My Squatch Rusted!

Horn Dog

Horn Dog

Joined
Sep 9, 2005
Messages
4,363
I have never had a Busse to rust, and I stripped all of them. But my 2008 Blade Special Edition Sarsquatch CE sure did. I think I read something a while back about carbides? or some such on the surface causing this. Today when I pulled it out of its kydex sheath for some comparison photos...Aargh!:eek:
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Thank God for Scotchbrite. I did mess up the markings in the process, though. You'll notice that my customized Bowie version that was once a Sarsquatch CG is still nice and shiny. Now I guess I'll have some serious sanding to do.
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Those Scotchbrite wheels are great for those of us who occaionally do stupid things like not putting a protectant on our blades before storing them. :o
 
Horn Dog said:
Those Scotchbrite wheels are great for those of us who occaionally do stupid things like not putting a protectant on our blades before storing them. :o
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Nice, looks sweet!:eek: When you say scotchbrite wheel do you mean the paddle wheel type for a drill? or the disc type for a die grinder/buffer? And if its the die grinder/buffer type how did you do it without any swirls?
 
I used a 1/2" thick Scotchbrite wheel on my 1/2" arbor bench grinder and buffed the blade with the edge of it. The scratches run vertically on the blade the same as the original grind marks.
 
Ok, I can visualize it now. Interesting info., thanks.:D
 
I have looked for the Scotch-brite wheels at my local Mc-Hardwares (Lowes, Home Depot) but did not see them. Are they carried by these national chains? Is there a better online source? I have a Koster Bushcrafter that I'd like to shine up like the above Sarsquatch.

As for the CF versions, the edges are nice, but the tendency to rust is not. I only owned one, a Hell Razor, and I sold it. Since they were the same price as the coated versions, I've always just preferred the coating.

Horn Dog, yours looks very nice after the Scotch-brite treatment though. I'll bet that you've removed the carbides that cause the rusting. I'd put a coat of mineral oil or some Tuff Glide on that blade and use it hard.
 
Guyon said:
I have looked for the Scotch-brite wheels at my local Mc-Hardwares (Lowes, Home Depot) but did not see them. Are they carried by these national chains? Is there a better online source? I have a Koster Bushcrafter that I'd like to shine up like the above Sarsquatch.

As for the CF versions, the edges are nice, but the tendency to rust is not. I only owned one, a Hell Razor, and I sold it. Since they were the same price as the coated versions, I've always just preferred the coating.

Horn Dog, yours looks very nice after the Scotch-brite treatment though. I'll bet that you've removed the carbides that cause the rusting. I'd put a coat of mineral oil or some Tuff Glide on that blade and use it hard.
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I found my wheels at MSC/J&L Metal Working on line. They are at mscjlmetalworking.com. I used the medium and then the fine. I may sand the INFI smooth. In any case, yes, I put some oil on the blade this time. :D
 
Guyon said:
I I'll bet that you've removed the carbides that cause the rusting.
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I recall from previous threads on this subject it is the decarburized layer that leads to rusting. Decarb happens in the Heat Treat, as carbon is burned out of the surface skin of the steel.

Horn Dog, tell us more about that Bowie version you did. :thumbup::cool: Did the clip have to be that long to get rid of the swedge?
 
Guyon said:
I have looked for the Scotch-brite wheels at my local Mc-Hardwares (Lowes, Home Depot) but did not see them. Are they carried by these national chains? Is there a better online source? I have a Koster Bushcrafter that I'd like to shine up like the above Sarsquatch.

As for the CF versions, the edges are nice, but the tendency to rust is not. I only owned one, a Hell Razor, and I sold it. Since they were the same price as the coated versions, I've always just preferred the coating.

Horn Dog, yours looks very nice after the Scotch-brite treatment though. I'll bet that you've removed the carbides that cause the rusting. I'd put a coat of mineral oil or some Tuff Glide on that blade and use it hard.
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I had the same problem trying to find the scotch-brite wheels in Texas. No luck at the big box stores, but I finally found them at ACE hardware stores. It looks like they have some in TN. Happy hunting...
 
I found the (brown) disc version at WalMart. I later picked up the flap-wheel model at an industrial hardware store, but found it to be too aggressive.
 
resinguy said:
I recall from previous threads on this subject it is the decarburized layer that leads to rusting. Decarb happens in the Heat Treat, as carbon is burned out of the surface skin of the steel.

Horn Dog, tell us more about that Bowie version you did. :thumbup::cool: Did the clip have to be that long to get rid of the swedge?
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No, I just thought it looked better with a long swedge.

Decarb, that's what I was trying to remember. Thanks for refreshing my memory. That makes more sense than carbides. It must just be nearly pure iron to rust so readily, if the carbon is burned off.
 
Horn Dog said:
No, I just thought it looked better with a long swedge.

Decarb, that's what I was trying to remember. Thanks for refreshing my memory. That makes more sense than carbides. It must just be nearly pure iron to rust so readily, if the carbon is burned off.
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Folks are saying that the coating, sage in particular, is tougher on the newer knives than on the older knives. My guess is that it has something to do with the decarb. Maybe it makes the coating more adhesive to the blade. :confused:
 
I think I'll just leave my Squatch rough and ugly as Jerry intended CE versions to be. It still cuts great. :D
 
A rusty Squatch is never a good thing HD. :grumpy: It sure looks better now! :thumbup: Thanks for the pics.
 
I used my CE SARsquatch over the weekend and was curious to see if the decarb would rust or not - so far, 2 days and nothing.

Back in November I took my CE Satin Jack out and it got wet, wiped off, and put back in the sheath and it had rust on it within 45 minutes.

It's just surface due to the decarb layer and works off relatively easy but I lost the logos on the CE Satin Jack. The CE SARsquatch is ok so far.

Check these two threads:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=572366

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=574151
 
Jerry said that one of the ways you could sort the problem out is by bead blasting a D/C finish on the CE knives....I might do this on my Jackhammer but it has such a great edge on it which is lost on the bead blasting that I have left it so far.

No rust yet and that is in wet old England....but one thing I did do as I could'nt get a hold of a Scotch Brite wheel was give it a good scrubbing with a Brillo Oven Cleaner pad...the combination of the wire wool and that pink stuff seemed to do it a world of good...it came up great!:thumbup:
 
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