my mark is wiping off after etch

[phorizt]

I just got my first etcher and have been practicing on an 1084 blade trying to get my etching process down right before I try on any finished knives. The problem I'm having is that the etch is fine but the mark wipes right off when I go to wipe off the moisture after removing the stencil. I can wipe it off with a dry finger if I rub it. I tried a bunch of times on the 1084 blade and never could get it to work properly. I switched to test it on an old SS kitchen knife blade and tried twice and got two very nice clean etches and the mark doesn't wipe off. Everything else is constant. Equipment cleaned. Etch area clean. Voltage of etcher checked. New TUS stencils. I'm not sure what the solution is since it came unmarked with the etcher(either 94 or 110) but would solution cause the mark to not hold? The SS blade did have more of a mirror polish while the 1084 blade was a VF scotchbrite satin finish but I don't know why that would have any impact on the mark.

Anyone have this issue before or know what might be causing it? Thanks.


Aaron

 

[AVigil]

Double check you have the leads correct

Red to blade

Black to pad

 

[phorizt]

yep. did that.

I literally etched the O1 blade and it wiped off. Disconnected everything and switched to the SS blade with same exact setup, etch time, mark time etc and it worked perfectly. Switched back to O1 and fail again. I thought I just really sucked at etching until I tried the SS kitchen knife and it worked fine on the first time.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I find just about any etchant to work on whatever... but it sounds like your solution. Try using salty water just to see, it will work in a pinch.

Clean the knife again too, wash it at least twice with a toothbrush and soapy water. Residual quench oil?

 

[tryppyr]

You haven't given much information about the process you are using.

What type of etcher have you got? How much time are you using it in Etch, and how much time in Mark mode? What type of contact do you use (e.g. Q-tip, etching pad, sponge mop, et al)?

I use a Personalizer and generally give it 45 seconds in Etch mode, followed by 40 seconds in Mark mode.

 

[phorizt]

I made a mistake in my initial post. It's 1084 that I'm having trouble with and not O1.

I'm using the Atlas Knife etcher. electrolyte 94 solution. Using q-tips for now(graphite to make pad is in the mail).

I'm following the directions given in this video. The etch and mark process aren't very long but it works fine on the SS blade. I tested voltage and it's about 16-17 on etch and 12 on mark:
[video=youtube;0oRzhbd8NTo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oRzhbd8NTo[/video]

below is the etch I get on the SS kitchen blade that I tried. 4 tries. 4 really nice crisp marks that don't wipe off. All 4 better than anything I've gotten on the 1084 blade in a couple of dozen tries now at least. 1084 mark is typically not as clear although a few have looked pretty good but then I can wipe the off when I wipe off the electrolyte solution. I even put a satin finish on the SS blade and etched over it so that I was etching the same finish and it turned out just fine.

 

[AVigil]

I have that etcher and made a carbon pad and it works much better. I did use a qtip for a long time though and what I did is 5 one second taps on each part until I covered the entire logo.

I did it 5 more times

It leaves a descent depth etch.

Then I move to Mark and hold down the button and swipe about 20 times

Work good, but it works much better with a graphite block