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My novice axe restoration (ongoing)

N

newsasquatch

Joined
May 4, 2013
Messages
241
After viewing a thread on here started by Killa_concept about his keen Kutter jersey, I looked on the auction-site-that-we-must'nt-say-its-name (here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SIN...NG-TOOL-/141216262924?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276 ) and found one for what I think is a good deal. When I recieved it, it looked like this

I then soaked it in a vinegar bath, followed by an antacid scrub-down consisting of ammonia and baking soda, and it looked like this

I then REALLLLLY wanted it "blued" but not a by applying a a gun bluing solution. I wanted it blued with a layer of black oxide on it. I found a hot bluing technique on this thread: http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/16456-Rust-bluing-A-tutorial
I did this technique and it came out like this


I think the reason it didn't turn out as uniformly black as the ones in the tutorial is because I scrubbed it afterward with a toothbrush--effectively removing some of the black oxide that was a bit loose, making the non-tempered part less black. If anyone reading this wants it more uniform just don't scrub it afterward-just oil it. But I actually like the black beard its grown! Forgive me for the bad pics. I'll post some better ones in sunlight. Now it's time to sharpen and hang it!!!
 
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Solid work mate! I actually like the color you have on there right now. I just never bothered oxidizing mine since it tend to wear quickly with use - especially when you find yourself having to remove stuck on sap and gunk off the face of your axe like is the case in my neck of the woods.

Also, you're pretty lucky - that axe has a really good flat edge and plenty of tempered steel. Should be a joy to restore and will have a lot of life left in it! From the first picture, it's also pretty apparent that it has a nice high centerline. Did you have a top-down picture by any chance? I'd love to see the overall blade profile on the thing.

It's a shame that 32" handles are near impossible to find locally as I'd bet you'd find that a great haft length if you were able to test it out. Have to go to the likes of House handles for that. My local Ace hardware actually has a pretty good selection of Link handles, but it goes from 14" hatchets to 28" boys axes to full on 36" handles. No luck on anything in between.
 
Thanks! I like the color too. I hope it doesn't look too uneven after a lot of use but whatever. I'll include a top-down pic when I can snap a pic in daytime. Yeah it actually looks like whoever had it must have never sharpened it or at least did a very good job sharpening it. I'm gonna make a trip down to Loews and handle some different axe lengths to make a decision on a handle length. I know a dealer who sells some pretty good 32" handles but I also know of a dealer who can get me a 36" velvicut handle for about $25 so if I go with that length then I'm golden!
 
Btw, I don't have experience using an axe yet, but in theory, wiping down an axe head with isopropyl alchohol should take off the sap without taking off the oxidation, but I havent tried it yet so we'll see.
 
The darker shade of black on your axe head's bit appears to be the temper line of the axe. The darker portion is the amount of the blade that is tempered for hardness, whereas the lighter portion is left a softer metal for durability. This lets you know exactly how much head you have left to sharpen before you're out of hard steel. Hint: it's a lot.
 
Gonna be a NICE cutting axe. The profile and cheeks are very nice, just needs the hang and a little bit of file and stone work on the bit. Keep us updated.
 
Yeah I'm definitely digging the profile on that axe. A good high centerline and the bit seems just the right thickness. Put a nice banana grind on it and hang it on a handle that feels right for you and I'd wager it'll stay one of your go-to axes even after you build up a nice collection (which you will - trust me).
 
Looks great! Very fine axe. Give it a good grind and a good handle and you will have an absolutely first rate axe.

Do you have a way to clamp it securely for filing? I always like to finish the edge before I hang the axe but that's because I file in the vise. If you're going to file it clamped to your bench then it might be best to hang it first and then clamp the handle for filing.

RE: handles. Whether you're going with a curved or straight handle pick one with a good grain and a large swell. Then thin it down to 13/16" or 3/4" thick in the grip area. Make the transition from grip to swell abrupt so the swell really catches in the heel of your palm. That will give you better control and a much easier grip for extended sessions of bucking or felling. Safer, too.
 
newsasquatch said:
I think the reason it didn't turn out as uniformly black as the ones in the tutorial is because I scrubbed it afterward with a toothbrush--effectively removing some of the black oxide that was a bit loose, making the non-tempered part less black. If anyone reading this wants it more uniform just don't scrub it afterward-just oil it. But I actually like the black beard its grown! Forgive me for the bad pics. I'll post some better ones in sunlight. Now it's time to sharpen and hang it!!!
Click to expand...

I've played around with slow rust bluing a bit and you need really meticulous surface prep to get an even finish ie. ground clean and really thoroughly degreased.
 
Bridger said:
I've played around with slow rust bluing a bit and you need really meticulous surface prep to get an even finish ie. ground clean and really thoroughly degreased.
Click to expand...
I cleaned it with a toothbrush and dawn, followed by alcohol, and even wore latex gloves that were frequently switched out. I think I should have kept it in longer. But I'm actually really happy with this, I like seeing the darker edge in contrast to the rest of the axe. I'll likely do it longer next time to a different axe.

Square_peg said:
Looks great! Very fine axe. Give it a good grind and a good handle and you will have an absolutely first rate axe.

Do you have a way to clamp it securely for filing? I always like to finish the edge before I hang the axe but that's because I file in the vise. If you're going to file it clamped to your bench then it might be best to hang it first and then clamp the handle for filing.

RE: handles. Whether you're going with a curved or straight handle pick one with a good grain and a large swell. Then thin it down to 13/16" or 3/4" thick in the grip area. Make the transition from grip to swell abrupt so the swell really catches in the heel of your palm. That will give you better control and a much easier grip for extended sessions of bucking or felling. Safer, too.
Click to expand...
I actually don't have a vice, I live in an apartment without a balcony even. I might by some portable vices that I can attach to a table at my apt. I like your tip about the handle, I'll do that when I get a chance, I've been swamped with school lately. Thanks for the advice.

killa_concept said:
Yeah I'm definitely digging the profile on that axe. A good high centerline and the bit seems just the right thickness. Put a nice banana grind on it and hang it on a handle that feels right for you and I'd wager it'll stay one of your go-to axes even after you build up a nice collection (which you will - trust me).
Click to expand...

Yeah if it weren't for you I wouldn't even have searched this axe on ebay, It'll definitely be one of my go to axes, I want a Norlund now, and a true temper kelly perfect that has a ton of surface rust so I can get a better deal lol.
 
I'm genuinely envious of your find there. It's a beautiful head. It's too bad your so short of workspace. If you do get a portable vice you might just take it to a public campground and make use of a picnic table. I was lucky enough as a student to rent a room in a house that had a tiny shed in it's tiny yard where I was able to make a tiny workbench.

One of the (only) great things about being stationed at Ft Hood TX was that they had a community shop. Just like a community library except you could check out tools and they had huge table saws and band saws and drill presses all set up and even if you lived in a little apartment (or barracks room) you could go down there and work on a project and make use of all these great tools. I've not seen a community shop anywhere else but what a wonderful thing it would be if every town had a place where folks who don't have the space or money for a workspace at home could have a place to go and work with their hands and make something. Even now that I do have a little shop to tinker in I'd love to have access to the acre sized table saws, planers, joiners, etc at the Ft. Hood shop.
 
Thanks man, I live in Los Angeles county. Theres this cool website called Meetup.com where like minded people get together. It would be great if someone created a meet-up where people could all get together and work on knives and axes. I've checked, it doesn't exist. Wish I have what you had. Good idea about the park bench, I might try that. Thanks for the compliments on the head, I feel lucky to have found it.
 
Damn, I finally got around to hanging this thing on a 36 inch handle. I still have to cut off part of the top that's sticking out.

 
I wouldn't be in a hurry to trim the end of the handle flush with the head. Whatever wood is left sticking out is uncompressed by either the wedge or the head and ought therefore to make a better lock and also be cheap insurance against ever having a head fly off.
By the way you did a really nice job of reclaiming and rehafting that old girl.
 
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