My Second Re-Handle

joejeweler said:
The only thing I'm thinking about doing different is using a pin for the locking bar to go all the way through the stag, anticipating the day the spring breaks or the locking bar pivot wears out. With the stainless steel locking bar pin still accessible, that could be removed to service other worn out or broken items. Probably not for a long time,....but you never know.
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I just looked through all my factory Buck stag and ivory folding knives and only found three that Buck brought the rocker rivet through the stag. Those three are two pre-1986 Buck 303's and one late 1980's Buck 309.
Not one of my other factory stag or ivory knives have the rocker rivet brought through….whether the scales are pinned or not.

I just noticed this today and remembered your comment here. I thought it was interesting.
 
Stumps said:
I just looked through all my factory Buck stag and ivory folding knives and only found three that Buck brought the rocker rivet through the stag. Those three are two pre-1986 Buck 303's and one late 1980's Buck 309.
Not one of my other factory stag or ivory knives have the rocker rivet brought through….whether the scales are pinned or not.

I just noticed this today and remembered your comment here. I thought it was interesting.
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I think that on knives intended to be used regularly, having the stag pinned on thru the rocker rivit (at least) is a much more practical design. This would allow for any repairs down the line without ruining the fitted stag that was epoxied on. (Or ruining the knife itself trying to get the stag OFF)

Most of the ivory or custom stag "collectable" knives will never reside in a pocket or garner regular use, so not as important to consider ever having to get them apart! ;)

Just my feeling on it, YMMV :D
 
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Joe….I understand your reasoning and it makes sense.

I do buy some factory stag folding knives intending not to use them. I buy quite a few intending to put them to work though.

My thoughts on it are that I used the same Buck 110 for 25 years in construction (Macassar Ebony handle) and retired that knife. I believe I replaced the sheath three times over those years, but the 110 kept on working. There is nothing else I own that I used for so many years and used it so hard.
I guess I'm just not worried about repairing one of my stag users after my experience with that 1970's Buck 110.
Buck must not be worried about it either…and that was my point when I could find only three of my Buck folders with factory stag and a rocker rivet running through the stag. That's a very low percentage.
A blade can still be replaced easily no matter how the stag is installed.
I know there are knives that won't see use, but there are plenty that see regular use with stag covers. The very first custom Buck 110 I ordered with stag came to me and I put it to use right away.
Buck moved away from the first 301's in a hurry because they were hard to repair a blade. They have been building stag folders for over 35 years and are still producing them. They must think they are okay.
 
Stumps said:
Joe….I understand your reasoning and it makes sense.

I do buy some factory stag folding knives intending not to use them. I buy quite a few intending to put them to work though.

My thoughts on it are that I used the same Buck 110 for 25 years in construction (Macassar Ebony handle) and retired that knife. I believe I replaced the sheath three times over those years, but the 110 kept on working. There is nothing else I own that I used for so many years and used it so hard.
I guess I'm just not worried about repairing one of my stag users after my experience with that 1970's Buck 110.
Buck must not be worried about it either…and that was my point when I could find only three of my Buck folders with factory stag and a rocker rivet running through the stag. That's a very low percentage.
A blade can still be replaced easily no matter how the stag is installed.
I know there are knives that won't see use, but there are plenty that see regular use with stag covers. The very first custom Buck 110 I ordered with stag came to me and I put it to use right away.
Buck moved away from the first 301's in a hurry because they were hard to repair a blade. They have been building stag folders for over 35 years and are still producing them. They must think they are okay.
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I hear ya my "BB" (Buck-Brother :D ) And I do tend to over think a lot of things, just the way I'm wired.

That said :rolleyes:,....I still may do my 1st stag re-handle including the rocker rivet,......OR.......as I have seen done on a few of my Billy Watson 4" hand forged 1095 carbon steel fixed blades (with his signature & neat forged in hilt!),......undercutting the bolsters and have the stag ends SLIDE right in and locked by a lock bar rivet. That's pretty cool, and just the single pivot rivet would lock in the stag securely I'd think.

Here's a few pics of a few of my Billy Watson blades with a front bolster,....and you can see the undercutting a bit:





This is the 2 dot 112 (and NO finger groove that I NEVER use anyway! :D ) that I'm thinking of using for my first stag re-handle, once I make an undercutting triangular file. (1 side sanded smooth that won't cut "down", just out to the side) I haven't decided for sure yet though which way to go. Tapered in bolsters will certainly complicate fitting a bit initially, but I think a very secure handle without needing epoxy.

In the end I may hide the lock bar rocker pivot under the slabs, but drill thru the stag at the 2 original handle securing holes. (drill one side at a time from behind once the tapered ends are fitted and a single slab is in position) That way the slabs slide in, and are secured with just glued in brass pins that can easily be drilled out should the need arise to ever disassemble.



These prime sambar stag scales look wonderful !!!



A pic of just a few of the forged Watson blades,......the forged in hilt appeals to me a LOT! :cool:
5" Blade on Top,...the others are 4" Eastern Hunter blade lengths.



.....surprised we don't see more forged in hilts,....but I suspect it's tough to get right! Anyway, the idea is to basically undercut BOTH sides of my 2 dot 112 frame bolsters like on these single front bolster undercuts, and have the soon to be tapered edges of my stag slabs......S L I D E right in, and kept in place with 2 epoxied in pins on each side.

 
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Hey Stumps,

Couple questions about your re-handle operation:

What grit are you running on that sanding nelly to get the wood/metal fit?

I saw you said use white compound with stag. Which green compound do you normally use? Is it the .3 micron? What wheel(s) do you load it in to buff out the sanding marks?

Thanks!
 
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