My spyderco ladybug in v g10 always dull?

BURR. With VG-10 especially, on Spyderco blades, this is classic burr behavior.

I've never had much luck trying to strip them off in wood, the steel is too ductile & hangs on tenaciously, even when thin. Better to very, very gently file them away under feather-light pressure. Do this with the medium rods, and keep checking cutting performance every 2 or 3 passes as you work.

Stropping on hard-backed paper, such as paper glued to hardwood, and using some black/white compound also works well to remove burrs like these on VG-10.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
BURR. With VG-10 especially, on Spyderco blades, this is classic burr behavior.

I've never had much luck trying to strip them off in wood, the steel is too ductile & hangs on tenaciously, even when thin. Better to very, very gently file them away under feather-light pressure. Do this with the medium rods, and keep checking cutting performance every 2 or 3 passes as you work.

Stropping on hard-backed paper, such as paper glued to hardwood, and using some black/white compound also works well to remove burrs like these on VG-10.


David
Click to expand...

When removing burrs with the stones how do you it? Same way as sharpening or do you go backwards or hold the blade at some kind of angle?
 
american21 said:
When removing burrs with the stones how do you it? Same way as sharpening or do you go backwards or hold the blade at some kind of angle?
Click to expand...

If using ceramics like the SM's rods, and especially on VG-10, a slightly elevated angle (wider than the sharpening angle) with very, very light edge-leading strokes gets it done. Use the FLATS of the SM's rods only, to reduce the contact pressure. Do this on the side the burr leans toward, and check & re-check cutting every couple of strokes. If in doubt about which side it's leaning to, it'll feel a bit 'sharper' on the side to which the burr is leaning, when checking with your fingertips. Patience is key; if you rush or lean into it with just a little too much pressure, it just multiplies the problems by making existing burrs bigger, or creating new ones.

With ceramic hones, the main goal in sharpening and cleaning up edges is to absolutely minimize the pressure used. If that's well-controlled, you'll create burrs less often, and less large, and whatever's left will be much easier to clean up.


David
 
Last edited:
Obsessed with Edges said:
If using ceramics like the SM's rods, and especially on VG-10, a slightly elevated angle (wider than the sharpening angle) with very, very light edge-leading strokes gets it done. Use the FLATS of the SM's rods only, to reduce the contact pressure. Do this on the side the burr leans toward, and check & re-check cutting every couple of strokes. If in doubt about which side it's leaning to, it'll feel a bit 'sharper' on the side to which the burr is leaning, when checking with your fingertips. Patience is key; if you rush or lean into it with just a little too much pressure, it just multiplies the problems by making existing burrs bigger, or creating new ones.


David
Click to expand...

So hold it away from the stone? instead of straight like normal?
 
Yeah pine is good , just pull the blade through the endgrain really lightly .
Its counterintuative but can work supprisingly well .
 
My ladybug had a similar issue! I sharpened it twice within a couple of weeks of owning it with very light use. However, now it holds a nice edge for a long time. Perhaps on both of our knives the very edge got overheated during grinding but by sharpening the bad part off it fixed the problem.
 
I use a piece of hardwood to make draw cuts in when I'm trying to get rid of stubborn burrs. Actually I make a habit of it when going from one grit to another.

I knock the burr down and make a leading edge cut into the stone on the side of the burr. I learned this technique with years of sharpening AUS-8A. I've always found the wire burr it makes to be very annoying.
 
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