My second knife.

S

Sharpe5097

Joined
Mar 2, 2017
Messages
316
Don't be kind. I need to learn.




rfvsz
 
I like it. For what purpose was this knife built? Kitchen, edc, hunter? I ask because of the conspicuously absent plunge line, which is fine. A knife doesn't HAVE TO have a plunge line. It's just that plungeless blades tend to be seen more on kitchen knives. The proportions of the knife are nice. The shape of the blade is nice. The fact that the tip comes to a real sharp point is nice.

Some things could use a little refinement next time. The finish on the blade could be sanded flatter and with a more consistent finish, meaning a bit more care could have been taken. The front of the handle scales is flat and kinda kills the "flow" of the knife. There is also some kind of dye or discoloration there which doesn't look great. The placement of the handle pins seems a bit random due to the one closest to the lanyard hole being off centerline. Speaking of which, I would have moved the lanyard hole inboard a touch more. That thin section of wood between the hole and the butt is just begging to chip or crack. And while the handle looks comfortable enough it's still rather blocky. A bit more rounding at the corners would go a long way to giving the handle a more ergonomic feel and finished look.

It may sound like a lot of criticism but, honestly, it's a very nice knife ad a good effort.
 
i4Marc said:
I like it. For what purpose was this knife built? Kitchen, edc, hunter? I ask because of the conspicuously absent plunge line, which is fine. A knife doesn't HAVE TO have a plunge line. It's just that plungeless blades tend to be seen more on kitchen knives. The proportions of the knife are nice. The shape of the blade is nice. The fact that the tip comes to a real sharp point is nice.

Some things could use a little refinement next time. The finish on the blade could be sanded flatter and with a more consistent finish, meaning a bit more care could have been taken. The front of the handle scales is flat and kinda kills the "flow" of the knife. There is also some kind of dye or discoloration there which doesn't look great. The placement of the handle pins seems a bit random due to the one closest to the lanyard hole being off centerline. Speaking of which, I would have moved the lanyard hole inboard a touch more. That thin section of wood between the hole and the butt is just begging to chip or crack. And while the handle looks comfortable enough it's still rather blocky. A bit more rounding at the corners would go a long way to giving the handle a more ergonomic feel and finished look.

It may sound like a lot of criticism but, honestly, it's a very nice knife ad a good effort.
Click to expand...
Awesome that's what I want. How do i round the handle, sand flatter, and the black is the epoxy and metal shavings from sanding blade
 
Hey Sharpe, as far as sanding goes, look on YouTube for Nick Wheeler's Hand Sanding 101 video series. Watch that and copy his moves! It'll save you tons of time and effort.
 
The handle is longer, because my son wanted the handle longer after I had already cut the steel, so I put a piece of wood between the scales to fill the space. That's y the pins look off
 
Like I said, no NEED to put in a plunge line. It's a style thing mostly, I think. To round the handle more just sand more of a radius around the profile edges. To sand flatter use a hard sanding block with a FLAT surface to wrap your sandpaper around. The block/stick can be made from many different materials. Use what is convenient for you.
 
Finish the blade 100% before attaching the scales, also finish and polish the fronts of the scales before glue up. You don't want to do any more sanding on the blade once the handle is on.
After gluing and pinning use alcohol to clean any squeeze out from the blade and front of the scales.
Good job.
 
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