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My Scout Axe Find
- Thread starter IROC-Z28
- Start date
Thanks Rix, did I overpay in your opinion?
For an antique shop no not really.
I see them at flea markets a lot, prices go from $20 to $35. Condition is everything and yours is pretty nice with original wood and sheath. Most important to me is no one took yours to a grinder.
I own three, each one a different stamp version, none were as complete as yours or the exact stamping as yours. I paid $15, $25 and the oldest almost like yours (mine has the PLUMB down below the Boy Scout mark) was pretty ugly I paid $3 for it but it did clean up nicely though. The one had a replacement handle that I paid $15 for. The $25 one is all original but no sheath.
I would be happy with yours for $30, it will clean up nice and it's all there and original.
Edited to correct a mistake. I was thinking there are three different stampings, but I see I was wrong, there's at least 4, maybe more.
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Anyone know how many different ways these were stamped?
I know of four but I'm betting there could be more.
I'll go out and see if I can get good pictures of my three in the shop but the lighting isn't real good at night for photography, might have to wait until tomorrow.
I know of four but I'm betting there could be more.
I'll go out and see if I can get good pictures of my three in the shop but the lighting isn't real good at night for photography, might have to wait until tomorrow.
Here's my three.
I thought this was the oldest stamping version but a few old posts in the forum say the one like IROC-Z28's is the 1911-1929 version. Were they made before 1911? If anyone is wondering about the color of this one...I'll explain. It was really rusted, soaked it in apple vinegar and scrubbed it a few times while soaking with a brass brush. When I rinsed it in water it had this brass looking color to it. I was going to use a wire wheel on it to make it steel colored again but decided to leave as it is. I'm curious as to how it will look after some time.
Anyway, here it is. It looks like the stamp was never very deep and it was badly rusted so it's a bit hard to see, this is the best I could do for a pic.
The other two.
I thought this was the oldest stamping version but a few old posts in the forum say the one like IROC-Z28's is the 1911-1929 version. Were they made before 1911? If anyone is wondering about the color of this one...I'll explain. It was really rusted, soaked it in apple vinegar and scrubbed it a few times while soaking with a brass brush. When I rinsed it in water it had this brass looking color to it. I was going to use a wire wheel on it to make it steel colored again but decided to leave as it is. I'm curious as to how it will look after some time.
Anyway, here it is. It looks like the stamp was never very deep and it was badly rusted so it's a bit hard to see, this is the best I could do for a pic.
The other two.
Well I must say these forums are sure educational for me. I thought I knew more about these hatchets than I did before this evening.
I said above that the one that IROC-Z28 posted is the 1911-1928 version and that may be correct. But after some googling I found a few thing to confuse me.
Here's a 1925 Boy Life magazine page showing a Plumb Boy Scout hatchet.
https://books.google.com/books?id=XdC8TpxoRHMC&pg=PA2&dq=plumb+boy+scout+axe&hl=en&sa=X&ei=S49eU9mYL4umyATW0oKADw&ved=0CEgQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=plumb%20boy%20scout%20axe&f=false
And here's a 1936 page that shows one like IROC's and one like my third picture. IROC's is called "Official Boy Scout Axe" and mine is called a "Voyageur" with the Boy Scout logo.
https://books.google.com/books?id=m_7XltzVxYsC&pg=PA33&dq=plumb+boy+scout+hatchet&hl=en&sa=X&ei=NJNeU76WDoiiyASstoCwAw&ved=0CEcQ6AEwATgK#v=onepage&q=plumb%20boy%20scout%20hatchet&f=false
I have no problem admitting when I'm wrong as long as I learn from my mistakes. I think I was wrong on the date IROC-Z28, but I'm learning more about these tonight. Sorry about that.
I'm not the only one saying IROC's is a 1911-1929 version;
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1055969-how-old-is-this-plumb-boyscout-hatchet
I have not found another stamped like the first one I posted...yet.
I said above that the one that IROC-Z28 posted is the 1911-1928 version and that may be correct. But after some googling I found a few thing to confuse me.
Here's a 1925 Boy Life magazine page showing a Plumb Boy Scout hatchet.
https://books.google.com/books?id=XdC8TpxoRHMC&pg=PA2&dq=plumb+boy+scout+axe&hl=en&sa=X&ei=S49eU9mYL4umyATW0oKADw&ved=0CEgQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=plumb%20boy%20scout%20axe&f=false
And here's a 1936 page that shows one like IROC's and one like my third picture. IROC's is called "Official Boy Scout Axe" and mine is called a "Voyageur" with the Boy Scout logo.
https://books.google.com/books?id=m_7XltzVxYsC&pg=PA33&dq=plumb+boy+scout+hatchet&hl=en&sa=X&ei=NJNeU76WDoiiyASstoCwAw&ved=0CEcQ6AEwATgK#v=onepage&q=plumb%20boy%20scout%20hatchet&f=false
I have no problem admitting when I'm wrong as long as I learn from my mistakes. I think I was wrong on the date IROC-Z28, but I'm learning more about these tonight. Sorry about that.
I'm not the only one saying IROC's is a 1911-1929 version;
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1055969-how-old-is-this-plumb-boyscout-hatchet
I have not found another stamped like the first one I posted...yet.
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I posted more info and some links but a Mod must look at it first before it is posted here. ??? I'm guessing here, I'm new and posted links?
I need to correct something in the post that isn't posted yet.
Alright, it's posted now. Disregard this post.
I need to correct something in the post that isn't posted yet.
Alright, it's posted now. Disregard this post.
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IROC Looks nice and retrievable. Soaking the head in a bucket of vinegar for a day or two will clear away the rust (as will more specific solutions, such as Evapo-Rust).
The sheath however is toast and should be replaced if you want to use the ax. (I have a 70+ year old sheath for a WW2 Cattaraugus 225Q knife that's in not-bad shape for its age, but it's too fragile to serve any more as a sheath. Because the knife's in great shape and I intend to use it, I had a replica sheath made. It's the best course to take in such a situation.)
If you want to save the sheath for historicity? sentiment? a lingering itch to be a museum curator? you can clean it gently, then work in mink oil, warmed with a hair dryer. Be patient, better to use a bunch of thinner coats than one big thick one. How far to take it is up to you!
The sheath however is toast and should be replaced if you want to use the ax. (I have a 70+ year old sheath for a WW2 Cattaraugus 225Q knife that's in not-bad shape for its age, but it's too fragile to serve any more as a sheath. Because the knife's in great shape and I intend to use it, I had a replica sheath made. It's the best course to take in such a situation.)
If you want to save the sheath for historicity? sentiment? a lingering itch to be a museum curator? you can clean it gently, then work in mink oil, warmed with a hair dryer. Be patient, better to use a bunch of thinner coats than one big thick one. How far to take it is up to you!
Thanks for the great info BeeBee. The sheath is most certainly tired as can be. To soak the head I would have to removed it. Is that risky? In other words would I potentially break the handle removing the head? I am assuming the head would have to be removed because soaking it as one would raise the mc of the handle quite high and cause the fibers to be crushed against the head itself due to the pressures of expansion leaving a loose head when the mc did finally drop after drying.