my newest(and best so far) loveless style drop point

S

scubasteve4sq

Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
141
i still need to improve my fit and finish but overall im very pleased with the results!


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Overall the shape, tapers, and workmanship look very good. The main problem is it is as square as it can be. The handle has no roundness at all. and the guard has no sweep.
Just a tad of rounding on the finger protector of the guard and handle would make a nice knife into a wow knife.

Look at this photos of Loveless hunters and see what I am talking about.
http://www.knifepurveyor.com/bob_loveless_amber_stag_drop_point_hunter_knife_1524.aspx
 
If you ever get a chance to go to the Blade Show in Atlanta, there is a purveyor there every year near the front door with a nice spread of Loveless knives. He's happy to let you handle them. I go by his table every year for an education.
 
The shape of your handle is just fine. It is often how Corbet Sigman did his handles on drop point hunters and rather famous maker in his time.

It also is the shape of the handles on many folders.

I would not change a thing. Your work is clean and the fit and finish will only improve.

Well done


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I agree the knife is very nice. The flat sides are not the problem. Bob Loveless made many of his with rather flat sides.

What I was commenting on can be seen in the photo from Adam compared to the OP photos. Notice how Adam rounded the edges onto the spine and belly, and has a slight rounding into the finger guard. It especially shows in the very flat and straight belly of the OP ( second photo). This tiny difference is very obvious to the eye.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
...Notice how Adam rounded the edges onto the spine and belly, and has a slight rounding into the finger guard. It especially shows in the very flat and straight belly of the OP ( second photo). This tiny difference is very obvious to the eye.
Click to expand...

But apparently that legendary maker's mark/style not so much ... pls forgive me Stacy. :)

Steve - that's a solid knife in my opinion but I definitely agree with the comments regarding rounding over the handle's edges. Also your blade appears to be flat ground; I would expect starting with thinner stock next time, but maintaining similar tapers, would result in a better cutter that is closer to the RWL originals in general proportions and balance. Finally you might consider bumping your front bolt placement forward for better visual balance. Without the thong tube, this handle style usually looks stretched to me compared to the originals (not a bad thing, just different).

Good job man! I would carry the heck out of that knife.
 
Well, he did say Loveless style so perhaps a few places to tune, but as a completed knife without that reference, it does look pretty super.
Frank
 
thanks for the feedack guys. yes i chose flat grind even though loveless was always hollow. i much prefer a full flat grind. i have been considering doing some more work on the guard. i agree it needs more sweep from the handle. and my next oe will have more curves as it will be a thicker handle overall.
 
also the nickel silver guard must have been a little heavy on brass and light on nickel in the alloy because its very yellow compared to what im used to.
 
Scuba,

Think about narrowing that tang even more you can take it quite thin and it will give you more room for handle work.
 
things i am proud of with this knife that are marked improvements for me personally:

clean even grind lines resulting in a nice distal taper.
tapered tang with no gaps between tang and handle
no gaps on handle and guard, clean silver solder joint.
kickass sheath in progress :-)
 
avigil i agree 100% i was worried about warping but i think i could go thin after heat treat as long as i keep it cool, the next one will be much thinner for sure
 
A few years back, person experienced in things Loveless told me that the trick for really nailing a Loveless knife is the VERY deep hollow grind. That is the same as with Moran knives and their VERY shallow convex grind. As for the handle shape when views from top, I like to say that Bob Loveless used less of a Coke bottle shape and more of a Michelob bottle one.
 
i know the hollow grind is central to the loveless design, its the one area where i disagree with his "philosophy" ive made both, honestly hollow grinds come easier to me but i really like the way a full flat(saber no secondary) cuts. it just works better for me and i like the ease of sharpening.
 
if i were selling knives to a customer i would probably do a hollow grind. they most likely would'nt want to mar the side bevels with the stones when sharpening, and a secondary bevel on a flat grind will get thicker and thicker unless you remove material from the whole side. its easy for me to refinish the sides after sharpening because i have the equipment.
 
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