My Lite machete edge looks bad...

It'll be super simple to fix--it's literally just a resharpening job! :)
 
Edited my prev post.
My photographic skills arent that goodbut its the best i can make of it for now. Maybe some better shot during the day tomorrow
 
interesting. hopefully shotgunner11 is right and it won't happen again. i've chopped with my lite machete through some hard wood that are 5" in diameter with no damage. i've beaten the crap out of it hacking away at 2" limbs two weeks ago i think on a hike and i only managed to get one tiny spot to roll. 5 min of sharpening took it right out. good luck and let us know if it keeps on happening.
 
Really depends on machete design what it's primary uses are, where it shines efficiently and where it has trouble. I figure a light machete like this would be more at home processing wet woods and green stuff, although it should be able to easily handle light chopping of hard woods. The Lansky Puck is becoming my preferred machete sharpening tool, it's very efficient and easy and costs all of 6 dollars. I wouldn't really use an abrasive daimond on softer high carbon steel, especially with an edge this fine. working it over with a soft stone should round out those small chips and turn it into useable edge again.
 
I find that a coarse/fine DMT Diafold does a fantastic job on machetes, especially those with a Condor-style convex. :):thumbup:
 
I used this one to shape up the edge;
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=product.detail&productID=3030
Buck%20Portable%20Diamond%20Sharpening%20System%20-%20bu1336.jpg

But its a bit to rough imo, even the 'fine' side. Thinking of getting something like a diamond or ceramic rod, pencil style and a Spydy Double Stuff
 
I don't get it where were these chips? or were those all after shots? :D
 
The first is the before shot, with the crappy red lighting. It is hard to see, but its on the belly. I did got most of it out now. Its not as sharp as the rest of the edge though.
 
Just the natural variation caused by free-handing. Besides, the biggest benefit of a convex on a machete is the smooth and shoulder-less transition of geometry. :)
 
That too. :p

Just got a 1x30 and some Lee Valley sharpening belts. Haven't had the chance to try it out yet.
 
I was always under the impression that a powertool would screwup the hardness of a blade.
Are dedicated sanders run at low speed?
 
basb said:
I was always under the impression that a powertool would screwup the hardness of a blade.
Are dedicated sanders run at low speed?
Click to expand...

richstag said:
You just have to know what you are doing:)
Click to expand...

I do all my bigger blades and even some of my smaller ones on a 1" x 30".

As long as your only doing single passes at a time and not letting the blade dwell for any ammount of time your fine. I also touch the blade edge after each pass to guage the temp. Now this is just for resharpening and light reprofiling and the final edge I always do by hand with a stone.
 
I do all my knives large and small on my 1SM. Finish with a leather belt and compounds. Once I got really good at it I couldn't see doing it any other way. :)
 
I have been a machete man for decades...I don't think I ever saw my dad swing an axe. If it took more than a machete...chainsaw time.

I have two Collins Legitimus machetes and I have never used anything but a file on them. No need to. Yep, the edges get to looking bad pretty quick. IMHO, you view the edge of your machete in a different light than you knives.

I think your LM is probably just fine...it'll shed some steel over the years but it'll out last you probably...those two Collins outlasted the old man and they'll outlast me.
 
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