of a distal taper and with the hollow grind the lower you drop the point the thinner it gets. Something I'll have to work on :D

Thanks for the suggestions, they're a lot of help for designing the next one :D
 
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