My Military arrived today but...

The Deacon said:
+1 on it being operator malfunction.

Paul
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Thank you for pointing out the correct way to open my knife (I'm not being sarcastic or anything). I have one last question to ask. Does the blade move to one side easier than the other side on your millies?
 
yes, and that is the way it should be
the knife stays closed via the ball detent; pushing the blade towards the locking side 'sinks' the liner completely inside the handle so you can open the blade
pushing the blade towards the non-locking side does absolutely nothing, as you have only solid G10 there
 
I don't think the amount of force used is relevant
it boils down to 2 simple facts: when applying pressure the liner moves, solid G10 does not
now the issue with the blade movement being affected by the lack of the clip is quite curious, I'll check my black digi camo and get back with a report later
 
brj said:
I don't think the amount of force used is relevant
it boils down to 2 simple facts: when applying pressure the liner moves, solid G10 does not
now the issue with the blade movement being affected by the lack of the clip is quite curious, I'll check my black digi camo and get back with a report later
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Ah I see :)
The clip issue is indeed odd and it makes absolutley no sense why blade movement is affected by the clip, but I am eager to see report on it.
 
Herr_Noobien said:
Ah I see :)
The clip issue is indeed odd and it makes absolutley no sense why blade movement is affected by the clip, but I am eager to see report on it.
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The screws for the clip screw into the steel liner that holds the pivot screw, so the screws not being in there could potentially affect blade play.
 
Did you try to adjust the pivot screw AFTER removing the clip screws? Something looks wrong with that gap between the washer and the liner on one of your pictures...
 
LorenzoL said:
Did you try to adjust the pivot screw AFTER removing the clip screws? Something looks wrong with that gap between the washer and the liner on one of your pictures...
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That's the source of the problem. However, tightening the pivot enough to fix the problem off centers the blade so much that a very soft nudge will make touch the liner (it becomes easier to move the blade up agaisn the liner than before).
I might just use the knife without the clip (Tip down isn't my favourite carry config anyway).
 
I wonder if the clip screws are perhaps a tiny bit long, and their inside ends might be sticking out through the liner and hitting the washer? Does that space on the clip-side of the pivot decrease if you remove the clip screws when the pivot is tight?

I noticed that with my FRN D4 wave. The clip screws were a MM or 2 too long and their tips were grating on the washers when carried tip-down. It also put lateral force on the pivot, and could be why the blade goes off to the side when you tighten the pivot with clip-screws in. I filed the D4 screws down a bit, and no prob after that.

If you're game to take the thing apart and have a look, reassemble just the G10+liner on the clip side, along with the clip, etc, and have a look if the tips of the screws stick out past the metal liner.
 
jylong_away said:
I wonder if the clip screws are perhaps a tiny bit long, and their inside ends might be sticking out through the liner and hitting the washer? Does that space on the clip-side of the pivot decrease if you remove the clip screws when the pivot is tight?

I noticed that with my FRN D4 wave. The clip screws were a MM or 2 too long and their tips were grating on the washers when carried tip-down. It also put lateral force on the pivot, and could be why the blade goes off to the side when you tighten the pivot with clip-screws in. I filed the D4 screws down a bit, and no prob after that.

If you're game to take the thing apart and have a look, reassemble just the G10+liner on the clip side, along with the clip, etc, and have a look if the tips of the screws stick out past the metal liner.
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My thought exactly. If it is so, either he could get shorter screws or he could grind the excess off on a coarse benchstone.
 
100eyes said:
That gap in the washer definitely shouldn't be there.

Contact Spyderco about it first, they'll normally void your warranty for taking it apart.
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No, they void the warranty if you take it apart and cause damage.
 
My harmonic balance with spyderco has been restored! All in took was a bit of loctite, a T10 driver and 15min. Basically all I did was mess around with the pivot tightness for a while and I managed to get it so that the book I used before barely moves the blade (same method as before). The gap between the scales and the washers is gone, blade is centered and the pivot is just right (not too flickable but still deploys like an auto :D)

What surprised me was that you can adjust the pivot with a torx T10 (since I lost my 3/36 allen key)
 
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