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My new Frankenmanix!

omenwolf said:
Mine With some Putnam scales.
DSCN3899.jpg
Click to expand...

Damn, making me want to get scales for mine. Looks great. I like the paracord as well.
 
I didn't find any disassembly/assembly vids on YT for the Manix 2 LWs, I'm interested in the re-assembly part and what is needed. I've heard that you only have to drill out the stop pin rivet, and you can pry open the scales enough to get the blade out.

NJBillK said:
Drill out all of the pins taking care not to damage the frn, if you wish to reuse them with the s30v, or donor knives steel. Aside from the s110v blade, you will use everything from the g10 body, the pivot, hardware, spring, liners, bearing and carrier (though you can use the black one from the s110v lw manix 2 if you would prefer that over the clear).
I believe there are disassembly/reassembly vids on YouTube. Though if you are in any way mechanically inclined, you shouldn't need to watch them.
Good luck and keep us informed.
Click to expand...
 
You can, though the majority of those doing this would then have a spare blade, considering that the frn will likely snap. It doesn't stand up well to deflection.

But if you aren't going to use it, feel free to do so (or Not as it were, :thumbup: ). Just make sure that the blade is secured. You don't want that coming loose while a torsional load is placed on its housing.

Remember: the pivot is seated in the frn so you will have to clear those lips, and they are also seated in the figure 8 liners, which the other end is held in place by the stop pin.

And I am Really digging those scales, I just would like a set in something other than the hexagonal pattern currently available.
 
That's the thing. I want to get a G10 donor and do the transplant but want 2 functional knives in the end. Someone here has done exactly that, and he said all he had to do was drill out the stop pin. I didn't find where he got the hardware to replace it though.
 
Frn doesn't bend that well, it is likely that it will crack and once it does, it is not salvageable. It is a composite, not a plastic, so it cannot be welded... I would locate the hardware first, then purchase a set AND THEN do the swap since it sounds like you don't want to wait that long to have both functional.

If it does crack by you trying to save time, you will end up spending more time and money waiting on finding another body, or selling just the blade... Just remove them all and go it the safe way.

Clamp down your frn so it won't move, use a drill press if available, use a center punch to set the initial mark, then drill a way too small diameter pilot hole, then increase and GO SLOW!
 
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