My Ruixin Pro Sharpener

Interesting. Was going to go with a Ruixin but opted to get a set of King Waterstones instead and learn to freehand. From my readings and research there's value in both freehanding and systems. I'd love to hear more about your mods and set up. Post pics of your work!
 
Fool me three times... or third time's a charm? The short answer… neither fooled nor charmed, but the “3rd gen.” clone is, at this point, the only clone I’d consider purchasing.

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So, I got the third clone referenced in this thread... (the one in the center)...

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I will say, of the three different models, this would be the only one I’d even consider. For the most part, it’s done a pretty good job of duplicating the “ergonomics” of the original. The only “design flaw” I noted off the bat was, they didn’t make the rear stabilizing rod quite long enough to cover the entire length of the angle rod, but it’s close enough I don’t think it’s a big deal. The “fit and finish” seemed decent, especially for the price.

I do think (on mine anyway), the pivot the stone rod goes thru is a bit too loose… it can be dealt with, but replacing it with a better design like fvdk did, would be my recommendation… (the looseness could be an issue for someone who doesn’t want to put any time or effort into learning to deal with it or replace it).

Quality is about what you’d expect at this price. I do try to use these clones “as is” when I get them, to see how they perform. However, I discovered a problem with mine that I had to fix in order to use it…

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The base is simply molded plastic, and as you can see the obvious problem in the picture… I could not tighten the base enough to keep it from slipping. So, I had to fix it… a small piece of a non-slip pad inserted in the base of the pivot seemed to do the trick. (The suction base OTOH, did a remarkable job of holding on a variety of surfaces).

Doing a few knives… no major issues cropped up. Still not impressed with the stones that come with it… but were “good enough” to test the system on some inexpensive knives. I had hoped to try the inexpensive diamond stones, but my order appears to have fallen off the ship from China… it seems to be lost.

Obviously can’t say how it will hold up over time, (which was an issue with the 1st clone I tried)… so, can’t really say I’d recommend it, but, like I said above, the only clone at this point I’d even consider. The 1st gen. has a number of issues, and the 2nd “all metal” gen. has so many issues, I wouldn’t consider it at all. I still think the quality of the original Edge Pro is worth the investment… over time it will pay for itself, but of the clones, this is the best of the ones I’ve tried to date… and should do the job… at least getting your foot in the door of the sharpening world, (especially if you get some better stones). ;)



Edit to add: Guess I 'de-jinxed'? myself... about an hour after I wrote this, the diamond stones got delivered... so I'll try them out. (Did note one was warped... but looks useable).
 
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I still think the quality of the original Edge Pro is worth the investment… over time it will pay for itself, but of the clones, this is the best of the ones I’ve tried to date… and should do the job… at least getting your foot in the door of the sharpening world, (especially if you get some better stones). ;)

I do of course agree that the original Edge Pro is of better quality but I also think it has some design flaws and that the price is far to high for what you get.

The quality of this clone is certainly not perfect but I do think that for $30.99 shipped, it is amazing value and like you say, it will at least get your foot in the door of the sharpening world. So far I am still pretty happy with mine.
 
I do of course agree that the original Edge Pro is of better quality but I also think it has some design flaws and that the price is far to high for what you get.

The quality of this clone is certainly not perfect but I do think that for $30.99 shipped, it is amazing value and like you say, it will at least get your foot in the door of the sharpening world. So far I am still pretty happy with mine.

Yeah... can't argue that. Although, I'm not entirely sure I like the replacement you used for the pivot... it would seem to introduce a 'side to side' difference since the pivot is no longer centered in relationship to the blade table. Do you have to adjust for this? (Seems it would be more of a difference than the difference in the pivot design you've noted before in the original Apex).

I did note that most of the "looseness" in the generic pivot is where it attaches to the rod. I put a washer and drill stop collar underneath it, and eliminated the looseness almost entirely...

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... not the most elegant solution, but one I had readily available. (The washer allows the pivot to rotate freely).

I tried the diamond stones... not really enough to form an opinion... but seemed to work without any issues.
 
Yeah... can't argue that. Although, I'm not entirely sure I like the replacement you used for the pivot... it would seem to introduce a 'side to side' difference since the pivot is no longer centered in relationship to the blade table. Do you have to adjust for this? (Seems it would be more of a difference than the difference in the pivot design you've noted before in the original Apex).

No, it does not introduce a side-to-side difference because as long as the pivot is anywhere on the line that is parallel to the edge of the knife (pivot base line, the whole line is one side of the triangle), the angle does not change so side-to-side movement makes no difference. With EP on the other hand, the pivot rotates around the pole moving the pivot base line closer or further to the knife edge.

I put a washer and drill stop collar underneath it, and eliminated the looseness almost entirely...

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... not the most elegant solution, but one I had readily available. (The washer allows the pivot to rotate freely).

Nice solution.
 
No, it does not introduce a side-to-side difference because as long as the pivot is anywhere on the line that is parallel to the edge of the knife (pivot base line, the whole line is one side of the triangle), the angle does not change so side-to-side movement makes no difference. With EP on the other hand, the pivot rotates around the pole moving the pivot base line closer or further to the knife edge.

Ah, yeah... should've specified... I was thinking the belly to tip area... not the straight part. On most knives I tend to set it in one place and not move it, flip it over and repeat. Was thinking I might have to adjust for the offset in the belly/tip area.

By chance... did you ever measure the angle difference that is introduced in the original Apex design? Just curious how much it is.
 
Ah, yeah... should've specified... I was thinking the belly to tip area... not the straight part. On most knives I tend to set it in one place and not move it, flip it over and repeat. Was thinking I might have to adjust for the offset in the belly/tip area.

I see, than you are indeed correct that it will change.

By chance... did you ever measure the angle difference that is introduced in the original Apex design? Just curious how much it is.

I did but I can not find that posting again so I did some new calculations to give an indication http://www.trianglecalculator.net/

With a distance from 190mm from the pivot base line to the edge of the knife and assuming that offset of the pivot point while rotating around the pivot pole, makes the pivot point change roughly from 5mm behind the pole to 5mm in front of the pole (distance a in the calculation) while swinging from left to right, the distance to the edge of the knife changes from 185 to 195mm

At 190mm:

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At 185mm:

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At 195mm:

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So in this example, the angle would change from 17.97 degrees to 17.10 degrees from heel to tip on one side of the knife and 17.10 to 17.97 from heel to tip on the other side of the knife.

That being said, this would of course only be the case if the knife stays in place the whole time during sharpening. If you keep moving the blade and limit the stone movement to the width of the table as Ben recommends, than it does not apply.
 
Hello here is my upgrades of Ruixin Pro Angle Knife Sharpener II upgrade, improvement, fix

 
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Today i sharpened kitchen knife Tescoma azza on Ruixin Pro mod.

Results:
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I'm very happy :applause:
 
Quick bump on this thread because I've just splashed out on one of these. Going to use it for resetting bevels, and for some other stuff. I fully expect to make modifications, I only consider the original parts as a starting point.
 
I've ditched the ball joint and suction mount, too wobbly in my opinion. My bench doesn't have a smooth enough surface for the sucker to work anyway. So I've replaced that rig with a wooden base that fixes the table at 15 degrees. Progress so far ...

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Still to come, the rose joint conversion for the swivel as shown by previous poster. Some sort of repeatable stops for the height adjuster - still turning over ideas for that. Stops for the sliding rod, at the moment I'm thinking bits of fuel pipe retained by pipe clips to give "soft" end stops. Need to source a short bit of 8mm rod for the riser, something not too hard for me to cut the thread.
 
Looks good... you put some nice features in your stand.

One other thing I found... as the stones wear, the plastic starts to bend, and the stone will either crack or pop off. So, if nothing else, consider getting a strip of aluminum, make some blanks, and remount your stones... or look at the (better) stone alternatives.
 
Looks good... you put some nice features in your stand.

One other thing I found... as the stones wear, the plastic starts to bend, and the stone will either crack or pop off. So, if nothing else, consider getting a strip of aluminum, make some blanks, and remount your stones... or look at the (better) stone alternatives.

Dang dude, you use that much pressure? I can see the stone popping off because they use crap glue but breaking because you're pushing so hard the stone cracks and the plastic backing bends?
 
Dang dude, you use that much pressure? I can see the stone popping off because they use crap glue but breaking because you're pushing so hard the stone cracks and the plastic backing bends?

It has nothing to do with sharpening pressure. The stones apparently provide strength to the plastic, so when it thins out, the plastic can bend. Or, maybe it just becomes noticeable when it's thin. (It doesn't take a lot to crack a stone... especially when it gets thin). I had it happen when changing stones. Either way, the flex of the plastic is the issue.

I'm sure the cheap glue contributes to them "popping off" easier.... I think I mentioned earlier, I had to reglue some right out of the package.
 
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